My New FWC Order!

Ramblinman

Ramblinman

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2011
Messages
506
Location
Alberta, Canada
So after countless hours of researching ... mostly on the net ... and traveling to Sacramento to visit both FWC and ATC this is what I have come up with. I am driving my G/F crazy. She says to just freaking order already!

I will use the camper to Hunt, Fish, and to travel around to find new places to hunt and fish. There will be lots of conventional camping with the G/F and two Dogs. I hope to make it to all the great places showcased on this forum. I also hope to use this in to my retirement which is hopefully about 15 yrs away.

I chose FWC over ATC because IMO FWC produces a slightly more advanced camper in that the newest modifications address old problems. They also seem to use more modern materials. I went to see the guys at ATC who were fantastic. There is no doubt that ATC makes a fantastic product and like everyone says those guys are great. I live in Canada and feel that a FWC will be more appropriate for the following reasons:
1. Warranty - There is at least a distributor in Vancouver, BC
2. Name recognition in the event I want to sell
3. FWC seems to have addressed the little inadequacies and are slightly more advanced with regard to building materials/techniques
4. Canadian Distributor will deliver to my house!
5. FWC has a couple more options I think that I would enjoy.

I chose new over used for the following reasons:
1. I can't drop what I am doing and travel for at least 3 days to pick up a used FWC
2. I am not interested in searching for used FWC's every day all day for months on end :D
3. There are some benefits to new .. as I see it. (BTW I never purchased a new vehicle or anything similar. I am actually quite frugal.)
4. Again, I can have the FWC delivered to my house

Options:

I chose most of the options I am not very handy at installing this stuff and it seems to me that most FWC Owners are always plotting and planning to add this and add that. I think it is probably better to have the factory install properly right off the starting line. I hope that a healthy option load will also add to resale value. I do want the camper to be comfortable. I think that this will keep me using it more.


Roll Over Couch
- I sat in the Dinette and found it to be extremely small. My knees touched the salesman's while we sat at the table. I do not think it will work for me. Besides I could not see out the window as it sits lower than the table. I also like the idea of using the camper in stealth mode and expect to use it in this manner.

Mechanical Camper Jacks w/ Brackets (4 corner) $ 595.00

Jack Brackets Only (aluminum) $ 275.00

Compressor 110 Liter Refrigerator/Freezer $ 1,390.00
-This is a tough one and an expensive option. Especially because it seems that a Solar panel is required. Again it will be too late to add a bigger fridge later. I hope that it will allow for more storage and will run as described in this forum. This one really hurts. At the end of the day I think the larger cold storage will be more useful and hopefully allow me to stay away from packing coolers.

Forced Air Furnace w/ Thermostat $ 495.00

Flush Mount Glass Top Appliance Upgrade (sink & stove) $ 600.00
- Man this is expensive. Can anyone tell me why.? I like it but $600.00 ... come on! I may scratch this one last minute.

Hot Water Heater / Outside Shower Package $ 595.00
-Yup I like my showers and it should be handy for the dogs and doing dishes and stuff like that. I realize that it will likely be the first thing to break.

DSI Option (electric start for the hot water heater) $ 155.00

Electric Water Pump $ 95.00

Power Roof Vent Fan (Fan-Tastic Fan) $ 295.00 x 2
-Two vents? Some in the know have scoffed at this. But, it should be nice to keep the air moving, keep me cool in the summer and hopefully keep that condensation down????

Extra Roof Vent $ 195.00

Screen Door $ 235.00

8' Side Awning $ 695.00
- I hope that this does not get torn off while moving through those tight spots

Rain Rafter for Awning (removable rain support) $ 49.00

Auxiliary Side Awning Light $ 45.00

Rear Awning $ 345.00

Aluminum Luggage/Boat Rack $ 235.00

Standard Length Yakima "Tracks Only On Roof" 60" $ 165.00
- Only the tracks for now. Mainly for versatility. I should be able to add the extras later without issue.

Rear Wall Steps $ 195.00

85 Watt Solar Panel w/ Charge Controller $ 995.00

LED Interior Lights (upgrade) $ 150.00
- I am still struggling with this one. I know that LED technology is changing and I am worried about not being able to get the bulbs that would fit in the incandescent fixtures ... I would like to have the red light option though.

Rear Flood Lights (LED) $ 395.00
- Damn LED is so expensive
Rear Flood Lights (Halogen) $ 165.00

LED Exterior Lighting Package $ 250.00

Arctic Package (Cold Weather Insulation) $ 475.00
- Cause it is already done and I cannot sew.

