How to access spare tire on Dodge pickup?

Land-roamer

Advanced Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2010
Messages
85
Location
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
I am pondering a few more things related to putting my Alaskan 10 footer on my Dodge 2500, and thinking about the spare tire under the truck. I'm about to get new tires installed, and will get a 5th one as a spare underneath. Problem is: given that I need to have my tailgate down to carry the 10 footer in my 8 foot box, I won't be able to insert the spare tire tool into the hole just under the (closed) tailgate, that allows lowering and raising the spare tire using the winch.

Unless I am able to jury-rig something underneath that would allow me to lower and raise the spare from under the truck, I'm wondering how to best deal with this situation? Any suggestions? :unsure:
 

Attachments

  • ramsparehole.jpg
    ramsparehole.jpg
    44.7 KB · Views: 154
What year truck? I know I can get to mine with the tailgate down (if it was on). Its a bit more difficult but not that much.
 
Take the tailgate off is an easy one.

Hmmm, hadn't thought of that... I figured the tailgate would help support the rear of the camper so should be left on if at all possible. Well, if it comes to that, I suppose I could take it off. Thanks for the suggestion. ;)

What year truck? I know I can get to mine with the tailgate down (if it was on). Its a bit more difficult but not that much.

Sorry, I should have pointed out my Dodge is a 96 (second generation). The 2004 must be setup differently, because there is NO WAY I can lower the spare with the tailgate down.
 
Hmmm, hadn't thought of that... I figured the tailgate would help support the rear of the camper so should be left on if at all possible. Well, if it comes to that, I suppose I could take it off. Thanks for the suggestion. ;)


I'm guessing you have an 8' bed with this 10' camper? For starters I'd bet Alaskan designed it to hang off and self support. Secondly I personally don't think truck manufacturers design their tailgates to intentionally support possible dynamic loads during normal travel (verse loading/unloading). I'm sure they won't readily fail under normal circumstances but their entire support strength is through two cables (which can corrode and snap) back to the top of the truck bed sides, none of that says "support a load off me" in my mind even though some people do it.

The cables on my coworker's 99' dodge tailgate just recently snapped when three people were sitting on it, the jacket had cracked and the cables inside corroded out. It folded his tailgate it the bumper and dented it.
 
I'm guessing you have an 8' bed with this 10' camper? For starters I'd bet Alaskan designed it to hang off and self support. Secondly I personally don't think truck manufacturers design their tailgates to intentionally support possible dynamic loads during normal travel (verse loading/unloading). I'm sure they won't readily fail under normal circumstances but their entire support strength is through two cables (which can corrode and snap) back to the top of the truck bed sides, none of that says "support a load off me" in my mind even though some people do it.

The cables on my coworker's 99' dodge tailgate just recently snapped when three people were sitting on it, the jacket had cracked and the cables inside corroded out. It folded his tailgate it the bumper and dented it.

Yep, 10footer into an 8foot box. You have a point about the tailgate. I've seen other trucks with 10ft Alaskans who left the tailgate down to support the last 2 feet, but you raise a good argument for removing the tailgate. That, and the fact that it would allow me to access my spare tire, leans me very strongly in that direction!! :cool: Thanks.
 
It's free/easy to try and you can always put it back on and figure out a different spare tire access is you feel the camper isn't supported to your liking.
 
It's free/easy to try and you can always put it back on and figure out a different spare tire access is you feel the camper isn't supported to your liking.

Checked things out. Attached to the spare wire pulley is a round pipe held on by a pin, at the other end of which is the hex opening that is located just under the (closed) tailgate, in which the matching hex pipe fits in and allows turning the pulley from the outside. That round pipe could be disconnected and shortened, leaving the hex end underneath the truck (secured somehow), into which a proper hex socket could fit in and be used to lower the tire with a ratchet. That's the only way I see this working.

HOWEVER: unless someone has a good reason why the tailgate should be left on (to support the rearmost part of the Alaskan), I might take it off when I get the camper on. Someone suggested I use 10ft lengths of lumber to make the bed base for the camper, which would provide some support for the rear part I suppose.
 
Since Alaskan presumably designed it to fit in an 8 foot bed I'd find out what they might have said about the support issue.

