Need solar controller recommendation

[billharr]

You could go with this, it's a MPPT controler that is rated to 200 watts according to it's specs.
It simply plugs right into the same spot and wires where your other Sunsaver is. It also has a jack where you can plug in their version of a volt meter which they call a remote meter. That's what I did, very easy install. I'll add another 90 watt panel to the roof soon. There's pretty good deal on ebay for both the units together.
http://www.morningstarcorp.com/products/sunsaver-mppt/

This meter is a perfect example of why Solar Bob says an MPPT controller is not needed on small systems. Cheapest I could find this 15 amp controller was $195 add another $40 to $50 for the remote meter. Yes it might get 10% more from your 200 watt panels. But for the same $$ or less you can buy a 3rd 100w panel and a 30 amp MWP controller, at 30% increase.

EDIT: if you disregard the cost there is no question an MPPT is a better controller.

 

[longhorn1]

I have been e-mailing Brenda and the solar plug on the back of my camper is wired to the Zamp solar controller. I'm considering purchasing the 80-watt Zamp portable to go with the 100-watt Zamp panel on my roof. She told me to get the portable panel without the controller. Looking to do this after the first of the year.

 

[RC Pilot Jim]

Don,
We have both solar plugs wired into one 20 amp controller. 3 - 100 watt panels only put in 17.1 amps total in summer (5.7 x3= s17.1).

 

[bsharp007]

Well I needed to upgrade anyway to put another panel up top. I think you're also disregarding the convenience of simply pluging into the existing wires and location. It was also very convenient to just plug the voltmeter into the back of the contoller, which I might add was much cheaper and easy to install than other models. The monitor does everything I need it to do, keeps track of amp hours, amps coming in and going out, battery condition and temperature etc.
If you want a more efficient MPPT controler AND a good battery monitor, it would be hard to beat the price I paid for both. I think it was just over $240. So you get a slightly more efficient controller and a system monitor.
Doesn't the Trimetric monitor cost about $150 alone, plus I believe you need a shunt. I'll bet solar Bob would say you don't need all those functions from a fancy and expensive monitor.
Here's the prices for a Trimetric monitor and a Morningside Controller (I would only put a controller of equal or better quality than stock)
Morningside 25 amp MWP controller: $105
Trimetric monitor: $150
100A Shunt: $25
Total: $280



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Just my 2 cents or $248 worth







This meter is a perfect example of why Solar Bob says an MPPT controller is not needed on small systems. Cheapest I could find this 15 amp controller was $195 add another $40 to $50 for the remote meter. Yes it might get 10% more from your 200 watt panels. But for the same $$ or less you can buy a 3rd 100w panel and a 30 amp MWP controller, at 30% increase.

EDIT: if you disregard the cost there is no question an MPPT is a better controller.

 

[BillM]

Holy crap! HandyBob sure is angry and has a huge ax to grind. However, having just finished reading most of his rants I have to say that he really makes a lot of sense. Using big enough wires, the shortest runs possible and charging the batteries to the battery manufacturers specs all seem like common sense to me but it appears that most solar installers (including 4wheel) don't do these things. I think reading his pages is going to save me from making a few mistakes and wasting some money. I'd recommend slogging through them if you are considering solar or think you need more panels on an existing system.

 

[Bignosecitrus]

Hi Everyone, Chris Phillips here.

Last year we had a Cougar built to go on a 2002 Ford Superduty with a 7.3 I included a circuit for Solar. What we have now is 130 watts of flexible -thin film panels (unisolar - they are indestructible and light weight ). The charge controller is a Morningstar Prostar 30 amp with the readout. I have it mounted outside of the battery compartment so I can see the state of charge, incoming amps and load amps. This feeds the pair of Lifeline ambulance 12v batteries ( way overkill at $400 per!) from there we go to a Xantrex 1800 pure sine inverter that feeds the "Solar" 120v circuit. With the 1800 wats I can run drill, saws etc.

My only experience with solar controllers is with Morningstar, never had one go bad. I have a cabin on Lopez Island in the San Juans
and went through the whole process of developing a robust small solar power system. The Unisolar thin film panels are unaffected by shade (except the portion shaded doesn't produce normal glass panels shut down with shading) and can't break if hit by tree limbs or whatever. the morningstar controllers are epoxy filled so no possibility of moisture damage and the pro series utilizes an equalization charge step that prevents sulfate bridging that kills batteries. The cabin runs off of a 600W xantrex inverter for lights, and entertainment (LED TV with built in DVD).

Note: the Unisolar 12v panels are hard to find but 24v are easy to find on Ebay and the Morningstar can be set for 12v or 24v.

So the Cougar charges by truck alternator, shore power or Solar. we can go 5 days with the refer going (it is a 2.7 cubic foot 120v) running on low with timer for stopping night time running and temp set at 38* with minimal solar (cloudy days).

So has been my experience.

Chris and Daydre'