New Electrical System

[Barko1]

Never heard the term "Wall Wart" before

From Wiki
The AC adapter, AC/DC adapter or AC/DC converter[1] is a type of external power supply, often enclosed in what looks like an over-sized AC plug. Other names include plug pack, plug-in adapter, adapter block, domestic mains adapter, line power adapter, or power adapter. Informal terms include wall wart, wall cube and power brick. AC adapters are typically used with electrical devices that do not contain their own internal power supply. The internal circuitry of an external power supply is very similar to the design that would be used for a built-in or internal supply, but there are several advantages of separating the power supply from the main body of the electronic device, as explained below.



Something to keep in mind for the LCD TV users, most I have seen and own run off 12VDC via a Wall Wart. Take a look at the back panel or the wall wart and it usually lists the input and output voltage and current. I toss most of my wall warts and run my gear off a 12V fuse panel from a 12VDC power supply at home. Works for campers also! You just have to gather the confidence to cut off the wire from the wall wart, or make your own replacement DC cable/plug.

When shopping for electronic gear I look for devices that run off 12V. Many run on 5V these days so look carefully. My DSL modem, wireless routers, LCD monitors, desk lamps and amplified computer speaker system all run off 12V. That is a lot of wall warts not robbing power, creating radio interference, and taking up space and crowding outlets.

 

[craig333]

Brings up a question I've been meaning to ask. Any downside to get say a 25 amp controller when you're only planning on a 6 amp panel (what I figure I'll start with) and having upgradeabiltity from the start?

 

[pods8]

Brings up a question I've been meaning to ask. Any downside to get say a 25 amp controller when you're only planning on a 6 amp panel (what I figure I'll start with) and having upgradeabiltity from the start?


There might be efficiency issues but I'm not familiar enough, something to check into though.

 

[scheefdog]

GoPower sells the 25 amp with their 80watt kit so I don't think there are any efficiency issues.

Leadsled- What did you buy for cables to connect your panel?

I realized the West Marine DC Electric Panel has 4-15 amp breakers built into the switches so I wouldn't need the fuse block making it even simpler. My one concern is that 15 amps might be too much for a couple of the circuits(seems like a 10amp fuse would be fine), however I'm just learning about electrical so maybe someone can advise me on this.

Would this be ok for one 15 amp circuit?
Vent Fans- 4 amps (1.8 amps each)
LED lights- 6 amps (2@.9 amps, 2 @1.8 amps)
Exterior LED Light- 2 amps

Is there a special way to ground everything on the camper?

 

[pods8]

Is there a special way to ground everything on the camper?


All the negatives go back to the negative battery terminal with wires rather than "grounding" them to a chassis frame.

 

[leadsled9]

GoPower sells the 25 amp with their 80watt kit so I don't think there are any efficiency issues.

Leadsled- What did you buy for cables to connect your panel?

I realized the West Marine DC Electric Panel has 4-15 amp breakers built into the switches so I wouldn't need the fuse block making it even simpler. My one concern is that 15 amps might be too much for a couple of the circuits(seems like a 10amp fuse would be fine), however I'm just learning about electrical so maybe someone can advise me on this.

Would this be ok for one 15 amp circuit?
Vent Fans- 4 amps (1.8 amps each)
LED lights- 6 amps (2@.9 amps, 2 @1.8 amps)
Exterior LED Light- 2 amps

Is there a special way to ground everything on the camper?


For the price you are paying for the controller...you might want to look into the "MPPT" controllers. They are much more efficient and will allow you to get the most out of your system.

My Hawk camper came pre-wired for the solar panel. FWC factory used 14 awg wires for the pre-wiring. I hooked up the 14 awg wiring to my charge controller and used 10 awg wire from the charge controller to the battery. I put a 20 amp fuse (as per installation instructions) in the positive lead close to the camper battery. The instructions did not call for it, but I also put a 20 amp fuse on the wiring from the panel to the charge controller.

If you have 4 breakers....why are you putting everything on one circuit? Split things up so if you blow a circuit breaker...you'll have some idea of where to troubleshoot.

I would use a ground bar to ground camper electrical, then run both positive and negative from the camper directly to the truck battery. Make sure you put a 30 amp circuit breaker (either auto reset or manual reset) close to the truck battery.

Make sure you have a battery separator like the Surepower 1314 to keep the camper battery separated from the truck battery (so you will never end up with a depleted truck battery). This is the unit that FWC uses for their factory installation. It has worked great for me.

There is another thread on this site about a fried electrical system. Interesting read for sure...and they may have just convinced me to add a fuse to the NEGATIVE side of the camper battery. I've never heard of that before but the thread does point out some good reasons why to do that.