Led The Way

Hittheroad

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2009
Messages
311
We have a 2009 Eagle with standard lighting fixtures, i.e. single contact bayonets. I have replaced one bulb in each overhead light with an LED bulb. This gives plenty of light for most activities but it is less light than the original incandescent bulbs. By keeping the second bulb as incandescent we can get all the light we need when we need it and save power when we don't. In one fixture I used a Ancor Marine 529414 in the other a Dr. LED 8001245. Both bulbs fit easily and give out about the same amount of light. The Dr. LED is intended to be a spot light so it might work better in a different fixture.

The window boot covers the top of cab brake light and we were told to take out the bulbs to prevent overheating. In my 1999 Tacoma the three bulbs can be replaced by 3 Ancor Marine 9353889 wedge base LED lights. These give off no heat and can be left in place.

I am interested to learn of other LED solutions. I like the save the batteries so I am sure there is plenty for the heater fan on long cold nights.
 
I am playing with a different approach: I bought 2 - 48 LED panels and 2 - 36 LED panels off ebay and 4 1156 bulb bases from Super Bright LEDs. I soldered leads to the bulb bases and used double sided sponge tape to mount the panels in the light fixtures. They put out plenty of light with the 36 LED panels on low and both 36 and 48 LED panels on when high. So far, the sponge tape is not very satisfactory as the panels drop onto the cover after a bit of 4 wheel travel. I am working on a solution for that, but it isn't really much of a problem as there isn't much heat being produced. I expected more of a 'spotlight' effect than what I got as the light covers seem to diffuse the light pretty well. Next: the porch light.

I think there is more info on a thread in one of the forums here so a search may be in order.
 
I did four of the 48 wide angle from V-LED

http://www.v-leds.com/Interior-LED/Camper-RV-LED/White-LED/V-LEDS-HID-WHITE-48-M-p5217649.html

Have not had out on the road just in the drive way at night. Have a lot of light without the spot light effect. I did use the double sided tape, had to use double thickness to keep the sides from touching. Like the no heat and low elec use.

Bill
 
I did four of the 48 wide angle from V-LED

http://www.v-leds.com/Interior-LED/Camper-RV-LED/White-LED/V-LEDS-HID-WHITE-48-M-p5217649.html

Have not had out on the road just in the drive way at night. Have a lot of light without the spot light effect. I did use the double sided tape, had to use double thickness to keep the sides from touching. Like the no heat and low elec use.

Bill


Just how bright are they? I was looking at this but I don't want it so bright that it make it difficult to go outside, what watt bulbs did you have up there before and how do they compare?
 
I had standard 1156 bulbs and I think the light from the LEDs is pretty much the same brightness but more blue-white. I had no trouble adjusting to the dark from the LED lit camper interior.
 
I did four of the 48 wide angle from V-LED

http://www.v-leds.co...M-p5217649.html

Have not had out on the road just in the drive way at night. Have a lot of light without the spot light effect. I did use the double sided tape, had to use double thickness to keep the sides from touching. Like the no heat and low elec use.

Bill


I went with the V-Led company also but have the 48 light 5K temp. I like the white this puts out, I also replaced the lens cover with a clear one. They hardly use any on the battery. They come with many plug in bases.
http://www.v-leds.co...8-p7381012.html

Search the web for discount coupon codes.
 
I also added the 36 led lights inside and found by using velcro strips and putting a little silicon adhesive on the self stick part worked great,its been 6 months. I also added some 26smd led H3 bulbs to my outside camper flood lights and they work great. 2 on each side and 2 on rear of camper each light goes out about 40ft with light.they don't go as far as 55watt 4.5amps H3 bulbs but use a fraction of power at only .1 amp each.I replaced the porch light with an 18 led 1156 bulb white with my amber lens work great.
 
Hi Everybody.
Looking for a little advice. I ordered two White 36 LED Circuit Board RV 1156 bulbs, bayonet style, from V-LEDs.com and they do not light up when installed. I tried them both ways, so I don't think it's a polarity issue. I tried both bulb arrays in two different fixtures with no luck. They light up filament bulbs just fine. I have an 81 Fleet, but my fixtures look identical to the pix I've seen on this board of new models. I have emailed V-LEDs, but haven't gotten a response. Is there something I am missing that will make them work?
Thanks!
 
Is there any way you can use your battery or other 12V source and short lengths of wire to be sure it isn't polarity? If neither lights, it sounds like polarity. Try + to center electrode in the base and - to the side of the bulb. If no light, - on center, + on side. If still no light, send 'em back. It is possible that they aren't making contact in the bulb mounts even though regular bulbs work fine. If you can light them from the battery but not the fixture, then it is the fixture/bulb interface.
 
