Lifting the top of the FWC

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bluefly

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Jun 18, 2006
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I've been pondering this problem for a while as I plan on putting more weight on the roof and want to insure that lifting it remains a doable, solo job.

Installing a water tank up against the front of the camper this week and realized I won't be able to get directly under the lift panel, making the job tougher.

Jacks that are out there are meant to lift tons, not pounds. I want something lightweight, simple, and stowable.

Went out this morning and found what seems to be a solution for $20 on sale at Checker Auto. Short enough to sit on the water tank cabinet and lift the front, long enough to lift the back from the floor, it only weighs four and a half pounds. Also stows between the pillars behind the front seats of my extended cab Taco and may or may not keep my dog from the driver's seat when she's in the back.

It's a ratcheting cargo bar. It worked fine with the one solar panel that's on my roof now. Takes about two minutes. Don't know how much additional weight it can handle but it might be a solution for you, camelracer, and anyone else looking for some help popping the top.

Good luck and good times,

Donna
 

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That would be interesting to try out. Do you think it will help to lower a loaded roof in a controlled fashion?

Marty or Ben have any opinions on this?
 
roof bar

marty here. i think it could be made into a roof up device easily enough but i would bet it is a one way ratchit. so up only would be my vote. i think i am going to get one to try it out. i am currently doing a grandby remodel, so it will be after that. i will let you know what i can do with that bar then.
marty
 
The cargo bar won't help with lowering the roof- it's built as a spreader only. While it would be great if it worked in both directions, I have a tougher time raising the roof than lowering it, and for this purpose the bar seems promising.

I'd be cautious about trusting it to lift much more weight than the add'l solar panel I plan on adding, as it's not built for this purpose. Even if it could handle more weight, what goes up must come down... unassisted!
 
Bluefly,
Thanks for the suggestion. I'll give it a try when I get back on my feet in a few months. I'm not concerned about lowering the top, that was never a problem. I had problems locking the end panels in place while trying to hold up the roof, especially in front.
 
pushing up roof

Don't know if this will help or not. This is the way that I have shown people how to raise the roof for years and even had a 74 year old lady who was able to do it with some practice.

When you first get in the camper sqat down at the back, keeping back straight and put hands on the push bar. Stand up lifting the roof as you do, once the roof is up all the way, take one hand and push the back panel to lock it. At this point the back panel is tight, do not try to pull it forward yet to wrap the strap around the knob.

Go to the front of the camper and sqat down a little, still keeping back straight, put left fore arm against the push board and start to stand up pushing on the roof. As soon as you start to lift the roof, take the pull/push handle with your right hand and push on it also as you stand pushing the roof still with your arm. Between pushing the push board and the handle at the same time the roof normally goes up smoothly in the front. When it reaches the top it should lock into place smoothly since you are still pushing on the handle and that locks it into place for you.

Now come back to the back panel and pull it out just a little to wrap the small strap around the knob. With the roof all the way up you will find the back panel is not as tight as when you have just the back of the camper lifted up.

Note here, you have to have the door open to lift the roof. The amount of air that is moved by lifting or lowering the roof will actually prevent you from either operation if you don't have the door open.

When lowering the roof, as long as you don't have a load on top of it, you can just grab the handle on the front panel and pull it towards you. You don't have to hold the roof while letting it down. You can just let it come down on it's own. Just remember to duck so you don't hit your head. Then you can do the same for the back of the camper, again, remember to duck down or the roof will remind you the hard way. Then grab the liner at about the middle point inside the camper and give a slight tug to make sure it is in. Then go out and poke the corners of the liner in and latch the roof down.

Don't know if this will help you or not. The ratchet system I would think would work just be careful about slipping off the push board on the roof. You might want to add something on the push board so that what ever you use won't slip and go through the roof fabric on the inside. Not something that is easy to fix if it happens.

While I was at FWC we made a lift one time out of a high lift jack for one customer. We put closet rod ends on the push boards to use a wooden rod with the jack to lift the roof. The closet rod ends held the rod so that it would not slip along the wood and tear the fabric on the inside of the roof.

Hope something in all this helps you out.

Sincerely,
Ben
www.allterraincampers.com
 
When you first get in the camper sqat down at the back, keeping back straight and put hands on the push bar. Stand up lifting the roof as you do, once the roof is up all the way, take one hand and push the back panel to lock it. At this point the back panel is tight, do not try to pull it forward yet to wrap the strap around the knob.

