New to me Alaskan camper question.

[Anewway]

Hi all new guy here, I just picked up my first Alaskan camper and am excited to go exploring and wander the west.
I'm sure I'll have a bunch of questions but first on the list is wondering what the switch by the thermostat does? This is a 1996 cabover camper with a furnace. I'll post pictures as soon as I figure out how.

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

Howdy and welcome to the group! That sounds like a nice camper!

This might help with the pictures... http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/13441-uploading-photos-to-comments-and-gallery/

 

[Rusty]

Welcome Anewway....

huddle in real close and you'll probably get your answer...I'd be happy to but..I don't have a heater, let alone a switch

here's a pdf of operating instructions

http://www.fourwheelcampers.com/atwoodfurnaceinstructions.pdf

since the pdf comes from FWC...I'd search the FWC board for a link to their heaters or pose the question to that board as well

after looking at the circuit diagram...the switch appears to be a power switch to the circuit breaker...which would shut off the 12v power to the unit (isolates the thermostat when not in use)......from the diagram you should be able to check the power supply with an amp-meter (and a well charged battery).

again...Welcome

 

[Anewway]

Thanks for the warm welcomes and for the pdf electrical diagram. I'll investigate further.
Here's a pic of the camper freshly loaded on the truck. It needs tlc having sat for nearly a decade without use but is in solid condition.

 

[Rusty]

always a first...every day a new something.....

4x4's bolted to reico brackets for lifting...I'm assuming?...Maybe for clearance on a 1 ton dually
the storage loops are even there for storing the reico jacks while underway...did the jacks come with the purchase?

make sure you're well covered or sealed...the interiors on those were mdf or flakeboard with vinyl "woodgrain" coating...things happen real fast when they get "moist". pay special attention to the roof penetrations of the boat rack...those mid body holes especially....

if you're not going to carry a boat..lose the rack and caulk the holes before you put the cylinder bracket bolts back in. That rack extends the height and offers catching low hanging branches or low roofs/garage doors etc...could ruin your day in a heartbeat...something to consider

right rig for it...4x4, 3/4 ton diesel with floating rear axles....air-bag the suspension and your ride will improve substantially...it loses the sway on turns

really good start!!

 

[Anewway]

The 4x4s were installed to clear a double axle trailer and yes the reico jacks came with the camper
I just lowered the top for the first time in 8 years, it came down with a bit of coaxing, this was very cool.
The rack will probably come off and yes the vents have lost their seal and the ceiling flakkeboard has some water damage.

Thanks for the pointers Rusty!

 

[huskyrunnr]

Do the jacks bolt somewhere to the 4x4s? I couldn't see bolt holes. Those box extensions are way too expensive.

 

[Anewway]

Yes the jacks were bolted to the 4x4s. I removed the 4x4s and attached the jacks to their brackets.

 

[Anewway]

I've been slowly plugging away at the camper. I pulled of the monster rack off and spent the morning removing silicone, lots of it..
The camper is a little beat up but adds character

 

[Rusty]

If I'm not mistaken...the rear rack bolts are for the hydraulic cylinder brackets inside.....don't try to raise the top without replacing them....you'll end up with new ventilation holes in the roof

scratches just make it much easier to drive into the back woods without worrying about the finish

 

[Anewway]

The cylinder brackets are right next to the overhead rack mounts on this camper so no worries.
I'm wondering what the best way to fasten the camper to the truck is? I'm thinking of bolting it to the bed so it flexes with the bed as a unit.

 

[Ripperj]

On an older camper I would not bolt through the floor. The camper is likely to end up on the road with the floor still securely bolted to the truck. People and Alaskan I belive have mounted them this way, but the floor to wall joint gets weak over the years. Some have been so bad the floor has fallen down when the camper was jacked up, but this was an extreme case.

 

[Anewway]

Thanks for the pointer ripper. I'm hesitant to get the torklift simple because of the high expense. Happijac doesn't make a tie down for my truck. So I'm left with a home built system. Thinking of a hybrid bolt down and bumper mount system.

 

[Rusty]

Don't give up on Happijack....the system can be easily adjusted to fit any truck....

and you can find them just hanging around sometimes

Torqlift is way too much pressure for a plywood and pine frame

happijack tiedowns fit nicely into the reico brackets too...add derringer quick releases and it simplifies things

 

[Anewway]

Great insight Rusty! I'll keep my eyes out for a happijac system.

 

[Rusty]

be quick on the trigger....there are alot of folks looking for them........ ........

 

[Anewway]

I need 2 new 14" roof vents. One has a fan the other doesn't. Any recommendations? I see prices all over the place.

 

[Ripperj]

Can't go wrong with Fantastic fan. The cheaper ones don't have all the sensors, but you don't need them. For about $6 shipped you can get a amde in China speed control that allows you to slow the fan down to a whisper and uses much less amps.
I would go with at least a 1250 model, the 1200 doesn't have reverse

 

[Anewway]

Perfect thanks!

 

[PackRat]

In any installation, you don't want the camper moving around. It will damage/destroy the points on the camper before the truck body gives way (plywood vs. steel). Once things get LOOSE, they can gain MOMENTUM which brings to bear greater FORCE on the tie-down points no matter what kind you have.

Why not start a new thread in the AK section titled "Securing an Alaskan in a Dodge" and see if you can get some owners of that model truck with a 10' AK to share their secrets on what fits and what works?