My trip to the Sheldon NWR

craig333

Riley's Human
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Jan 12, 2007
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I had a decent start, hit the road and hit up Jack in the Box for a breakfast burrito. Hmmm, why not get an extra and microwave it later? So I did. Saw a few burners heading up 80 (the caravansary in the rear window gave it away) and then stopped in Fernley for fuel. I had 16mpg which isn't too bad for a full load and uphill. Had a nice wait for construction on 447. A lot more burners heading up now. One vehicle had a round propane musta held 500 gallons (wild ass guess) and a dozen or so nozzles on the roof. Must be impressive at night. Unfortunately it seems one car may have been indulging a bit soon as he was going 15 in the 25 zones and 45 in the 70 zone. Needless to say I never saw him again.

Arrived in Gerlach intending to get fuel and food. There was a line at the gas station so I passed. Bruno's was also packed plus the dog howled when I went inside so no food either. Lots of cops in town and I chatted with one while giving the dog some exercise. I thought it was just people coming up early, I didn't know about the pre-burn as the sheriff described it. Makes sense though, takes a lot of work to get ready for 69k people. He also assured me I'd be done with them once I was past the playa. The pre-burn could have been mistaken for the real thing. I need a telephoto lens (noticed this more than once this trip) but you can make out the burning man already completed.

I had no idea there is petrified wood along the road.


Obligatory truck shot.

For an area as vast and desolate as it was along 34 I was surprised to see so many campers along the way. I made to Sheldon in 8 hours, just about what I expected.



The first campground I came to was almost full. I wasn't expecting this and I wanted to let the dog off leash after eight hours of truck time so I exited the park and found a nice spot along a spur. A guy towing a trailer came along and camped about a quarter mile down the road. I went down and chatted with him. Thats when he informed me Antelope season was opening friday morning. Ah ha, that explains all the campers. A nice sunrise looking towards Sheldon.

Now that breakfast burrito I mentioned earlier, it came foil wrapped so I though, why not heat it up on the barbecue. So I did, on the upper rack, low heat and took a walk while I drank my coffee. I came back and uh, well it turns out it was foil coated paper. I got that off.

So half a cup of coffee as a timer next time but I liked how it came out even if I did have to use a knife and fork. I'll do that again for sure just being sure to rewrap in real foil first.

On the way in I saw Antelope, lots of them.
 
I headed on over to Virgin Valley. Interesting geology there.

I'm now well under half a tank of fuel so I headed into Denio, conveniently forgetting its Shields that has fuel. Probably should have driven the extra distance but I didn't. Back into Sheldon for my next camp.

I'm the only non hunter here but everyone was very friendly. Riley enjoyed a run behind the camp. Even chased a couple Antelope. I would have leashed him if I'd thought I'd find some that close to camp. Luckily he only chased them about a hundred yards before giving up. Yuma would have chased them halfway across the refuge. Lots of obsidian (rattlesnakes too) fortunately neither the dog nor the truck got cut.



For the first time since carrying a five gallon fuel can I dumped that into the tank. Made me feel a lot better about making it to Cedarville. I tried to get the dog to swim in Catnip reservoir but he passed.

Lots more Antelope on the way out especially in the no hunting zone. Btw, one hunter told me there are only 42 tags issued for the NWR.

I took the drive up Bald Mountain to the lookout. Highly recommended.



I gave a shout on the ham radio while I was up there, managed to talk to someone in Alturas on 146.520 Oddly the lookout is on Yelow Peak. Wasn't manned today but its fully functional.
More desolate country up there but its not empty. You never know whats under the ground.

After fueling up in Cedarville and gawking at more burners I made it to my next camp. I actually found this place while looking around on Google Earth.


I had it all to myself at first till one shady looking character showed up. Fortunately he didn't stay. Another guy show up, says he's from the trinity alps but knows this area pretty well. I could tell when he mentioned the white pine ranch (the road follows it for what seems like forever) and said he really likes the Hays Range. Later he broke out the banjo, pretty good too. This place even had water.

Only five campsites but its mostly an access site to the South Warner Wilderness.

I got up early to hit the road and venture back on home. Burners scattered all along the Surprise Valley road. I didn't want to go through Gerlach again and I almost thought I'd have to when I finally found my dirt road heading to Ravendale. Much further than I thought. Buckhorn road and or 502 I think it was. Then it was 395 to 70, on over to Sierraville and on home down 80. 950 miles. No earthquakes that I felt.

P.S. I never did get to try any night shots. First night was cloudy, second the wind was even rocking the camper, the third I just went to bed too early.

I almost forgot. First night it cooled off to a nice 50 degrees. Second night it was 35 in the camper with a bit of frost outside. I tried to fire up the heater. No response. Jumped the wires on the thermostat. Blower came on but no spark. So I have a project now. Before the rally hopefully.
 
I've never been to that lookout...have to check it out. That gas line ("what's under the ground") starts in Wyoming, I think. They were working on that for a long time...

Feel any earthquakes while you were there?

Thanks for sharing, Craig. :)
 
Emerson looks like a nice camp on the Southern Warners, just far enough out of the pre-burn effect. :cautious:
Nice looking dog!

We've taken the Buckhorn BLM byway from south of Cedarville back to 395. We saw a few mustangs and enjoyed the ride.

Thanks for sharing your trip. There will be other opportunities to do some night photography ;)
 
I was going to email the Washoe County road department to complement them on the condition of the dirt roads but it seems I'd have to call or send a letter. How quaint. Very little washboard encountered. What I did find was in the refuge and heading to Cedarville which may have been on the CA side.

