is tailgate really necessary to support 16" overhang?

[RicoV]

I have a 2011 Grandby Shell that sticks out about 16" beyond the rear edge of my Nissan Titan's bed, and this overhang portion is presently unsupported. While previous threads have suggested that I should remount the tailgate to help support the overhang, I have resisted putting it back on because of the tailgate's added weight, and the fact that its thickness impedes normal access to the access hole for the spare tire hoist. I have added Hellwig rear suspension upgrades to properly support the rear weight load of my unit, and I understand that the FWC flooring structure was built quite strong to hold the weight of several people in it, correct? Am I really playing with fire by leaving this 16" overhang unsupported? I'd appreciate anyone's thoughts on this. Thanks,
RicoV

 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

RicoV, I met a fellow camper in Denali last year. He has a ATC Bobcat mounted on a double cab Tacoma. The camper hangs over the rear about the same as yours does. The owner has added air bags to the rear and that seems to take care of the weight and the overhang isn't a problem. The owner has put a lot of miles on his rig and the camper hanging out the back hasn't been a problem. I think if you put the tail gate on it would work except like you mentioned you can't get to the spare crank down and that could be a problem. I don't know how you can get the spare down without a big hassle if it covers the crank hole.
Just some thoughts. Hope it works out for you.
Frank

 

[5444]

FWC told me the tailgate should remain on the truck for support. I have a 2011 tundra crew max and was looking at a hawk.

 

[MidnightRider]

I havn't had any issues with the overhang on mine.

It is a hassle getting the spare down, but it can be done if you can crawl under there and use something shorter in the slot to lower it. I am making a tool to drop the tire easier. A bar with a swivel inline and a slotted end.

 

[5444]

I havn't had any issues with the overhang on mine.



I believe Northstar's have a full woodframed floor, although they did at one time make aluminum framed campers. I'm not sure which type of Northstar is pictured above. Their floor can handle the weight/additional stress of being unsupported. Correct me if I'm wrong, but FWC are not designed to be unsupported.

 

[White Dog]

I think the other question you may want to think about is axle weight. On the inside of the driver's door frame, you should find a sticker that give maximum axle weight for both front and back axles (I'm assuming that's not just a 'Canadian thing'). With these numbers in hand and the fully loaded camper installed, have the front and rear axle weighed independently (I have always found highway weight stations with automatic scales are handy for this - I've even had the staff at a local government weigh station give me the numbers if I asked nicely. I always say 'its just to make sure l'm safe').

You might be surprised at what you find out

Often folks only think about the GVWR. By having 18" sticking out back, you are moving a lot of the weight onto the rear axle rather than both axles. This is why they often say the front end feels 'light'. It's always best to get the 'real numbers'.

 

[RamRider]

Tailgate is not that heavy but for other reasons mentioned I've been thinking how to deal with that same problem. IMHO floor construction of FWC is not setup for substantial free span. Its just stapled/screwed into the edge. Neither one works well on pull loads. One idea I've had is to attach a something akin to crossmember to bottom of hanging portion and hook it up to mounts that ordinary attach cables for tailgate. Using turnbuckles one can adjust tension to make it act similarly.

 

[RicoV]

Thank you all for your input. After re-looking over my spare wheel configuration I've concluded (again) that the framing pieces simply will not allow me to redirect the hoist's T-rod channel to a rear wheel well or other entry point, so it appears the Titan tailgate will continue to gather dust in a corner of my garage. I've also considered something like what RamRider has described, and will check out the local hardware supply stores to see what might be available and worthy for such an application. I'll post back when there's something on the positive side to report. Gotta love this FWC forum and the helpfulness of its members!

 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

RicoV,have you thought about drilling a hole (1 1/4" ,or so)in the top lip and bottom of the tail gate? The crank rod could pass through to the hole. You could get a rubber plug like the ones used under the rug areas for access to bolts. Just a thought,I know for resale it might not look that good. What does the Nisson dealer say to do to access the crank hole with the gate down. To answer my own question,"put the gate up".
Hope things work out. Frank

 

[Barko1]

Is there a hitch receiver from which some sort of 90 degree support could be employed?