Idaho after Labor Day

4llamas

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Jun 6, 2008
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SW Willamette Valley, Oregon
This would be my 15th year of packing with llamas. I had never missed a year and after studying maps and guidebooks all winter my sights were set on some of the iconic locations in Idaho: Bighorn Crags, Sawtooths and White Cloud Mountains. But it wasn't meant to be. Instead of getting stronger with each conditioning hike this spring my three packers were showing their age and even breaking down. It didn't take long to realize that packing in Idaho was definitely out of the question and further trials showed that it was in fact time to retire the entire pack string. I found myself in a lousy funk. In all likelihood there would be no packing at all this year.

So I decided to go scout those areas, do some hiking, fishing, riding my mountain bike, check out some trailheads and locate places to disperse camp with the llamas for when I eventually get to pack in Idaho. Unfortunately while I was down in Grass Valley, Cal. purchasing a couple of beautiful but young and inexperienced Ccara llamas I stepped on a rusty old 16d nail and drove it into the bone of my foot, right behind my toes.

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With a fresh td booster and a system full of antibiotics I hit the road Tuesday after Labor Day. My route was up the gorgeous McKenzie River corridor, through Sisters, Bend, Burns and to my first camp at Bully Creek Reservoir near Vale. There I spent some time talking with a couple of bird hunters and giving them a tour of my camper. Earlier I heard them shooting and they reported bringing down 8 dove. That night the wind blew and gusted harder than I have ever before experienced in my camper. It set off the car alarm of the bird hunters and my truck was rocking and making noises I've never heard. Four times that night I got up and walked around to make sure everything was okay.

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Day two I wound my way along the Payette River on Hwy. 52 to Horseshoe Bend, Banks, through the lovely Garden Valley, Lowman and my second camp at Bonneville Campground. At every opportunity I stopped at the Forest Service Work Stations for maps and information on roads. Very helpful people those FS employees and I was able to identify some interesting areas for exploration on another trip. However, I don't agree that the hot springs at Bonneville make it a good place to camp. The mixed water in the tub was tepid and the pools by the river were shallow and muddy. Both couples I spoke with said it wasn't worth it. Oh well, maybe another place another time.

(Sorry, that's all the pics the site will allow me to load)



On the third day I spent about 4 hours driving the few remaining miles to Stanley. Coming out of the mountains and into the basin area was the perfect region to look for dispersed camping with meadows suitable for a layover with the llamas. One of the first areas I looked at was Bull Trout lake, there is actually a campground with corrals, but I think it is available by reservation and there are only 4 or 6 sites. Not to worry, the closer I got to Stanley the more choices I had. I don't remember how much dirt road I drove that day, but I remember how odd it felt to not have my llama trailer behind me. Obviously that made it much easier to explore dirt roads. There are some beautiful creeks and rivers in the area. That afternoon I roamed around Stanley, had lunch at the Mountain View and went to the FS station for camping information. The Redfish overflow camping was indeed almost empty, but I didn't locate the beautiful view and running creek. I stayed anyway as I was leaving early the next morning for Challis and beyond. Woke up to 22 degrees the next morning. Crisp and clear with a full moon coming due in a few days.

The log book says it's day four, okay, I'm already losing track. Stopped at The Bakery in Stanley for a cup of brewed coffee and a blueberry scone. They serve huge, goodlooking breakfast and bakery items. Yummy. The place was getting packed, but I managed to wedge myself into a corner and call my bride of 25 years. Bless her heart she was back home working and taking care of the new llamas. Yes, there were some issues between the new girls and the old alpha, no it wasn't anything to worry about. Lots of spitting, none of it guttural. Mostly just staking out territory. No they don't seem to miss me, but they sure look forward to the Asian pears the wife brings from the orchard.

On to the Bighorn Crags Campground and trailhead.
 
