How to insulate Eagle floorpack

[CoreyTrevor]

I searched a lot but didn't find much info on my topic. I want to insulate as much of the camper as I can. I know there will always be parts of the camper that lose a lot of heat, but I think if I can do things in the areas where it's feasible all the little things will add up to a noticeable difference.

I'm going to use EPS under the floor, inside my 2x6 riser platform, because it's cheap, light, and I can keep it dry. Does anyone have advice on what to use on the rest of the exterior plywood? It needs to be able to get wet and not absorb water. Either that or I need to cover or paint it to keep it dry. It would also be great if it didn't cost a fortune

Thanks for any help!

 

[Jack]

Posted just at the right moment for me. I had the camper lifted off the truck to install a backup camera so I went to HD and came back with EPS foam and fit the pieces into the 1x3 frame that boosts my Fleet.

Most of the camper heat is lost through the canvas - we have the arctic pack for that. But in the middle of the night, I anticipate a warmer floor for bare feet.

I strongly recommend the arctic pack year round. In the summer, it cuts the heat, and in the fall, winter and spring here in the NW, it keeps the condensation out of the living space. With the worst condensation, we wipe down with cheap $1 towels between the arctic pack and the canvas.

Also of note. The newer canvas has a higher heat transfer coefficient than the older canvas in our 2005 Eagle (metal has a high coefficient, insulation is much lower). A higher heat transfer coefficient results in more condensation.

 

[CoreyTrevor]

That's pretty much what I was planning for the floor, using screws to hold up the sheets so they don't sit on the truck bed and get wet.

I can't tell by your photo if you did, but if you leave a maybe 1/2" gap between the floor and the EPS, the layer of air adds even more R value. I'm going to seal around the pieces unless I can do really accurate cuts with no gaps. (Unlikely)

Also planning to seal the perimeter of the spacer to the camper to keep water out, and screw the floor to the spacer.

Are you planning to do the rest of the plywood also? I'm not sure about the EPS for that, I've read that it will absorb a small amount of water, and I don't want wet anything sitting against the wood. You could probably seal it with a water based paint. I would think the solvents in spray paint might melt the EPS.

I'd like to cruise down to HD, but it's a 300+ mile round trip!

 

[JaSAn]

I use 1" Foamular (R 5.0). I think it holds up better under compression than polyiso.


The lumber is to keep the camper square when tightened down.
The Foamular does not absorb water so I don't care if it gets wet underneath; the compressed Foamular gives a watertight seal with the camper bottom.
Same stuff could be attached to the bottom sides if you have clearance.

 

[CoreyTrevor]

That Foamular looks like it would be good on the sides and step area. Is it a lot like styrofoam as far as durability? If I bump it with a chunk of firewood will it dent as easily as EPS?

Thanks!

 

[CoreyTrevor]

I found this at Lowes, with free shipping. Good price, a little over R5, and if I measured accurately I can do the whole box with one layer and have enough to do 2 layers under the floor.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/SilveRboard

Wonder what the R-value would be with two layers at R5+ with two 1/2" air gaps. Enough for toasty wife feet?

 

[Jack]

The top of the1x3 frame has 2" strips of 1/2' horse pad on it (salvaged from the Tacoma installation). This leaves a nice 1/2 gap between the bottom of the camper and the EPS. There are four 4" square thin aluminum plates that are screwed into the side of the camper and also into the side of the frame. When I lift the camper, the frame lifts with it.

I had considered attaching EPS around the side, but decided that, except for the area around the tie-down access, the interior cabinetry provided a fair bit of effective insulation. When I switch to a lithium battery, I will insulate the walls of the battery compartment from the inside. If I notice a big difference on the floor, I will do the sides.

I have been storing a lot of stuff in stuff sacks between the camper and the truck through the rear tie-down access holes - extra food, paper plates, paper towels, 1 gallon propane tank and adapter hose, etc. Dust is the only problem and the stuff sacks take care of it. Never had water - Fleet on Tacoma and Ford Ranger.