Go to the front of the camper and sqat down a little, still keeping back straight, put left fore arm against the push board and start to stand up pushing on the roof. As soon as you start to lift the roof, take the pull/push handle with your right hand and push on it also as you stand pushing the roof still with your arm. Between pushing the push board and the handle at the same time the roof normally goes up smoothly in the front. When it reaches the top it should lock into place smoothly since you are still pushing on the handle and that locks it into place for you.



Ben, thanks for the tips. I've been under the impression that I needed to lift the roof entirely before pushing on the panels because stressing them in this way (using them to help lift the roof rather than merely using them to lock it in place once it's up) might lead to weakening or failure of the panels. This is consistent with what you say in the first paragraph quoted above.

When you describe lifting the front you suggest that I can lift and push the panels at the same time. If so, this would make the job much easier than what I've been doing up til now.

So, is this true just for the front? It doesn't make sense that it would work on one side and not the other...? Have I been babying those panels too much? Can I use them to assist in lifting front and back?

Do tell! Thanks!

Donna
 
lifting roof

Donna,

When you first get in the camper and lift the back I have always found it eaiser to use both hands on the push board to lift the roof up and then push on the back panel to snap it into place. To be honest I have never pushed on the back panel while I lifted the roof. If you lift the roof the way that I described in the other post it should work. The front panel can be used to help lift the roof because the push bar is connected through the brace on the front panel. The force that you are putting on the front panel to help lift is being spead out to both sides of the panel through the brace. In all the years that I have been doing this, I have never broken a panel in raising the roof or caused any damage to one.

Hope that helps.

Sincerely,
Ben
www.allterraincampers.com
 
Ben, thanks for your detailed reply. The previous owner of my camper apparently removed the push bar from the front panel because he'd hit it turning over in bed. I'd forgotten this detail- no wonder lifting the front is a bit awkward for me!

I've put a stick in the front of the bed drawer and won't be as hesitant using it on the metal brace to help push everything up into position.

You're a prince! Happy New Year and I hope you "lift the top" on your camper sales in 2007! :)

Donna
 
lifting roof

Donna,

What area do you live in? The push handle that you are missing actually hooks into both sides of the brace so that the pressure you put on it won't damage anything. If you are close enough we can put a new push rod in for you or if you are too far away we can ship one to you.

There won't be any charge for it. I would like to see you be able to use your camper comfortably and not have to fight the roof to enjoy your trips.

Sales are fantastic right now. We are booked out for a couple of months at this point and I just sold our last stock unit that we had. Only problem with that is that we won't have anything to show people for a little while. Good problems though.:):)

Sincerely,

Ben
www.allterraincampers.com
 
Ben, thanks for the generous offer. I'll contact you to make a counteroffer. :)
 
Roof handle

Donna,

Just sent your handle out to you. Also sent an e mail to you with instructions on how to install. Again, if you have any questions, just give me a call at 800-446-1003.

Sincerely,

Ben
www.allterraincampers.com
 
Ben,

Thanks for the install notes and replacement pushbar. Your package arrived the other day and I got to open it this morning. Perfect!

This will be a great help- kudos to you and Marty for going out of your way to offer your aid. The camper cavalry act that you two have going on is much appreciated! :)

Donna
 
I always use the push boards and handles and haven't seen any problem with that being too much stress on them. And then just let it flop down. Works fine.
 
push handle

Donna,

Your more than welcome. I hope it helps out for you. Let me know if there is any problem with installing it.

Sincerely,

Ben
www.allterraincampers.com
 
push handle

Donna,

Was just wondering if the handle fit ok and works ok?

Sincerely,

Ben
www.allterraincampers.com
 
I think I've solved the problem of lifting the roof on my Grandby without screwing up my back further. Since I've got an air compressor on the truck I built a pneumatic cylinder out of PVC pipe to do the work. Just tried it this afternoon and it seems to work great. It should be able to lift at least 300# so maybe I can use the camper with a kayak or 2 up there.

I believe FWC rates the roof for a 2000# snow load but does anyone know if there is a limit for a non-uniform load with the top up?
 
wow

Camelracer,
I think the snow load is 1000 pounds. My real question is how are you attaching this system to the inside to distribute the pressure evenly across. It sounds like a workable idea. How do you stop the pressure or travel of this unit from bending your roof . Good luck.

Marty
 
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