Newbie With Tire Question

[bj40]

This is my first post and I want to begin by saying that I have been very impressed by the friendly and helpful nature of the members of this forum.
I began "wandering the west" as an Outward Bound instructor back in the late sixties when I turned twenty. Back then it was backpacking in the mountains of Cali, Oregon and WA. Later in my thirties and forties it was river expeditions in the canyons of Utah. I always had to pinch myself to think I was getting paid to do such work. And along the way I was carpentering houses in Wyoming and Alaska and even New Zealand and teaching middle school. Been lurking here for the past year.

Now I am an outdoor painter, oil on canvass and my expedition vehicle has been a 94 Toyota single cab, 2 wheel drive with a cap and a couple of rocket boxes and a foam pad; ac is attained by rolling down the window. Great MPG. BUT, I am turning 70 in July and feel I'm ready for an upgrade.

I have a Bobcat shell on the build schedule at ATC and a 2014 Tacoma 4x4 DCLB(new to me) In the driveway. Yes, I have read about the problems of the Toyota and overweight issues. I plan to do the buildout myself trying to think like a thru hiker on the PCT. Yes, I definiitely want to get off the beaten path but have little to zero experience with 4X4. I imagine that the majority of my driving will be on the highway, then forest service/BLM, to roads that say "4 wheel only". Will be looking for "dispersed camping" as I have used regular campgrounds less times than fingers on one hand in this whole life.

Any mods to the truck will only come as the need arises. From my reading here, I'll probably go with airbags to start. But even before that I need tires as the ones on the truck are very near the end of their useful life. Currently using 265/70/16. Been tire shopping but am getting lots of different answers. Not interested changing the rims unless it makes good sense. One tire salesman asked me how I wanted the tires to look on the truck, and yea I know that tires and rims can be pretty cool looking but...........

If you understand my quandry about this tire purchase and have an experience or reccomendation I would sure be happy to have you share it with me.

BTW,
I do own a 1980 Landcruiser BJ40. Hence my handle. It gets shifted into four wheel once per month unless I am pulling a trailer with block or sand or rock up a steep hill. It has been my construction vehicle for the past twelve years. I suppose that if a person can have love for a truck, then I'm guilty with this one. Runs like fine watch with only 150,000 kilometers. "Un regalo en mi vida."

Thanks

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

Hi BJ40, welcome to WTW!!!

I have a Bobcat on a Ford Ranger. I’m guessing I am around 1200 pounds of camper. My tires are Toyo Open Country AT.
LT 245/75 R 16. They’re 10 ply and in my opinion overkill. A bit rough riding. I’m thinking of going to a 6 ply Cooper AT that are the same size the truck had originally. Yes on airbags.

 

[BillTheHiker]

Strongly recommend load range E tires, not only to handle the added weight of the camper but for additional plies both tread and sidewall to protect against sharp rocks. I put Cooper AT3 E range on mine. I have 10K miles on them and drove some of the worst roads in Death Valley with no problems. I have the FWC fleet shell without any appliances so lighter than most. I went with upgraded spring kit so now have 5 leafs and very happy with that. I did not like what I read about air bags alone. I recently got the rig weighed and numbers are below.

2016 Fleet shell on 2008 Tacoma V6, Access cab, 4x4 TRD off road with two extra progressive leaf springs and E rated tires. Weight includes myself.

Front axle: 2360 lbs
Rear axle: 2760 lbs
Total: 5120 lbs

GVWR on door sticker: 5350

5350 - 5120 = 230 lbs for all gear, food, water. So I figure I will usually be at or maybe a bit below GVWR for most trips.
However, using GAWR gross axle weight rating I will be well under the maximum.
front: 2755 lbs
rear: 3110 lbs
total = 5865

I previously weighed just the Tacoma at 4330 lbs (including myself), so the camper is 790. I added a counter, sink and two built-in cabinets adding about 30 lbs so subtracting that gives 760 which is very close to the 766 on the manufacturers statement of origin.