Thanks Argonaut,

The bulbs will light when connected to a 9V battery, so I guess the LEDs aren't defective. Any advice on how to make the fixture/bulb interface happy so that they will light up the camper?
 
Thanks Argonaut,

The bulbs will light when connected to a 9V battery, so I guess the LEDs aren't defective. Any advice on how to make the fixture/bulb interface happy so that they will light up the camper?


Buy a small VOM and check the voltage at the socket and after you put in the adapter. Could just be a bad connection on the adapter.

Bill
 
Could be that the sockets are wired the reverse of what you need. Again with the short wires, see if you can manage to get one wire on the center electrode and the other on the side of the socket. You can then check to see which arrangement lights the LED. When you switch on the light if the wire to the side of the socket put to the center contact of the bulb and the wire from the center electrode of the socket placed on the side of the bulb lights the bulb, the socket is wired in reverse. This may be easier if you drop the light from the ceiling and use a couple of small alligator clips to connect to the wires in back of the light rather than trying to work from the socket itself. If the wiring is reversed, switching the wires going to the light should get it working. If the wiring is not reversed then the socket and bulb aren't making contact.
 
Whoops... Time for a d'oh! moment.
I had my battery terminal wiring reversed...
The filament bulbs didn't care, but the LEDs did. Switched the wires and the LED are working great. Guess I'd better check my old furnace again before I junk it. I wondered why the fan seemed to be running backwards! It was!

Just to be sure - old FWCs - White = negative, Black = positive, right? So much conflicting advice on the internet...
 
Just to be sure - old FWCs - White = negative, Black = positive, right? So much conflicting advice on the internet...
[/quote]

With that cheap VOM (volt ohm miliamp) use a set of jumper cables to the frame of the truck this will be ground for your truck battery. Hook the black lead(ground) of the meter to the jumper cable and test all of what you think are hot leads in your camper. Reverse polarity can cause some strange and bad problems.

On most 12 volt systems black is ground. On 110V white is ground.

BILL
 
EEEEEKKK !!

You don't want to reverse the polarity.

If you do your own camper wiring, it is always a good idea to install some "in-line" fuses.

This will help save your butt in case you do wire something up wrong or have a short somewhere.

Here are how the old FWC campers are wired on the actual wire that comes out on the "outside" of the camper ...


WHITE WIRE IS "HOT" (POSITIVE +)

BLACK WIRE IS "GROUND" (NEGATIVE -)


Also try and get to the actual camper wiring that is coming out to double check what wire is what.

It will usually be a double insulated wire (grey plastic covering) and 2 wires inside. One white wire and one black wire.

On many of the old campers, different owners have tinkered with the camper wired and goofed it up.

So what may look right at first glance, might not always be right depending on what the other owners of the camper have done over the years to it.

Remember ...

--- FWC CAMPERS --- OUTSIDE WIRING ---

WHITE WIRE = POSITIVE

BLACK WIRE = NEGATIVE


Hope this helps.


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Just to be sure - old FWCs - White = negative, Black = positive, right? So much conflicting advice on the internet...








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OK - thanks Everybody.
That helps Stan.
I checked again, and my aux deep cycle is currently hooked up white to positive, black to negative (as it was yesterday when i wrongly typed black = +) and the LEDs work perfectly.
 
Hi Everybody.
Looking for a little advice. I ordered two White 36 LED Circuit Board RV 1156 bulbs, bayonet style, from V-LEDs.com and they do not light up when installed. I tried them both ways, so I don't think it's a polarity issue. I tried both bulb arrays in two different fixtures with no luck. They light up filament bulbs just fine. I have an 81 Fleet, but my fixtures look identical to the pix I've seen on this board of new models. I have emailed V-LEDs, but haven't gotten a response. Is there something I am missing that will make them work?
Thanks!



I just put in a pair of 48 LED from V-LED, no problems. I wonder if V-led sent you a defective light. Are you sure it was 12 volt, there is a higher voltage model.
 
The lights work great... now.
I had my battery wiring on backwards.
Now that it's right, my furnace works too! Huzzah!
 
In Stan's above picture is there a specific reason to have a fuse on both the positive and negative leg of the battery. When I set mine up I just copied this but I was wondering what is the reasoning behind this? Most automotive accessories like amps, lights, etc only fuse one leg?
 
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