Insulating cab over

longhorn1

Ouch, that stings!
Joined
Nov 25, 2013
Messages
2,826
Location
Carmel, Indiana
Several members have referred to Reflectix to insulate their cab over. There is a single reflectix, a double layer, and barrier. What has everyone used? If using the single layer are you putting the aluminum surface down? Are there other choices for insulating this area? How do you keep the bed slide from binding up on the insulation when you close the bed extension? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
We used the double layer and ran it under the edge of the bed slide all the way to the edge of the cabover so the bed slide always sits on top of the insulation and there is no exposed edge. We carefully taped two pieces of reflectix together to cover the cabover area but we did not fasten it down to the cabover. We have not had an issue with the bed slide catching on the insulation as it slides. We do leave the bed extended most of the time.
 
FWIW we've cut out pieces of Reflectix to fit into the window frame and cover the windows. I tend to leave them in place until the window is desired. Never have removed the one over the front window. With the size of the side window and the way that it opens the covering has made a huge warm and cold country difference.
 
I tried the Reflectix alone in the coastal high humidity moderate but sometimes freezing Pacific NW and found it to be worthless. Also, know that I do not not use the cab over extender.

Assuming you are concerned with both staying warmer and reducing condensation.... I lined the inside bottom of my cab-over with a 1/2" white foam 4'x8' sheet good product purchased from Home Depot. To improve the durability, I taped the edges and seam with reflective tape. It is white on one side and reflective on the other that I put down. It is very inexpensive and stated to be mold and insect free. This provides insulation and significantly reduces under mattress condensation. I then throw another layer of Reflectex on top of that. I question if this really does anything other than provide a more durable surface. Between this and the mattress is a product called Drymesh ( http://www.drymesh.net ). THIS IS THE KEY FOR CONDENSATION! Thiis product allows some ventilation and keeps your mattress from direct contact absorption where the remaining condensation forms. It is also key to have a couple of inches of clearance around the edges of the mattress for ventilation.

With all of this a small amount of Condensation still forms but this system mitigates it greatly and keeps the mattress from direct contact. Each morning I double the mattress back and towel off the little bit of condensation that forms between the Drymesh and foam. Whenever I can I double back the mattress on a dry day and open everything up even if cold. Every time I put in to wash clothing I throw all bedding and mattress cover in the dryer. Before making the bed up I spray and wipe everything down with Quality Care Disinfectant which is a mold and mildew preventer. I also rotate the mattress end to end.

I am consistently in 30 to 40 degree Pacific NW conditions from BC to Oregon. The foam underlay is cheap and could be ditched in summer months. There is no simple solution that does not require on going preventative maintenance such as airing, drying and cleaning, not in this environment anyhow. If you don't you have mildew and mold. End of story. I have tried them all.

I have made other posts about mattress and dry mesh source. Hope this helps.
 
Hi Kispiox,

(Love the handle--great part of the world!)

I acquired a new-to-me but rather famous Ranger II in Sacramento last fall, and have camped in it twice for three-night stints at Bodega Bay. Nothing like Northwest temperatures, of course, although the first three day stint was unseasonably chilly and the mercury got below freezing at night. I did have a little condensation and set the mattresses out to air on my return.

I will be headed north in March and will be interested to see what you're writing about. Thing is, I spent years travelling coastal and central BC as far north as Prince Rupert and Prince George, mostly in early spring and late fall, in a VW camper. It was plenty cold and plenty wet outside but I managed to stay quite comfy. I was usually on the road for about a month. So I'm puzzled at your experiences of extreme condensation. Not saying they haven't happened, just that they aren't what I would have expected.

I agree that airing and cleaning are important to prevent mildew and mold. I found that to be true in my apartments in Vancouver!

I know that other folks in WTW have written of similar issues. Has anyone tried the dehumidifying packets you can hang in a camper or damp basement? I'm thinking I may use one, just in case?

Thoughts, please?
 
Keep in mind I am retired, fish and travel a lot. My camper does not get tucked into my garage to intermittently dry.

I was not saying inside is an "Extreme" problem. If that is what you gleaned from my message read again. I was referring to exterior environmental conditions. I have figured out how to manage it and passing it on. What I refer to is extreme exterior conditions. There are periods for weeks at a time for instance in the Hoh Rain Forest on the Olympic Peninsula where it is 100% humidity drizzling rain and once in a while mixed snow that makes for the perfect condensation battleground. Forks vampire crap you know. Moss is on everything N., S., E., or West. There are mountain rain shadow micro climes even here that I duck into to dry out sometimes, but unfortunately that is not where the Steelhead are.. All I'm saying is that in a Rain Forest you have condensation no matter what and if you can manage it here you are good to go. I was in SoCA Laguna Beach and not even a hint of a problem, or anywhere else that I've been in Ca for that matter. I don't consider Terrace to Smithers a rain forest. Smithers to PG is absolutely not. Below Terrace to Prince Rupert, yes, but my opinion not as wet as the Hoh Rain Forest. I have also been to Haida Gwaii, Yakoun River and that it a step up from the Hoh in terms of cold humidity. Also, fall is one thing, Winter is quite another. If you were saying Extreme conditions don't exist, well, I'll be nice and say no more.

Picture hearing no rain on the camper roof other than maybe varying degrees of hissing. Rain usually sounds like a drum, right. Yet go outside and you are drenched with water rolling off your brim almost immediately.

I have a rear awning and shake off as much dampness from clothing as can before getting back into the camper, but once that clothing is inside the water vaporizes and condenses against anything cold. There are many other sources that cause vapor and I try to minimize. When cooking the vent is on full tilt boogy exhaust and the turnbuckle door is open. No pasta in these conditions, I wash dishes in cold water. Get inland and not a problem, with the exception of under mattress. If you don't keep ahead of it mold and mildew will eventually show. Use judicial amounts of heat, Vent and dry and it is manageable.

With re to dehumidifying packets. No, I think they would be to much hassle when picking up, running and gunning all the time. May work if in storage, but so far mine never has been in storage.. When things get a little clammy I head to a laundry. Better yet with preventative maintenance it doesn't get clammy.
 
We use the moisture absorbers even down here on the Coastal Desert. Takes a couple of months for them to fill beyond use. The type that my wife buys have a coat hanger-like hanger on them. Make them fairly simple to use, and they can ride in the camper full time.
 
Thanks, Kispiox, never have put a vehicle in storage. Never headed into winter in northern BC, yet, and doubt that anywhere that cold would be seriously damp.. That said, November can be rather intense. Ditto for northern Vancouver Island. NTSQD, thanks. I've used the hanger-type doo-dads in damp apartments and found they really improved things. I'll find one before I head north.

No doubt I'll find out how things work. Thanks, no doubt cooking pasta etc is a way to make for condensation. I'd avoid, too.
 
Back
Top Bottom