 

[klahanie]

Welcome bj40 !

Enjoyed your intro. Sounds like you will already have quite a bit of experience driving or being driven off highway. Getting to a trail head in an old Beatle or Nova counts the same as in a Jeep . The 4x4 tire part is not much different but the further "in" you go, the more important reliability and traction become - while you are there. Of course those are only two attributes that tires might have.

Lots of different tire models will be suitable for "the majority of my driving will be on the highway, then forest service/BLM, to roads that say "4 wheel only"." so my suggestion is that you make a short list prioritizing what is important to you. Cost, longevity, noise, wet handling, off road traction, availability, warranty etc. That will make selection a lot easier, imo.

I think sticking with original size and rim is prob a good idea. An all terrain tread, maybe a little on the aggressive pattern side, would be a good, general compromise choice.

I'll let the Toyota folks recommend some brands ...

ON EDIT: I'll add the consideration of travelling solo, remote and without much recovery gear. If applicable that might tip the selection to a more aggressive M/T type pattern - at least in the PNW. Wouldn't add anything to driving on pavement though, unless you like "hummmm".

 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

Welcome to the WTW group and the ATC Bobcat family.
I have a 2009 Bobcat originally made for the 2006 Ranger I had
but after 2 years I went to a 2002 Tundra mainly for more power as
the Ranger had the small V6 and was under powered.
The camper did great on that truck until there was some hills or strong head winds.
Now the Bobcat sits on the Tundra and no power problems.
The only mods to the suspension were supersprings on the Ranger and air bags on the Tundra.
I really like the air bags over the supersprings. Air bags give you more options.
Have fun with your rig.
Frank

 

[bj40]

Thanks for your replys.

Yes, been down a few rough roads in a "bug"; fond memories those are. Liked the VW van as well, but gave up on the slow speeds and a burned valve or two, moved onto a Ford Club wagon, straight 6 manual, for expeditions with the kids. That was another one to love. Then I turned a Ford long body tradesman into a camper for Mexico and Central America. Another great one that ended up as a fried fish business on the beach in Costa Rica. It deserved way better.

I think I already get it. Put a camper on a Tacoma and you best go with e rated and accept the highway "hum". Especially, if you want to go to the "back of beyond" solo. Anyone know of a low decible "e" tire for the highway to get you to the place where you need the All Terrain. Could be I'll need two sets, with the camper and without.

Bill, Thanks for shareing your weights. I'll do a little more figuring in that regard. With those leaf springs you have added, how is the ride if the camper is not on? Some say that can be a bit bouncy uness you keep a few hundred-weight of bagged sand in the back. Thoughts on that?
Klahanie, off road traction, don't always need it, until you do. Thanks for your thoughts.
WSage, read many posts from you and I definitly pay attention

 

[rando]

I have used 235/85 R16 load range 'E' BFG All Terrains on my current Tacoma w/ FWC Fleet and my prior Tacoma. They have worked for me and seem to be a good compromise of on road manners and off road performance, and I have NEVER had a flat. These particular tires have the 'Mountain Snowflake' symbol which means they are rated as a snow tire as well - which is useful in states with traction laws, but they are not nearly as good as true snow tire. The skinniness of the 85% profile tires helps offset some of the fuel economy loss from heavier tires.

I am sure others will chime in with what has worked for them.

 

[BillTheHiker]

Bill, Thanks for shareing your weights. I'll do a little more figuring in that regard. With those leaf springs you have added, how is the ride if the camper is not on? Some say that can be a bit bouncy uness you keep a few hundred-weight of bagged sand in the back. Thoughts on that?

Camper is on full time and springs were added during the camper install so I cannot say. But I have read in this forum reports that the springs cause the Tacoma to ride rather stiff without the camper. Some added air bags for that purpose. I have also experienced "porpoising" on a few occasions while driving on concrete interstates but think that is mainly the short wheelbase. There is a thread on this -search for porpoising.