This day I drove to Challis and bought a fishing license good for a few days, stopped at the FS station for the low down on the road to the Bighorn Crags and then headed that way. Ever since Lowman I had been hearing about how wet the summer has been here. It looked it too, relatively green in the hills and water filled potholes on the dirt roads. None of it was keeping the dust down on Morgan Creek Road. Later I heard one of the locals call it the freeway. And the first 35 miles was wide and generally smooth with only a few pinch spots. Of course one of those tight blind corners is exactly where I met that cloud of dirt wearing a Peterbilt grill coming at me. We both had quickly gotten into our respective ditches when I saw the blade of the oversized bulldozer he was hauling fly by window. I don't know how, but he missed me with inches to spare. No harm no foul and away I went. If you want to get pretty far away from it all there are some spreads (secluded with a view) for sale on Morgan Creek.




Once you turn onto Porphyry Creek the road gets steeper and progressively worse, actually more like what I expected all along except for the long deep washouts. Finally there is the "road" up to the Crags Campground. Of the seven or eight vehicles in the parking lot only one or two were not high clearance 4X4 trucks, Subarus if I remember correctly. Jeff, the campground host said the only stock trailer he could remember this summer was the outfitter that comes up each spring and spends the summer for search and rescue and packing in supplies to various parties. Hauling animals up the last 15-20 miles of that road is a good way to severely injure one of them. Or, tear up a trailer and/or vehicle. I scrubbed a lot of tread off my tires. Jeff showed me the comments hikers make in the register when they come out of the Crags. Most of them mentioned the heavy rain they endured day after day. It was beautiful while I was there, but the higher roads were full of serious washouts. In some places a third of the road had calved off. I never did get a definitive answer as to whether the erosion was from this year or had accumulated over several years. Luckily the only other vehicles I met up there were OHVs. After I checked out the campground, trailhead and surrounding area I decided to camp down at Yellowjacket Lake.



One other group was camped at the 5-8 acre lake. Larry, a retired FS manager, was up there with his wife and adult daughter from L.A.. He says they stock the lakes on a three year rotation and he figures they do road maintenance the same. They left the next day and I had the lake and all six campsites to myself. It's free camping with a clean vault toilet and several faucets with potable water. I rode my bike a bit and hiked up onto the ridges overlooking the Crags. It was difficult acclimating to 8,000 feet. I live at 900 feet. A little exertion went a long way. Fishing in Yellowjacket was a hoot. Big fat Cutthroat and Rainbow were hitting the Panther Martin I was tossing and the wet fly I trolled around. They probably would have tasted good too, but I didn't keep any. Sugar Loaf looms large at 9045'. I discovered that the cover photo for my Frank Church Wilderness guidebook was taken from my camp at Yellowjacket Lake.




Fishfin Ridge on the right, I think.


A few days of that and I woke up one morning to ominous clouds and a cool wind. I decided to get as many of the sixty dirt road miles behind me as I could before the rain or snow hit. It appeared to rain hard in some areas, but I missed it all. Back on Morgan Creek, just after the Porphyry Creek junction I was waved over by a man at a cow camp. He wanted to know did I have some jumper cables. Yes I do. While he was jump starting his wife's car I checked out my rig and discovered my awning bracket was bent and busted, flopping around a bit. Immediately I knew where it had happened, when I met those OHV riders coming up the mountain side by side. I swerved to the ditch and must have snagged it on the brush. Never felt it at the time, but I should have remembered to check my truck at the bottom of the rough road. Well, I guess I did, sort of. The property owner showed up and said he would be happy to have the bent and twisted aluminum from my awning. He already had a use for the nuts and bolts.

Another area I intended to check out for future packing trips was Livingston Mill, the trailhead area for the Boulder Chain Lakes in the White Cloud Mountains. However at the junction of the East Fork Road there were signs warning of long delays and road closures so I took a pass. Shortly I was back in Stanley and I decided to rent a room, have a real shower and a restaurant meal, all at the Mountain View. They have hot spring soaking tubs about 400 yards up the creek, but I opted for a morning shower instead. After coffee and muffins at The Bakery I hit the road for more exploring.

P.S. I figured out how to use the gallery so here are a few pics of the Bonneville Campground.


