Yup, I lucked out. I bought a slightly used 2015 Hawk to put in my 2007 Chev 2500 with a 6’7” bed. The previous owner had it in a Tundra sitting on a piece of foam insulation as his sidewalls were too short. I learned about the Chevy “cut out” when I calledFWC to install my mounting bolts. I gave them the serial number and they told me I was lucky. It had been originally built for a Chev. Hopefully you van get yours modified.
New truck - rounded tailgate and camper won't fit
- Thread starter Karlton
- Start date
Stan@FourWheel
Senior Member
Thanks Karl
Easy fix for most people.
If you have a "Tractor Supply" or a Feed & Tack store in your area, just buy a 4' x 6' piece of the rubber horse stall mat.
It is thick, dense, and waterproof. They are usually $35-$40 and approx. 3/4" thick.
Looks like their might be a location 1/2 hour away ?
Tractor Supply, 1019 S Washington Ave, Emmett, ID 83617
If memory serves me right, the FWC service department was telling people they needed approx. 5/8" platform for the camper to clear the "chevy tailgate notch". But if your new truck has the spray on bed liner, and you add the 3/4" horse stall mat, it should give you really close to the desired height.
And then buy 4 of the quick links from Home Depot, or Tractor Supply.
Something like this . . .
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-8-in-Stainless-Steel-Quick-Link-42794/205883033
The quick links will give you the extra length needed if your turn buckles don't react the eye bolts in the truck bed any longer.
Hope this helps !
Stan
Easy fix for most people.
If you have a "Tractor Supply" or a Feed & Tack store in your area, just buy a 4' x 6' piece of the rubber horse stall mat.
It is thick, dense, and waterproof. They are usually $35-$40 and approx. 3/4" thick.
Looks like their might be a location 1/2 hour away ?
Tractor Supply, 1019 S Washington Ave, Emmett, ID 83617
If memory serves me right, the FWC service department was telling people they needed approx. 5/8" platform for the camper to clear the "chevy tailgate notch". But if your new truck has the spray on bed liner, and you add the 3/4" horse stall mat, it should give you really close to the desired height.
And then buy 4 of the quick links from Home Depot, or Tractor Supply.
Something like this . . .
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-8-in-Stainless-Steel-Quick-Link-42794/205883033
The quick links will give you the extra length needed if your turn buckles don't react the eye bolts in the truck bed any longer.
Hope this helps !
Stan
1980Keystone
Member
Karlton,
I'm not sure how new your Hawk is, but my thinking is that there are actually two issues at stake here: 1)proper fitment and 2) water evacuation under the camper bed to prevent rot.
If you have a newer Hawk, #2 is a moot point because, it appears to me, that FWC engineers have decided to run uniformly spaced planks across the camper belly in recent models. I haven't seen one of these in person so I don't know what the depth of these planks are (maybe 1/2-5/8"?) but this change in models must be to create space to allow for water evaporation under the belly. Moisture pools in the open spaces under the wood and then it evaporates, something it can't do if it is trapped under the wood. If you already have one of these models, then I don't have much to offer except to repeat the advice of others using a platform.
If, however, you have an older model, I would go find one of the new models and find out the exact measurements of these slats and mimic the depth and spacing as close as possible with your camper, but enough so that it gives you the bare minimum of elevation to clear the rounded tailgate opening. Maybe give yourself an extra 1/4" to allow for wood shrinkage or compression over time. Maybe some of the synthetic decking material would be better even. But this method would not only fix your problem but also add an innovative feature that FWC has decided (I'm sure with good reason) to include on all new models.
This is something I hope to eventually do on my own renovated Keystone some day. I've with mechanical engineers my entire career, and one thing I've learned is to respect the engineering that goes into a well-proven manufactured structure. So I try to stay as close to it as possible, when possible.
I'm not sure how new your Hawk is, but my thinking is that there are actually two issues at stake here: 1)proper fitment and 2) water evacuation under the camper bed to prevent rot.
If you have a newer Hawk, #2 is a moot point because, it appears to me, that FWC engineers have decided to run uniformly spaced planks across the camper belly in recent models. I haven't seen one of these in person so I don't know what the depth of these planks are (maybe 1/2-5/8"?) but this change in models must be to create space to allow for water evaporation under the belly. Moisture pools in the open spaces under the wood and then it evaporates, something it can't do if it is trapped under the wood. If you already have one of these models, then I don't have much to offer except to repeat the advice of others using a platform.
If, however, you have an older model, I would go find one of the new models and find out the exact measurements of these slats and mimic the depth and spacing as close as possible with your camper, but enough so that it gives you the bare minimum of elevation to clear the rounded tailgate opening. Maybe give yourself an extra 1/4" to allow for wood shrinkage or compression over time. Maybe some of the synthetic decking material would be better even. But this method would not only fix your problem but also add an innovative feature that FWC has decided (I'm sure with good reason) to include on all new models.
This is something I hope to eventually do on my own renovated Keystone some day. I've with mechanical engineers my entire career, and one thing I've learned is to respect the engineering that goes into a well-proven manufactured structure. So I try to stay as close to it as possible, when possible.
One nice thing about using rubber horse mats is that the camper doesn't move at all and is padded, Live in east Idaho and have had it on the Ocelot on for seven years, stored outside and just repainted the bottom this summer. No rot issues or hardly any cracks in the plywood.
Karlton
Senior Member
Thanks for the suggestions. I went with a horse stall mat and added some wood to the bottom of the camper along the rails. I was able to get it loaded with no issue.
Good news! I’m glad it worked out for you!Karlton said:
Yes!Wandering Sagebrush said:
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