I forgot to mention my "incident". Leaving my first camp I double checked the propane, made sure all latches were latched and walked the site twice before I left. On 140 I stopped at the rest stop. What I hadn't done was double check the latches inside the camper. All my stuff was on the floor. Not a major disaster except my water container leaked and a full roll of paper towels became a useless mess.

It seems they've really rounded up the wild horses. I saw probably less than a half dozen and every one of those were solo.

We know the Stolpas were stupid but after actually seeing the area (I didn't try and find the exact spot) I'm even more boggled why anyone would do that in winter. Just insane. Its inhospitable country in the summer.

This area and land like it really remind me just how vast this country is. Oddly enough I don't get that feeling nearly so much driving down 395 or pretty much anywhere where its broken up with towns and "stuff". I'm sure glad I could do 55 (or more) on much of the dirt roads.

Was tough to work today, my mind was still on Antelope and open country.

I never saw a single refuge employee. I was questioned by a Game Warden who was checking out the hunters.
 
craig333 said:
....We know the Stolpas were stupid but after actually seeing the area (I didn't try and find the exact spot) I'm even more boggled why anyone would do that in winter. Just insane. Its inhospitable country in the summer. ...
Well, "in a hurry and needed a shortcut" was what I heard (according to the made-for-TV-movie story).
Maybe they saw that the roads -- 8A and 34 - were county roads, so assumed that meant "OK".
But yes, insanely stupid.

But there are been others who've done similar in the past few years -- taken a remote, snow-covered road thinking "this must be the way" and gotten stuck and died.

This area and land like it really remind me just how vast this country is. Oddly enough I don't get that feeling nearly so much driving down 395 or pretty much anywhere where its broken up with towns and "stuff".
Absolutely! :)
 
MarkBC said:
But there are been others who've done similar in the past few years -- taken a remote, snow-covered road thinking "this must be the way" and gotten stuck and died.
Many times when highway 50 is closed (gate gets closed near where we live) due to storm or avalanche control and I'm running my snowblower up near the county road, cars continually stop and ask me, "Is this the alternate route?" I was confused until I noticed at the end of every road closure report California Department of Transportation states "use alternate route." They should stop that practice as these insert noun of choice here drive down any road believing it must be the "alternate route".
 
Craig

Looks like you had a nice trip: brought back allot of memories of working that country for those 25 years -ya didn't see where me and Wandering Sagebrush had our propane adventure-did you-it must be marked with some type of monument by now! I walked, camped and drove that country year round and it still amazes me that someone-an active army troop to boot-could not only take that road in the middle of the winter on a recommendation of someone in a gas station(with no food, etc., and driving a a 2 wheel drive pu to boot), and then not stop and turn around when he hit the snow-maybe they don't train these new troops like i was trained or maybe common sense is not required the the 1990's army. Anyway, you had fun and thats what counts. But you do have to watch out for the hunter folk-drinking is one thing, but a drunk from LA/the bay area with a gun can make walking in that country with a dog a dangerous proposition. We never brought our dogs out to the field during hunting season and kept a close watch on our horses too-ya know Mule Deer-true story).

I did get waylaid on the way up to the Sheldon last week-- while at Eagle Lake-first some of my new toys needed some refinement before they worked and a phone call from my sister cut my trip short and sent me back to Susanville to pack more stuff , so glad you took lot's of pictures. My dad is sick again, so I'm heading north to Pasco-after all he's 90 so you never know what will happen next-just waiting for a medical update before i head out-hopefully before Labor Day Weekend (sorry I'm not trying a hijack here-just part of another the life WTW adventure)..

Eagle Lake is really down-some long term locals say it has not been this low since the 1930's. Met a girl from Canada heading up to the burning man-knew that she could camp for free at Rocky Point at Eagle Lake-small world. Enough water still for "Bob" to get a few swims and some ball chasing.The no seeums where killers up there too, Again thanks for the pictures and sorry I missed ya-maybe next time.

Smoke
 
No bugs on my trip. I figure the Antelope hunt on the NWR is pretty safe. Very few tags so people spend years trying to get drawn and when they do its serious hunting time. Thats the way it was with the group I was camped nearby. Very quiet, if they were drinking they kept it very mellow. Need to stay sober to get up before dawn to hunt as these guys did. Now general deer season, yeah that one scares me a bit more.
 
Looks like the dog had a good time! I like that shelter you have for the dog, do you have a link? Nice country, thanks for the report.
 
The dog shelter is from Paha Que. Unfortunately they stopped making them. I actually emailed the company and suggested they bring it back since I get so many inquiries about it. They said they were giving it some consideration. Riley had a great time.
 
Thanks for the info. Too bad it's not available. Ours is fine but sits on the ground which is problematic in rain/mud. I like how that one is up off the ground.
 
We were in the area last April/May. I have a TR on my blog. We ventured down a few dirt roads off 34 and found several springs. The petrified wood was all over, if you look closely at the hillsides. We found a fe wApache tears then found out they were from a state road maintenance site. One of my favorite areas from Cedarville to Gerlach on the back roads. That ranch is HUGE and lots of No Trespassing signs posted. No cattle but stoutly fenced. Write off or cattle elsewhere?
 
The guy I met at the campground claimed the owner of the ranch intends to sell the water to Reno. No idea if that has any validity. So many roads to explore if I'd only had more time /sigh. Especially the ones that say "trucks turn around now, steep narrow road etc".
 
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