New problem with my '05 Eagle - sheared off screws.

S

shear

Senior Member
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Mar 28, 2012
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So I seem to be having a ton of trouble with this camper now....maybe it's a lemon, who knows.

Basically here's what's happening: the 2 front side latches have had 2 screws shear off. Both are deep enough that I can't get to them with a needle nose. Anyone experience this? What should I do?

Here are pics:

IMG_0966.jpg


...and yes, I get the irony with my name on here as well. :cautious:
 
When latched do you still have some play in the roof. There should be some play in the roof. Strange that it is the bottom ones.

Have you shared this with Shaw at FWC? I would contact FWC for sure. What other issues?

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Wander The West mobile app
 
You could see if larger screws will hold or drill through and use a bolt with nut and washer on the inside.
 
I thought that there were some new type of latches too. When I had my 2001 Eagle in for replacing the vinyl, they said something that I had the "old style". I didn't inquire to what the "new style" was though.
 
Shear, you might try using an EZ Out, or even better, talk to a machine shop or similar to see if they would be able to back the screws out. Chances are they will come out, but having the right tools would make things much easier.
 
Since the cam-lock torques from the bottom it would be the lower 2 attaching screws that snapped. From the image it looks like you have so much force on the cam-lock that the roof is bulging downward. I would slack up on your adjustment screw. If an easy-out does not work due to corrosion-weld then just redrill the hole larger, retap and put in a bigger screw. I have had to do that with my rear door exit grab bar twice already.
 
Yeah...I think the owner before me ran into something that slightly bent the front of the camper...which I guess is causing the torque now. I'll loosen up the screw on the latch and then see if I can use an EZ out to get those screws out of there.

Definitely finding out that much of the hardware used on these older models doesn't have a terribly long shelf life. Also replaced all of the turnbuckles as I had 2 of those snap at the bolt down point to the camper.
 
You may be having issues now, but I suspect when you've resolved them, you'll have a great camper at much less than the price of a new rig. Hang in there!
 
Maybe it helps

You can try to drill out the broken screws with a smaller drill or go with Wandering Sagebrush (post #5)
You can drill new holes above the old ones (see picture)
You can relocate the toggle latch moving an inch sideways. But then you have to relocate the catch bracket as well!
 

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Have you tried removing the other two screws and then pull the bracket/plate off? Sometimes the broken screws are sticking up enough to grab them with a small vise-grip, or similar tool.
 
Alley-Kat said:
Have you tried removing the other two screws and then pull the bracket/plate off? Sometimes the broken screws are sticking up enough to grab them with a small vise-grip, or similar tool.
Click to expand...
I think Alley-Kat may have the best idea for an easy way of getting the screws out. I'd try his method before anything else.
 
You could take the whole assembly off (both halves) and move it over a bit. Drill new holes and fill the old holes with some good caulk.

- Bernard
 
FWC just did a similier repair to my 2015 Hawk. One of the lags sheared off of my front extension strut. They simply elongated the current hole and ran in a new lag screw next to the old one, worked perfect. Can't see ever getting the old lag out, without taking the roof apart. Moving the entire bracket over is also a good idea.
 
Having worked with EE's that insisted on overtightening screws till the heads broke off, I have lots of experience with removal.

Procedures as follows, in order of difficulty:
  1. If anything is sticking out, use a locking pliers; by far the easiest.
  2. If you can centerpunch, slowly drill out with a left hand twist drill. Usually slightly smaller than barrel of screw works best.
  3. If LH drill doesn't back screw out, completely drill out screw and use next larger size screw (if possible).
  4. If drilling doesn't work and you have the proper equipment and the screw is steel, you can spot weld an extension onto the screw and use it to back the screw out.
  5. Sometimes you can cut a slot in the screw and back it out that way, but it often will damage the surrounding material.
  6. If #1 doesn't work and you can reposition the screw, that is easier.
  7. If it is important enough to get the broken screw out, you sometimes have to take everything apart, build fixtures, use threats, cast spells, use voodoo or use other unorthodox methods.
jim
 
BrianG,

2015 Hawk? And it needed strut repair? Why do you think the mount failed? Excessive stress, design or assemble? Has FWC addressed the problem? Little nervous with our Hawk not due until Feb.

Thanks,

Phil
 
Wallowa said:
BrianG,

2015 Hawk? And it needed strut repair? Why do you think the mount failed? Excessive stress, design or assemble? Has FWC addressed the problem? Little nervous with our Hawk not due until Feb.

Thanks,

Phil
Click to expand...
FWC came to Woodburn & added steel reinforcement plates in a parking lot on my 2014 Hawk as part of a recall. Other than using mild steel which rusts, the repair has been fine. Keep in mind that your camper will have the reinforcement taken care of in manufacturing rather than retrofitted in the field and, IMHO, is likely to be stronger & less likely to over stress the screws. It can't be inexpensive to send a factory guy 500 miles to do repairs in the field so I expect there is strong incentive to get it right in manufacturing.

Paul
 
Two issues leading to this problem, 1. They're over tightening the lags at the factory, 2. They're using poor quality lags. FWC needs to find a better quality lag. My uncle is a mechanical engineer and he mentioned something like stainless. One other note concerning removal of the old lag, in order to find out the size of the lags, I removed one and was amazed how tight it was in there. Maybe someone here can recommend a high quality lag replacement. Just looked for the size lags I bought with no luck.
 
Brian,

Sorry to keep throwing questions your way. What exactly is a "poor quality lag" ? I ask this from a lack of knowledge on my part; I am aware of the strength grades in most fasteners such as the Grade 8s I use a lot...but why exactly did the lag fail?

Over tightening would result in pulling out or loosing of the lag. Did your uncle suggested SS because it resists corrosion? SS is often less strong that other steels.

Pault...Strut attachment plates have been 'Improved' but this lag screw/bolt is a different issue.

Thanks Again...Phil
 
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