 

[Taku]

Welcome. I have an 05 Tundra with Ocelot - that I built out with cabinets, furnace and such. I ran Michelin AT's with no problem for 60K miles on highway, 2WD and 4WD roads throughout the west. Just switched to BFG KO2's for better sidewall protection in mind. A bit noisier (but not objectionable) and maybe a bit less traction on ice ( I drive over Teton Pass in Wyoming on a regular basis). Both sets I would buy again - depends on how rough a road you really plan on traveling. If more on the highway, Michelin's would work fine. Good luck.

 

[ntsqd]

Beware of "sidewall plies rating" vs. actual sidewall plies. A rating is worthless against punctures, you need the actual plies. 3 at minimum.

 

[moveinon]

Generally I think that springs or springs with air bags work well for those who leave their camper on all of the time because they can be tuned with shocks for the specific weight carried. When I did that on a previous truck it worked great under load, but rode awful when empty. I now run with airbags and upgraded shocks only because I take the camper off for the winter and like the ability to fully adjust the Tacoma when I do that. Going to E rated tires with good sidewall protection just makes sense to deal with the weight and rocks and airing up and down on a lot of logging and BLM roads here in Oregon and other places. It will negatively affect your MPG a little and give you a slightly rougher ride than the thinner stock tires- you can adjust for that a little by going from a 265/70/16 to a 265/75/16. This will make your speed off by 2 or 3 MPH so not much change. And as Rando said it may make sense to go even taller and narrower which I did on my VW Syncro but have not on the Tacoma. I have a lot of miles on BFG E rated KO2 tires and have been satisfied with the traction, sidewall protection, and low road noise. I ski so hit the road to Hood regularly -As said earlier they are snow flake tires and do OK in the snow, but not like real snow tires.

 

[bj40]

Thanks all for your replies. I think e rated, probably the KO 2s, air bags and upgraded shocks. Any recs on the shocks? Maybe Bilsteins, not sure on the model.

Taku, I have been over Teton pass about four times, always mid-winter, freezing cold, need to be paying close attention to the road, did I say freezing cold? I was there doing exterior siding and trim. I'd like to get back over there soon to the Idaho side to do some painting. Very beautiful country.

 

[BillM]

I love the yokohama geolander A/T's on my Nissan Frontier with an Eagle shell. I've had a couple sets and gotten good service from them. Definitely go with the LT rated tires for durability. We do alot of mountain and desert backcountry roads and have never flatted. If they don't make the exact size you have now look at different widths and aspect ratios. Here's a good comparison calculator:

https://tiresize.com/comparison/

I went narrower with a higher aspect ratio than stock so my tires are a little taller. Have fun.

 

[PackRat]

I think it would be advantageous for all who are worried about overloading their trucks....and that probably means any 1/2 ton and possibly a 3/4 ton...

To FORGET the GVWR....for a moment

Weigh your truck when you are headed for the hills and compare the FRONT axle to the FRONT VIN rating and the same for the rear axle, compare what you get at the scales with the VIN REAR rating.

The point is to not overload either axle...if you do you are not within spec and should be aware of that. Once you understand that you will understand why guys add springs, bags, whatever to help raise the rear end of the truck, but the truck is still overloaded....all you have done is lifted the bed/camper to a level appearance.

If you were 1200 lbs under the front axle maximum, and 1200 over the rear axle maximum you might still be under the GVWR but you are no longer within spec....and I say "within spec" in lieu of just saying NOT SAFELY LOADED.

Hey, it's your rig and your life out there if for some reason something happens and you blow a rear tire or some semi coming the other way has enough headwind or tailwind to cause you to swerve....not a pretty picture!

 

[PackRat]

Oh yeah....to answer the OP....just look at the VIN tag to find out what tire the mfger recommends when you are SAFELY loaded. That is a minimum also....load range E tires for 3/4 ton trucks rather than the "P" range passenger tires should be considered with a loaded rig.