 
My final area to scout for future packing trips was from Stanley Lake to Alturas Lake. The campgrounds around Redfish and Petit Lakes were crowded even after Labor Day and much too developed for my taste. I considered using the vacant undeveloped camping area at Perkins Lake, but chose instead to stay in the Lakeview campground on Stanley Lake. It was almost empty and it does have that special Sawtooth view I traveled so far to see. One after another heavy Rainbow trout were taking beadhead flies. Osprey were doing well with golden talons. The lake does get choppy, but there were some very nice hiking and biking trails to explore when I was forced off the water.

The contractors began to close some campgrounds forcing a bit of crowding so I decided it was time to head home. The trip was only 10 days, 1600 miles. On the drive home I didn't take the turn at Horseshoe Bend and ended up driving some freeway miles, but I had 4 or 5 times more dirt road miles so I feel okay about it. I left Stanley Lake at 6:00am and arrived back at my own nest 12.5 hours and 600 miles later that day. A very enjoyable, exhausting and informative trip. The hot springs in Juntura will have to wait yet another day.

Thanks for following along.

Stanley Lake in the early morning.


 
I live in Boise and have been to many of those locations. Lots of great areas around that area and you had a great adventure.
 
No Frank, I don't think so. I haven't located Hamilton in my Benchmark Map, but Lolo Pass (Hwy. 12 I believe) is well north of the area I visited. Morgan Creek Road (#55 )takes off of Hwy. 93 about eight miles north of Challis. Yellowjacket Lake is northwest of Challis just outside the Frank Church River of No Return Wilderness. Stanley is on the north side of the Sawtooth National Recreation Area, south and west of Challis on Hwy. 75
 
kmcintyre said:
I live in Boise and have been to many of those locations. Lots of great areas around that area and you had a great adventure.
I did have a great time. The rangers in Lowman were really keen on the Red Mountain area north of their station, way up road 582 and then some. You have any knowledge about the trails and lakes in that area? It looks like it can also be approached from the north.
 
I'm headed out to backpack up the Selway river today for a week or so but off the top of my head I don't know of anything up there. I've been back up towards Deadwood Reservoir but I've seen better places. It's starting to get colder up in the mountains now but the White Clouds, etc. are great. That whole basin around Stanley, etc. are awesome but the Sawtooths are really restrictive about fires, etc. while other places around there not so much.
 
kmcintyre said:
I'm headed out to backpack up the Selway river today for a week or so but off the top of my head I don't know of anything up there. I've been back up towards Deadwood Reservoir but I've seen better places. It's starting to get colder up in the mountains now but the White Clouds, etc. are great. That whole basin around Stanley, etc. are awesome but the Sawtooths are really restrictive about fires, etc. while other places around there not so much.
The rangers told me about some alpine lakes and meadows near Red Mountain. I'll research it on my topo maps and Google Earth. I read somewhere that Stanley holds the state record for low temperature, something around -50 degrees. It was in the low 20s at night while I was there. This is a great time of year to be out camping, have a good trip up the Selway.
 
There is so much wonderful country to explore out there. We are indeed lucky to have public lands, especially here in the West. Here's to Idaho! Thanks again. :)
 
4llamas said:
No Frank, I don't think so. I haven't located Hamilton in my Benchmark Map, but Lolo Pass (Hwy. 12 I believe) is well north of the area I visited. Morgan Creek Road (#55 )takes off of Hwy. 93 about eight miles north of Challis. Yellowjacket Lake is northwest of Challis just outside the Frank Church River of No Return Wilderness. Stanley is on the north side of the Sawtooth National Recreation Area, south and west of Challis on Hwy. 75
Got it thanks.
Frank
 
4llamas said:
Another area I intended to check out for future packing trips was Livingston Mill, the trailhead area for the Boulder Chain Lakes in the White Cloud Mountains.
4llamas, take the time to venture up the trail from Livingston Mill sometime. :)
 
Yep, I'd like to see the area. Livingston Mill was one of my primary targets this trip, but there were signs warning of construction and long delays on East Fork Road so I didn't go. Boulder Chain Lakes are very high on my list of destinations in Idaho.
 

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