Lower Klamath and Tule Lake National Wildlife Refuges

Ted

Magellan
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East of Sacramento
The goal of this trip was to see the many Bald Eagles that winter in the Tule Lake / Lower Klamath National Wildlife Refuges (NWF). We are always trying to cover as much ground as possible in a trip. So true to form, we left after work to get a few hours’ drive time in. We have found Laufman campground, about an hour north of Reno on HWY 395, to be a good overnight spot when we do this. Laufman is fairly primitive, with just a few spaces and basic vault toilet, it is just a few miles off the highway. Close enough to be convenient but far enough to not hear any road noise.

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The next day we planned on meeting fellow WTW’er MarkBC at Klamath Lake. Along the way we drove through Tule Lake NWR. Most of the lake was frozen over and we soon saw eagles out on the ice. There were also thousands of geese, ducks, and swans. Ocassionally one of the Bald Eagles would fly into the midst of the other birds, causing a massive number of them to take off. It was amazing how loud the sound of so many birds taking off at once was when you considered how far away we were.


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We met Mark at a Klamath County Park on a peninsula of Klamath Lake just as the sun was setting. The lake surrounding us was completely frozen.

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It was already below freezing so I started to build a fire while Mark and my wife set up our campers and took some photos. I thought I heard some strange noise but attributed it to truck traffic even though the road was four miles away. Soon we settled down to some dinner and chit chat getting to know each other. But then the sound returned. Over and over. Mark recognized it as something he experienced recently on his previous trip and described in this trip report. His description of it being similar to a whale song isn’t far off. I would say some type of mix between a jet afterburner and the wa-wa sound of a piece of steel reverberating when you shake it. The amazing thing is you could hear it travel several miles across the lake and back again in a matter of a few seconds. It was loud enough to interrupt conversation. I found the whole phenomenon completely fascinating.
The next day we left camp early to see the “flyout”. The Bald Eagles tend to roost in the Bear Valley NWR and fly to the Lower Klamath and Tule Lake NWR to hunt during the day. The idea is that you can park along a road below the Bear Valley NWR and watch the eagles fly out en mass at dawn. So we set the alarms for Oh Dark Hundred and drove out to this dirt road and waited for the flyout. The temps were in the low 20’s.

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We counted a total of 12 eagles. We talked to a regular who said he had never seen so few in all his visits. In short, the flyout was a washout.
 
Since this was still more Bald eagles than I had seen ever in my life, we weren’t completely discouraged. So we headed over to the Lower Klamath NWR. We stopped in a large pull out area with a distant view of Mt. Shasta to have some breakfast.

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Then we drove this area checking out the eagles, hawks, Tundra Swans, and several types of ducks.

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Dang those last two for hiding behind branches.
 
Anyway, Donna and I had hoped to visit Crater Lake as part of our trip over the holidays but the weather kept us away. Since we were only an hour and a half away, we headed north to try again this weekend. MarkBC must have decided I'm not as bad as DD makes me out to be as he decided to join us for another night. We found a nice campsite on Annie Creek not far from the National Park and settled in.

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The next morning we woke to a light snow. After breakfast Mark headed home and we headed to Crater Lake. The snow increased a little as we neared the National Park, but the wind picked up a lot. So by the time we got there, it was rather cold and the view was a bit obscured so we didn’t see a point to spending a lot of time here.

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We had some lunch and started to make our way south towards home. We never saw a temp above freezing that day. We pulled into Howard’s Gulch campground in the late afternoon. This is another nice stopover campground that we like and have never seen another person there. It was 27 degrees. Fortunately, Modoc NF had been doing some maintenance and left several stacks of rounds from trees they had cleared.

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We built a nice fire and settled in for the evening. That night the heater ran more often than not. We found out why when we left camp the next morning.

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Overall we felt the trip was a success. While it was a low year as far as the number of eagles in the area, at one point we saw seven of them together which is more than I had ever seen before in my life. We enjoyed meeting and getting to know another WTW member. We found some new places to camp and experienced the fascinating sounds of a frozen lake. And we got to cross one more item off our bucket list. Life is good. :D
 
Yet again another nice trip report from Ted. I'm going to have to camp at a frozen lake, the noises sound interesting.
 
Ted, glad you two had another fine trip. Thanks for the nice photos and trip report. The sounds of lake ice are especially exciting to hear as you are skiing across the middle of a large lake.
 
