New roof lifting struts installed on 2009 Hawk

[dorocks]

Greetings

Thanks to all the help on that extensive thread about roof lift struts, I got some and got them installed tonight. I opted for the side install for my 2009 Hawk. Nothing was in the way. I got the brackets from Maxum hardware that someone suggested. I got the Columbia struts off Ebay from the Strut your Stuff storefront. Got them for a little less than originally posted by making offers to the seller.

My boy and I did it in an hour or so. We were in no hurry. Used self tapping screws after pre-drilling with a small bit.

 

[dorocks]

Greetings

Thanks to all the help on that extensive thread about roof lift struts, I got some and got them installed tonight. I opted for the side install for my 2009 Hawk. Nothing was in the way. I got the brackets from Maxum hardware that someone suggested. I got the Columbia struts off Ebay from the Strut your Stuff storefront. Got them for a little less than originally posted by making offers to the seller.

My boy and I did it in an hour or so. We were in no hurry. Used self tapping screws after pre-drilling with a small bit.

I do have to seal the screws. I did not prepare for that since I was not sure if I would get it right the first time. The roof definitely lifts easier and does not crash down on you when let it down now. Looking forward to my redwoods trip in a couple weeks.

 

[Lighthawk]

Looks like a good father & son team. Great skills to teach the next gen.
I kind of like the way the side mount action seems more aligned with the lift.

 

[Overland Hadley]

Looks good!

 

[ski3pin]

Great photos of your project, thanks for posting. This mod is in the back of our minds. The side mount wouldn't work with our storm flaps.

 

[DonM]

Looks great, thanks for the great pix, I notice you did this on the rear of the camper, how does the front lift? I was wanting to do the same thing but had thought of putting the top mount in line with the board in the inside for lifting the front. After doing this what are your thoughts/suggestions?
ps I also looked on ebay, mind telling how much of a 'deal' you got?

 

[Barko1]

I'm in the process of installing a new rear door in my Grandby and in taking out the old door I had to disconnect my lifter thingies. A bit later I decided to lift the roof, forgetting my lifters were off. At first I thought there was something wrong and then it occurred to me I was back in manual mode. I have about 50# of solar up there and now can't imagine not having the thingies.

 

[dorocks]

Looks great, thanks for the great pix, I notice you did this on the rear of the camper, how does the front lift? I was wanting to do the same thing but had thought of putting the top mount in line with the board in the inside for lifting the front. After doing this what are your thoughts/suggestions?
ps I also looked on ebay, mind telling how much of a 'deal' you got?

Both the front and rear lift much easier and they both come down slowly and softly. I do have a the FWC larger solar panel on the front of my Hawk as well. To lift the back I sit on the couch and just push up. Used to have to put a shoulder under it and struggle. Hated putting it down. I laugh now. I do not know if putting the front strut closer to the lifting board would be better. I thought about it but stayed with putting them in the corner as I did.

The front lift is more of a push as well versus a shoulder struggle. I feel I will be more likely to put the top up at any ole time now. Before once a day was enough.

The Strut your Stuff guy lets you make an offer. I started at $31.00 for the pair to help offset shipping. He took $35. Paid $86.00 for the two pairs including shipping. $23.32 for the 8 brackets from Maxum Hardware including shipping.

 

[dorocks]

Great photos of your project, thanks for posting. This mod is in the back of our minds. The side mount wouldn't work with our storm flaps.

You are correct. The one fellow who had posted mentioned he did not consider the flaps when he side mounted. My newer model did not have anything in the way.

Also I never intend to have a awning. Never used the one I had on my previous RV.

Either way works and now that I have them, I believe they should be standard issue for FWCs.

Thanks to the folks who came up with the idea.

 

[ski3pin]

Thanks for your helpful comments!

 

[MarkBC]

Yes, thanks for a new thread on struts (and using the less-common-mounting, at that) -- gets me thinking about adding this trick to my Hawk.

Currently I carry nothing on the roof (and have no rack up there) so I don't need any help lifting. But I'm considering adding a second solar panel to my rig, and it would be mounted on the roof (current panel is free-standing, not mounted, to give me the flexibility to point it at the sun), and if/when I do this I'll want a lift-assist.