Auxiliary Battery System (wiring, separator, battery) $ 475.00

2nd Deep Cycle Battery (dual camper battery set up) $ 180.00

Gas Strut Roof Lift Assists $ 250.00

Ready To Go Anywhere Starter Package $ 195.00

Drill Bit Adaptor for the Mechanical Camper Jacks $ 39.00

I am ordering now so it can make it to my house by April.

Please comment where you feel appropriate. This is a huge expense for me. I do value all the input those have offered during previous posts. I really do want to do this right the first time.

Thanks!
 
I just picked up my new Hawk a couple weeks ago. I went through the same kind of decisions. It's a HUGE purchase in my book, but so well worth it. I plan on keeping my camper for as long as I can get out at wander the woods, so it doesn't bug me.

Couch -- I went with the rollover because I too felt the dinette was way too scrunchy. I'm 6'2" and not getting any thinner. I like that I can lean up against the front wall of the camper and stretch my legs out across the couch and look out the windows. I feel the rollover is more usable.

Refer -- I went with a Waeco compressor fridge, and the two nights I've been out so far in my camper, the thing came on pretty infrequently, tho yes it is fall/winter so that's a given. I'll see how it is in the summer. I went with two 79ah batteries, and glad I did. I think if I were out camping for more than 3-4 nights, then I would want to have solar or fire up my Honda gen.

Fan -- I think this is a necessity. I just went with one.

Hot Water- My previous camper (trailer) had the manual start hot water and lighting it was a hassle sometimes, so I went with DSI , so nice. I plan on it being very handy to have a hot shower when I'm out remote.

Lighting -- I don't know yet about the LED lighting yet, some of it is very nice and bright, but the installations I've seen seem not to diffuse well. At pitch dark night, it might be sufficient, but in dimly lit stormy days where there's some light, the LED doesn't seem to really brighten up the camper much. I went with fluorescent fixtures, and just run one of them when I need to. Both fluorescent fixtures on provides tons of very usable light. After market LED fixtures can be put in the bed area for reading, I think I'll be doing that. I found the rear flood lights are great. I don't think they'll ever be something that I run for any length of time, but instead will be run for short periods of time where I'll need reliable super bright light outside- so I just chose the halogen.

Drill bit adapter-- nice to have to get the jacks down to the ground fast, or back up fast. I use the hand cranks though (one person on each side) while lifting or lowering the camper.

Racks -- I went with full length Yakima rails-- I like the flexibility of having the towers maneuverable for the whole length of the camper. I did check out the aluminum racks, but I noticed that are not tall enough if you plan to install a solar panel later. If you put a kayak or boat the full length of the camper , it won't sit higher than the solar panel with the factory aluminum rack. The Yakima towers and bars will though.

I say go for as much as you can afford-- it's a special purchase. Depending on your vehicle, I'd keep an eye on some of the options for weight. I have a 2010 F150, and with some rear suspension help, it handles nicely.
 
My response: Cry once. Buy good tools. I'm not convinced solar beats a Honda...


Dough! You bring up an excellent point! That throws a wrench in my plan ... A Generator would be so much more versatile in that I could use it a number of places. Son of a gun I did not think of that ....

Keith J, you make a valid point as well ... Will the Solar interfere with mounting things on the roof? I do like the luggage rack as I expect to store stuff up there?

Stan any comments?
 
I think the flush mount appliances are worth it. You don't have much counter space and it's nice to be able to put a lid down on the sink or stove and use that as additional counter space. They aren't more expensive just cuz their flush either, the SMEV appliances are just a lot nicer than others.
 
I think the flush mount appliances are worth it. You don't have much counter space and it's nice to be able to put a lid down on the sink or stove and use that as additional counter space. They aren't more expensive just cuz their flush either, the SMEV appliances are just a lot nicer than others.


DD, Please excuse my ignorance, but the flush sink/stove combo is made by "Cramer." Is this the same animal as SMEV. $600.00 is a lot of dough for more counter space. This said, I do not have any experience with the little space in the FWC.

Thanks for your input. Please elaborate if you don't mind.
 
DD, Please excuse my ignorance, but the flush sink/stove combo is made by "Cramer." Is this the same animal as SMEV. $600.00 is a lot of dough for more counter space. This said, I do not have any experience with the little space in the FWC.

Thanks for your input. Please elaborate if you don't mind.


Its the same. I believe Dometic bought SMEV in the last few years. I've never heard them called Cramer but I looked online and they are the same line from Dometic. I should start calling them Dometic I suppose.
 
$600.00 is a lot of dough for more counter space.



Again, you aren't just buying more counter space, you are buying higher quality appliances.
 
Congrats on the order. Your list looks like all good choices. I thought there were only two vents max but you list two power vents and an extra roof vent. Three total or am I misunderstanding something?
 
