Mounting solar panel

[Lobster]

Got my new grandby shell and beginning to build it.
Got a 160 watt solar panel, some Z aluminum attached, and about to mount on the roof.
Jason at American RV said to mount racks first then mount panel to racks.
I wasn't going to get racks, thinking about just screwing through the Z bar into the aluminum supports running lengthwise under my one piece roof. Self tapping screws and some 5200.
Thought I'd better throw this out there before drilling any holes. Thoughts-ideas??
Thanks, Jim

 

[rando]

3M VHB tape.

 

[Lobster]

Hadn't heard of that before but just watched a few video demonstrations. Impressive stuff.

 

[BFH4N]

Screwing directly to the roof would probably require fewer holes in the roof. Tracks would allow the collector to be removed, for whatever reason, without leaving holes in the roof (tracks remains in place). If used, and if they extend beyond the collector, tracks could be used to carry other stuff. Tracks would allow a little air space below the collector, which could reduce collector temperature and increase output.

If you use tracks, a strip of 3M VHB tape below it, stainless screws and backup caulk along the sides with 3M 4000UV would be pretty good insurance against leaks, I would think. This is pretty much how FWC did the track install on my Fleet (silicone instead of 4000UV).

- Bernard

 

[rando]

Many people have been using just the VHB tape without putting holes in their roof with no issues - it is how AM Solar recommends mounting panels: http://amsolar.com/diy-rv-solar-instructions/edmounts/

If you have z-bars with larger contact area to the roof than the feet AM-Solar uses your bond will be even stronger.

 

[ski3pin]

Many people have been using just the VHB tape without putting holes in their roof with no issues - it is how AM Solar recommends mounting panels: http://amsolar.com/diy-rv-solar-instructions/edmounts/

If you have z-bars with larger contact area to the roof than the feet AM-Solar uses your bond will be even stronger.

rando, thanks for this information.

 

[Lobster]

The interesting aspect of the one piece roof seems that the only connection points are the perimeter screws. As I press the wide expanses of the roof it's clear there are large areas of movement up and down where no bonding occurs. If I tape the Z bar without adding screws, (tempting) it will only be attached to the skin. If I add some ( even a few ) screws I can incorporate the structural aluminum underneath and help hold the roof down. I also read other posts about 'Oil Canning' with these new roofs and wonder which method (screws and tape or just tape) would promote r remedy the 'oil canning'. Thanks again for the helpful input, jim

 

[rando]

I might be wrong on this - but I think the aluminium roof skin is bonded to the frame with VHB tape and additionally screwed around the perimeter. I don't think adding screws would change anything.

 

[Happyjax]

That is good info. Thanks x2

 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

When I mounted my panels in 2010 I just mounted them to the factory rack.
The factory rack bottom cross bars allow the panels to sit 1" above the roof so water and heat don't build up.
This has worked for me since installation.

No need to drill holes into the roof as the panels are mounter directly to the rack.
Frank

 

[buckland]

Many people have been using just the VHB tape without putting holes in their roof with no issues - it is how AM Solar recommends mounting panels: http://amsolar.com/diy-rv-solar-instructions/edmounts/

If you have z-bars with larger contact area to the roof than the feet AM-Solar uses your bond will be even stronger.

I'd like to thank you random as well. I will no doubt be seeking these out.

 

[RC Pilot Jim]

3M VHB tape.is what I used to mount our Renogy 26 pound 150 watt panel. Its been up there 13 months now. I check the adhesion once a month - solid as ever. Renogy recomended 6 mounting "plates". I used 8. 6 would have been enough.

Mounted full time I'm driving about 700 miles a month.

 

[Squatch]

I might be wrong on this - but I think the aluminium roof skin is bonded to the frame with VHB tape and additionally screwed around the perimeter. I don't think adding screws would change anything.

That's the way they are built. But when I added my roof rack brackets it was clear that the skin was no longer bonded to the ribs. I figure this is common.

 

[rustytinbender]

I mounted my 160 watt panel last year without penetrating the roof. I used channel brackets and added an angle clip to the other side of the channel on the bottom to create more surface area in contact with the roof. 5 brackets on each side - made sure they were above the support ribs. I used an epoxy for the 4 corner brackets. On the 6 inside brackets I used a small piece of 3m tape surrounded by clear silicone caulk. The tape only needs to hold until the caulk sets up. It is rock solid and I put over 5,000 miles on it traveling the country last year.