Ditto on the report Ted.Great pictures.That noise from the ice cracking is so eery .I have been on frozen lakes back in Pennsylvania and experienced the pressure cracking,some strange noises.Kind of scary but if you stop to thing that the ice is several feet thick it puts the mind somewhat at ease.

Kind of a bummer about the number of eagles though.They need to write a disclaimer about visiting the area.What happened to the 1000's of eagles that were going to be there?

Enjoyed the pics.
Frank
 
Sounds like a good trip to me. Thank goodness for our campers and heaters at 9F :oops:
That beats our current camper record of 11F at Benton Station.

I've seen the most eagles up in Oregon, where my parents used to live. They are magnificent birds, in any quantity. Glad you were able to see them like that. Maybe next year we will get to visit this area. [adding to ever-lengthening-Bucket-List]
 
Ted -
Thanks for the write-up. Yes it was good to meet you two, too.
I haven't edited/processed my photos from that trip yet...but I might have a couple worth sharing.

That Lower Klamath/Tule Lake/Bear Valley area we visited has the biggest winter concentration of bald eagles in the 48-states...even if it wasn't too impressive when we were there.
But when you visit that 49th state this summer, if you're near the coast, you'll see plenty more...probably enough to easily beat your current record. (Years ago I took the Alaska State Ferry from Prince Rupert to Skagway, and I remember seeing lots of bald eagles perched on trees next to the water.)
 
Thanks for the photos and report, Ted. Here in the Arkansas River Valley we also have eagles during the winter, but nothing like up there where you-all were visiting. Thanks again for the report!
 
Ted-Someone else that's been to Laufman CG! Its seems like that place is always cold and shady even during the summer. If you have the time sometime , continue on up the road (also one further west) and get on top there are lots of roads up there than let you explore the high country south to Beckworth or West to Greenville, wouldn't want to try it during the winter though! Glad you guys got to see some Eagles, they always made working in that area fun:LOL:, when I had the time (always on breaks never while I was working:LOL:)I would always park on the lower loop road in the Lower Klamath WLR and watch the birds. Sure looks cold though-despite having an arctic pack and a heater-but everything seems colder now that I'm getting older.


Smoke
 
Thanks for the comments folks. I googled frozen lake sounds and found some recordings but they were made with underwater microphones so while you get the general idea, they sound more like laser guns to me. And 9 degrees was our first time into single digits.

Mark, looking forward to your photos. Hopefully the long exposure shots at night turn out. Plus your bird shots should be good with the telephoto lens. Yes, I'm man enough to admit it - Mark has better equipment. ;)

Smoke, I have noticed that the road continues above Laufman and it looks like a good place to explore. But when we stay here it is always on the way to somewhere further down the road. We'll have to do a shorter trip one of these days and check out the area.
 
Ted we stopped at Howard's Gulch on our way home from our Alaska trip last sept.We didn't stay though wanted to get a little further down the road I remember those same rounds there.Instead we spent the night at Willow Creek may be 20 or so miles south. Nice quiet place. I remember seeing that Laufman CG when we have driven 395 always thought about looking it up to get some info.So now we know.

Yea those ice "booms" can be quite unnerving .Thanks again for the pictures.Don't fret about not seeing many eagles.When you get up north they will be lots of them and closer
to view.

Frank
 
Thanks for the comments folks. I googled frozen lake sounds and found some recordings but they were made with underwater microphones so while you get the general idea, they sound more like laser guns to me. And 9 degrees was our first time into single digits.

Mark, looking forward to your photos. Hopefully the long exposure shots at night turn out. Plus your bird shots should be good with the telephoto lens. Yes, I'm man enough to admit it - Mark has better equipment. ;)

Smoke, I have noticed that the road continues above Laufman and it looks like a good place to explore. But when we stay here it is always on the way to somewhere further down the road. We'll have to do a shorter trip one of these days and check out the area.

Guys

That's the problem, you just don't have the time to explore all those roads and what's at the end of where that sign points. You're always going somewhere else and vaca and weekends are only so. long. I was really lucky that my job let me play out there as much as I did. Made a new rule when I retired, if i saw a sign pointing out something interesting, saw point on a map-I went and looked:cool:! No weekends, holidays or time deadlines and a whole new world to explore-still looking, wait until you retire-the world will be waiting!

Smoke
 
Mark, looking forward to your photos. Hopefully the long exposure shots at night turn out. Plus your bird shots should be good with the telephoto lens. Yes, I'm man enough to admit it - Mark has better equipment. ;)

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Well...anyway...see here for a few of photos from my view of this trip.
 
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