Congrats on the order. Your list looks like all good choices. I thought there were only two vents max but you list two power vents and an extra roof vent. Three total or am I misunderstanding something?


Just the two vents. I sent Stan and e-mail asking if the would instal the Fantastic 6600. People seem to speak highly of them.
 
No, it's not going to hurt......it is going to feel so good!

Looks like you've done your homework and are getting something to suit your needs. Congrats!
 
Keith J, you make a valid point as well ... Will the Solar interfere with mounting things on the roof? I do like the luggage rack as I expect to store stuff up there?


I think you just need to make sure that whatever you put on your roof rack clears (height-wise) the solar panel. I went to FWC and measured the height of an installed solar panel vs the height of the aluminum rack and the rack is lower, which would cause issues if you had to span something across. The Yakima system with towers and bars sits higher and would clear the solar panel in those situations you have to put something up on the roof that had to go over the solar panel during transport.

If you just always made a point to never put something on the roof that spanned over the solar panel, then you'd be fine, but I just want to have something that works in all situations.

I saw you posted something about solar vs generator in another thread. My thought since I've used a Honda EU2000i while camping over the past few years is that it's OK to run for a bit to get your batteries up a little, but to really charge your batteries, I think you'd have to run the generator for quite a while. The nice thing about solar is that it's always working as long as there is sun, and it's silent. Love that. I am looking at the Kyocera 135 watt. Tho I am wondering the best way to attach it to the roof (how to attach to the aluminum rails underneath the aluminum roof)...
 
Keith, What would you consider Sun? Will overcast and Rain negate the sunlight that does exist?


Not sure, I don't know a ton about these solar panels. My guess is that the amount of power that the panel produces is just less if the sun/light isn't direct and bright. And if there is some light , like on an overcast day, I would assume it would still produce power, but how much, I don't know.
 
Not sure, I don't know a ton about these solar panels. My guess is that the amount of power that the panel produces is just less if the sun/light isn't direct and bright. And if there is some light , like on an overcast day, I would assume it would still produce power, but how much, I don't know.


Just Google'd it but didn't comb through the results --

http://www.solarhome.org/solarpanelsfaqs.html#faq8

"A cloudy day provides sufficient diffuse light by which the panel will produce electricity. Optimum electrical production occurs with bright and sunny weather conditions. Under a light overcast, the modules might produce about half as much as under full sun, ranging down to as little as five to ten percent under a dark overcast day. "

I suppose panels are different too in their efficiency and ability to turn light into energy. I think it's good to note too that panels produce energy from light, not from heat, so hot sun is not a requirement, but looks like diffused sunlight like on an overcast days reduces the power production quite a bit.
 
Congratulation.

You have done your homework, picked everything you want, weighed cost against convenience, comfort and quality. Writing the cheque only hurts for a minute but the enjoyment and stories last for a lifetime.

My wife and I are in exactly the same position. We will be putting in our order in sometime in the next couple of weeks. Maybe we'll meet somewhere on the road in western Canada.
 
Not to be redundant from the other thread. IF THERE ARE UV RAYS STRIKING THE PANEL IT WILL MAKE POWER. How much depends on the type panel and the amount of uv rays that the panel is collecting.And you have the benefit of no noise and making power all the time the sun is up.
Frank
 
Not to be redundant from the other thread. IF THERE ARE UV RAYS STRIKING THE PANEL IT WILL MAKE POWER. How much depends on the type panel and the amount of uv rays that the panel is collecting.And you have the benefit of no noise and making power all the time the sun is up.
Frank

And as I said on the other thread, "make power", yes, but power produced under heavy clouds can/will be a small fraction of what is produced under full sun. Like, a 70watt panel may only produce 15 watts if the sun is hidden by full clouds...at least, that's what mine has done.

This is why solar panels on homes are more common in the desert than in the Pacific Northwest. If it didn't make much difference than they'd be as common in damp climates.

And, from what I've read, it's visible light, not UV light, that makes PV panels go. This makes a difference since visible light is blocked by clouds more than UV is.

But for people who don't spend much time camping in cloudy or shady locations, solar is great -- and that's why I use it.
 
My response: Cry once. Buy good tools. I'm not convinced solar beats a Honda...


Please give our planet a break from those nasty things and upgrade to this lightweight 100 watt panel then:

http://www.amsolar.com/home/amr/page_13/gs100.html

Seriously, it is 2011 and generators are SO 1911....

I have a killer 235 watt system on mine with a nice AC/DC fridge/freezer ( 65 quart version of yours ) that just rocks, two batteries now too.

Check'r out:

http://kodachromeproject.com/blog/
 
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