As far as the spare tire winch access, what hits? I'm going to guess it's the handle of the tool needed to plug into that tube that you mention hitting the tailgate. Is there any easy way to extend it's shaft far enough to put the handle out aft of the camper and tailgate?
 
To close the loop on this (6 months after the fact! :)
I just moved the rod connecting to the tire winch, into the rubber piece around the licence plate (which makes it accessible by the tire lowering handle that comes with the truck. The access hole thereby sits just under the lowered tailgate, and is accessible from underneath. Simple and it works!
 
To close the loop on this (6 months after the fact! :)
I just moved the rod connecting to the tire winch, into the rubber piece around the licence plate (which makes it accessible by the tire lowering handle that comes with the truck. The access hole thereby sits just under the lowered tailgate, and is accessible from underneath. Simple and it works!


If you get a chance please take a picture.
Thank you.
 
If you get a chance please take a picture.
Thank you.

Sure, here's a couple of pics. You can see where the hex end of the spare pulley rod winds up - the original spot is the one at top right partly hidden by the lowered tailgate. THere is just enough play at the point where the rod attaches to spare pulley mechanism, to be able to move the rod and still get the cotter pin in the holes to hold in place. Does the trick!
View attachment 14227
View attachment 14228
 
If you get a chance please take a picture.
Thank you.

Sure, here's a couple of pics. You can see where the hex end of the spare pulley rod winds up - the original spot is the one at top right partly hidden by the lowered tailgate. THere is just enough play at the point where the rod attaches to spare pulley mechanism, to be able to move the rod and still get the cotter pin in the holes to hold in place. Does the trick!
dodge winch 001.jpg
dodge winch 002.jpg
 
Sure, here's a couple of pics. You can see where the hex end of the spare pulley rod winds up - the original spot is the one at top right partly hidden by the lowered tailgate. THere is just enough play at the point where the rod attaches to spare pulley mechanism, to be able to move the rod and still get the cotter pin in the holes to hold in place. Does the trick!
View attachment 14227
View attachment 14228


Nice modification!!

I just wanted to share how I have dealt with the lowered tailgate situation. My '02 RAM2500 is fairly mint--still have original tires and it passed annual state inspection today. Given the condition of my truck, I don't want to make any modifications. I am not sure when I became aware of the tailgate predicament, but for several years I have carried a 14 inch pipe wrench in the center console (elbow rest). I have tested it out by lowering the tire half way down by turning the rod shown in your second photo. I cranked it back up using the pipe wrench, as well. I have never had to use this technique in a real life situation, but I think it will work OK.

While I was getting my truck inspected today, I looked at a 2012 and it appears that the spare tire cranking tool that comes with the jack kit must be inserted deeply into the hole to meet with what felt like the male end of a 1/2 inch drive extension. The end of this square ended rod is not even visible when looking up from the pavement. It doesn't extend beyond the diameter of the spare tire. If this is truly 1/2 inch square and on the outside chance that I was rich enough to buy one of these 2012's, I would probably fabricate something that served as a 1/2 drive extension with male gender at both ends. I would carry this and a 1/2 inch ratchet in the compartment below the center elbow rest.
 
Nice modification!!

Hi IRIL,
Thanks. I had heard about the pipe wrench solution, and believe I had tried it also. But I figured that moving the rod would make it easier to lower-raise the spare. But as you say, a pipe wrench would do in a pinch, if you want to leave your truck stock. Sounds like the newer Dodges would require some other modification, I suppose automotive engineers never take into consideration that someone may need to lower their spare tire with the truck's tailgate down...

You mentioned that you still have the original tires on you 10 year old truck? You must not have much mileage on it, but even then, it might be a good idea to consider a tire replacement sooner than later, because from what I've read everywhere, tires will deteriorate with age, exposure to sun, etc.. And especially if you carry a camper on the back, I think you'd want to make sure your tires are up to the task. The tires on my truck (which I bought second-hand and only had about 60,000 miles on it - the truck that is), were only 7-8 years old (I read the date code on them) and looked solid though a bit worn in the front, but some cracking was starting to show between the treads, and I decided that the last thing I wanted to worry about was the tires, so just put new Toyo M55's on it. Not cheap but the peace of mind is worth it for me.

Cheers.
 
Back
Top Bottom