Loading and unloading without jacks stands

I decided I wanted mine perfectly centered this last time. I don't think its critical but I did it anyway. I used the winch from my Jeep to move it. Basically just bumped it a bit. Cable attached to the jack mounts.

One thing I would recommend regarding the jacks, unless you're going to leave them on, toss the locknuts. A pita you don't need. Use a battery drill and the attachment (I assume they're still including it).
 
When you're at the shop ask if they that some atwood jacks around. When I got mine they had a bunch of the them and sold them to me cheap. To make them work I need to make some "adaptors" out of 1/4" angle. I think I had about $300 in the whole thing. Since my rig has a fat butt I needed to build extensions anyway. I think you're making this a lot harder than it needs to be just to save a few bucks. You're buying a new FWC, probably the most expensive camper there is considering the size and amenities.
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Perhaps I am making it harder than it needs to be. Some people get psyched wiring a solar panel. Moving heavy things has always been fun for me. I just wondered if anyone had a similar idea. My street and driveway are steep, and some here have expressed concern about the top heavy nature of the jack system, especially if they are mounted on casters, and going down a grade, as mine would need to do. The other issue is that I use the truck for work, and it would be inconvenient to have the camper on all the time. So I thought if could think of fast controlled way to load and unload—and save $750—I'd be killing a few birds with one stone. My garage has high ceilings but there are boats up there, so a lift is out. Plus my shop layout makes just driving into the garage difficult. Anyone here move a FWC on jacks and casters down or up a slope?
 
huckfinn said:
... Anyone here move a FWC on jacks and casters down or up a slope?
Click to expand...
No, but it sounds exciting! ;)

I wasn't kidding about my patent comment -- you may be venturing into new territory here, but why not?
Ignore the naysayers, go for it, and report back with what you come up with. :)

I designed my roof-mounted solar system to be tiltable, even though few/no others do it that way -- I ain't afraid to be different. :D
 
Mark,

I have enjoyed following this thread. It is fun when a bunch of people put their heads together and try and come up with a solution to a problem. Every time I read another post, I started working on a solution in my mind again,sometimes using their input. It is fun! I hope you find a good solution. I may need it as well someday. Keep the ideas coming!

Steve
 
I appreciate it—I'll have to do something, eventually, that's for sure. Maybe that'll include insurance. Thanks everyone.

You know, MarkBC, I was just thinking tonight that it would be cool if a roof-mounted solar panel could tilt!
 
I have seen some stratigies used by motorcyclists and jet ski crowd that have permanent rack in truck that use skateboard wheels and a small winch that lift and slide 1000# with no problem it would add several inches to height but just stand back and push a button would be fun
 
thisoldcamper said:
This guy loads his camper off of a cart in about one minute:
Click to expand...
This definitely is an answer to the issue of loading/unloading without jack stands. I didn't know that devices like this existed: EZ Pickup
But the frame required to be mounted to the bed of the truck adds 2 inches to height -- a downside. I don't see the price listed...
 
If you have a big oak tree or heavy trusses/joists in your garage, you could lift it with a couple chain hoists used with spreader bars that could be connected to the jack brackets with short drop cables. I have toyed with this idea since my garage has 10' a ceiling. and a 1 ton hoist already in place.
 
My crazy idea:
Attach a thin sheet of PTFE (aka, "Teflon") to the bottom of the camper and another thin sheet on the bed of the pickup.
The coefficient of friction of PTFE to PTFE is 0.04... So if the camper weighed 1000 lb then it would only take 40 lb of pull or push to get it moving.
So, you position your height-adjustable dollie -- the top of which is covered with rollers or something like that (maybe more PTFE?) -- right up against the back of the truck bed (maybe with some kind of clamps to make sure it doesn't move during transfer), and then the nearest 10-year-old (no need for four good men) could apply enough force to push or pull the camper to or from dollie and truck bed.

OK, now that I've disclosed this idea publicly, that prevents anyone else from patenting it. :cool:

Of course, with such low friction between camper and truck-bed you'd really need to make sure your turnbuckles/whatever were very tight and secure.

Which gives me another idea: To unload the PTFE-equipped rig, drive the front wheels of the truck up on small ramps, position the height-adjustable dollie at the back of the bed, detach the securing turnbuckles, and the camper slides effortlessly (no need for a 10-year-old) from the bed onto your dollie. To load the camper, push the dollie-camper combo up to the back of the truck, tilt your tiltable dollie towards the bed, and the camper slides smoothly into place.
Secure turnbuckes tightly.
 
It seems to me if you want/need to take your camper off a lot you might be better served with a pop up trailer. I really like my AT Chaser with RTT but wanted a one vehicle solution so switched to a FWC.
 
PTFE has cold flow issues, not the best choice where weight will be sitting on it full time. Have a look at UMHW PE (Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene) or Acetal (aka "Delrin") http://matweb.com/

Wouldn't need a full width sheet, could use runners instead and significant;y cut down on cost. If you had a pair of runners in the bed placed appropriately to mate with the runners on the camper they would guide the camper into place.
 
MarkBC said:
My crazy idea:
Attach a thin sheet of PTFE (aka, "Teflon") to the bottom of the camper and another thin sheet on the bed of the pickup.
The coefficient of friction of PTFE to PTFE is 0.04... So if the camper weighed 1000 lb then it would only take 40 lb of pull or push to get it moving.
So, you position your height-adjustable dollie -- the top of which is covered with rollers or something like that (maybe more PTFE?) -- right up against the back of the truck bed (maybe with some kind of clamps to make sure it doesn't move during transfer), and then the nearest 10-year-old (no need for four good men) could apply enough force to push or pull the camper to or from dollie and truck bed.

OK, now that I've disclosed this idea publicly, that prevents anyone else from patenting it. :cool:

Of course, with such low friction between camper and truck-bed you'd really need to make sure your turnbuckles/whatever were very tight and secure.

Which gives me another idea: To unload the PTFE-equipped rig, drive the front wheels of the truck up on small ramps, position the height-adjustable dollie at the back of the bed, detach the securing turnbuckles, and the camper slides effortlessly (no need for a 10-year-old) from the bed onto your dollie. To load the camper, push the dollie-camper combo up to the back of the truck, tilt your tiltable dollie towards the bed, and the camper slides smoothly into place.
Secure turnbuckes tightly.
Click to expand...
This scares me so much....
 
Hi,
If you use your jack brackets to drag your camper off the truck it should work once or twice before it rips the brackets out of the frame. It might rip some of the frame out also.
An inexpensive way to get a set of jacks would be to call around to some Lance camper dealers and ask about take off jacks. When people upgrade jacks on Lance campers to electric jacks the dealers remove the original Atwood mechanical jacks and replace them with electric jacks. You will need to get a set of brackets made for one inch thick walls to go with the take off jacks.
Have a nice day. Marty
 
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