 

[esimmers]

I just installed top lifting struts on my '09 Hawk with the LED running lights. I bought the hardware on eBay from seller "strut-your-stuff-here". The struts are listed as "2ea Gas Spring Strut shock lift REP SUSPA C16-15952" (2 for $39.99) and the offset brackets are listed as "Gas Spring Strut Shock ball Mount OFF SET bracket 10MM" (2.99 each). With combined shipping, my total cost was about $120. I used #10 x 3/4 SS screws in drilled 1/8" holes in the places that I couldn't use an existing hole.

The rear center LED was centered over the offset door (see picture), so I had to move it so it is centered on the camper. That allowed me to put both lower rear brackets on the door frame.

The front center LED prevented me from centering the lower brackets, so I did the reverse compared to the rear and centered the upper brackets instead. That works fine, and since the struts are almost level, the lowered top doesn't try to pop up when you're trying to latch it.

 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

I just installed top lifting struts on my '09 Hawk with the LED running lights. I bought the hardware on eBay from seller "strut-your-stuff-here". The struts are listed as "2ea Gas Spring Strut shock lift REP SUSPA C16-15952" (2 for $39.99) and the offset brackets are listed as "Gas Spring Strut Shock ball Mount OFF SET bracket 10MM" (2.99 each). With combined shipping, my total cost was about $120. I used #10 x 3/4 SS screws in drilled 1/8" holes in the places that I couldn't use an existing hole.

The rear center LED was centered over the offset door (see picture), so I had to move it so it is centered on the camper. That allowed me to put both lower rear brackets on the door frame.

The front center LED prevented me from centering the lower brackets, so I did the reverse compared to the rear and centered the upper brackets instead. That works fine, and since the struts are almost level, the lowered top doesn't try to pop up when you're trying to latch it.









Looks great.You are going to love them.I think adding the lifters is one of the best options on my Bobcat.Saves the old back and keeps the top from crashing down .

Frank

 

[Gormley Green]

esimmers, looks great. One day I will get around to doing the same on my '10 Hawk. Could you elaborate a bit more on moving the rear LED lights. And when you pre-drilled holes for the #10's were you going into the camper frame?

Thanks for posting.

 

[esimmers]

esimmers, looks great. One day I will get around to doing the same on my '10 Hawk. Could you elaborate a bit more on moving the rear LED lights. And when you pre-drilled holes for the #10's were you going into the camper frame?

Thanks for posting.


The brackets fastened to the top went into the top aluminum frame. The lower rear brackets are in the sturdy door frame. I don't know about the lower front brackets because I've never seen a picture of the front framing. The metal didn't seem as thick as where i knew I was going into the top aluminum frame, but the screws seem to be holding well anyway.

I wanted to mount the rear lower brackets on the door frame because I wasn't sure there was another sturdy location to mount them. I had to move the rear center LED to mount the lower brackets because the LED would interfere with the strut if I didn't. Take off the two screws holding the LED and it will be pretty obvious what you need to do to move the light a couple of inches.

 

[Gormley Green]

The brackets fastened to the top went into the top aluminum frame. The lower rear brackets are in the sturdy door frame. I don't know about the lower front brackets because I've never seen a picture of the front framing. The metal didn't seem as thick as where i knew I was going into the top aluminum frame, but the screws seem to be holding well anyway.

I wanted to mount the rear lower brackets on the door frame because I wasn't sure there was another sturdy location to mount them. I had to move the rear center LED to mount the lower brackets because the LED would interfere with the strut if I didn't. Take off the two screws holding the LED and it will be pretty obvious what you need to do to move the light a couple of inches.


Right on, thanks. It's on "the list", one day...

 

[stoef]

To anyone here who has done the lift assist mod:
What size struts are you using?

 

[Alley-Kat]

Mine were from the Suspa company, 36" long and 40 lbs of force.

 

[stoef]

Mine were from the Suspa company, 36" long and 40 lbs of force.

Thanks a bunch, did you use the off set brackets as well?
Time to order!

 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

Thanks a bunch, did you use the off set brackets as well?
Time to order!


STOEF, I have a ATC Bobcat that I carry a canoe similar to yours. I also used the "suspa #40" struts with straight brackets. I have no problem lifting the roof or lowering. Sure makes a difference when the canoe is on. I was able to install them myself. It's pretty easy and straight forward. Check out the thread "roof lifter thingies" there are a lot of posts there with info.
Frank