No water pressure

[travelingdan]

Hello all:

I have a 2005 Grandby.

I'm getting no water pressure either inside at the sink or at the outside shower. Just a little dribble in both places.

Before I left on my current trip, I drained the tank and refilled it. I did find out that I drove a ways with my outside water intake door open. Don't know what that could of done.

Anyone have any suggestions on a fix?

Dan

 

[Stan@FourWheel]

It sounds like you need to flush out your hot water heater, change the anode rod,, take the tip of the sink faucet & the head of the shower wand off, fill & flush all of the water lines by using the water pump, clean out the small screens on the tip of the sink faucet, clean the small pin holes on the inside of the outside shower wand, put everything back together.

MAKE SURE TO LET THE HOT WATER TANK COOL DOWN AND RELEASE ALL OF THE WATER PRESSURE BEFORE REMOVING THE ANODE ROD) ... turn electric water pump off, open both hot and cold water lines to release water pressure, release the pressure valve on the outside of the hot water heater if you want.

Most FWC customers don't know the basics of RV maintanance (I know I didn't) and forget the stuff that needs to be checked, cleaned, and adjusted each year.

TRY THIS TO SEE IF THE ABOVE IS THE PROBLEM ...

take the head off the outside shower wand ... turn on the electric water pump ... turn on your outside shower ... DOES THE WATER FLOW NORMALLY ??

take the small tip off the sink faucet inside the camper ... turn on the sink faucet ... DOES THE WATER FLOW NORMALLY ??

If so, the anode rod in the hot water tank has clogged up your water system.

Just follow the above instruction and you should be able to get back on the road again.

The anode rods are available at any RV store or I think even places like Wal-Mart have them in the RV section.


Hope this helps.


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[travelingdan]

Stan:

Thanks for the info. Even with the caps off the sink faucet and the head off of the shower, there's still very little water flow. More water flow out of the shower than the sink.

Dan

 

[travelingdan]

Is there a technique in getting the rod out? I've got the cap off (with a bit of effort), but I can't figure out how to extract the rod.

 

[Stan@FourWheel]

The hot water tank drain plug is part of & attached to the anode rod ??

If you get the hot water heater drain plug out, the anode rod will be attched to it (unless it corroded off all the way ???) - unlikely though.

see link & picture here of what a new anode rod looks like ...


http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/product/replaceable-anode-rods-for-atwood-and-suburban-water-heaters/2470


flush tool ...


http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/water-heater-tank-rinser/49070


The check valve in your cabinets might also be plugged up with gunk from the anode rod ?

You might be able to clean it out yourself, but it will be some work.

You might want to call our service shop for more advice if that is the case ?

FWC SERVICE

800-242-1442


You migfht also have a bad water pump ??

Hard to know without having the camper here.






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[Barko1]

Dang, that's a thorough response! way to go Stan. I have some maintenance in progress if you want to come visit

 

[leadsled9]

Stan,

You are the MAN. What a great response.

I change out my water monthly.....and even then had problems with the anode rod residue. I recommend that you also use the hot water tank bypass valve and completely bypass the hot water tank until you take a trip that requires you to use the hot water. Things stay a lot cleaner that way. I bypass the hot water and remove the plug/annode rod until needed.

 

[HERR42]

there is a combo drain/anode rod replacement that i used.

you can hook water to city feed and then open the anode/drain and watch the stuff blow out.
then leave the tank drained when not using it.

 

[travelingdan]

Hey everyone (especially Stan):

Thanks for all the info. I guess I should have been doing regular maintenance instead of installing luxury items like a stereo, boot rack and shelving.

I'm at Mono Lake now three days into a month-long trip. I guess I'll have to figure out how to do the maintenance out in the wild.

Dan

 

[travelingdan]

I never use the hot water. Where is the hot water tank bypass valve?

Stan,

You are the MAN. What a great response.

I change out my water monthly.....and even then had problems with the anode rod residue. I recommend that you also use the hot water tank bypass valve and completely bypass the hot water tank until you take a trip that requires you to use the hot water. Things stay a lot cleaner that way. I bypass the hot water and remove the plug/annode rod until needed.

 

[BSS]

Travelingdan; will you be traveling north? I'm about 90 minutes up 395 from Mono Lake. If you need tools or whatever, you're welcome to stop by tomorrow. I'm sure we can get your water situation figured out.

 

[travelingdan]

Thanks so much for the offer. Unfortunately, I'm back in San Diego. I'll be heading to Colorado next week.

Travelingdan; will you be traveling north? I'm about 90 minutes up 395 from Mono Lake. If you need tools or whatever, you're welcome to stop by tomorrow. I'm sure we can get your water situation figured out.

 

[Stan@FourWheel]

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Unfortunately the 2005 FWC models do not have the hot water tank bypass valve.

We didn't start installing that until maybe 2008 or 2009.

The original FWC's with the hot water heater had the front panel of kitchen cabinets "flush", meaning no door cut out for access to the hot water heater.

Then over time we starting installing the access door to get in to the hot water heater area (on the front of the kitchen cabinets).

Then we starting installing the hot water heater bypass valves and low point water drain hose to help the customers drain more water out of the lines (for winterizing purposes).

Now we are using a 6 gallon aluminum hot water heater that does not need the anode rod. So the new FWC's will be much less likely to have the water lines clogged up from the anode rod debris.
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I never use the hot water. Where is the hot water tank bypass valve?




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[travelingdan]

Stan:

Is there some way of bypassing the hot water heater in my camper?

Dan



.
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Unfortunately the 2005 FWC models do not have the hot water tank bypass valve.

We didn't start installing that until maybe 2008 or 2009.

The original FWC's with the hot water heater had the front panel of kitchen cabinets "flush", meaning no door cut out for access to the hot water heater.

Then over time we starting installing the access door to get in to the hot water heater area (on the front of the kitchen cabinets).

Then we starting installing the hot water heater bypass valves and low point water drain hose to help the customers drain more water out of the lines (for winterizing purposes).

Now we are using a 6 gallon aluminum hot water heater that does not need the anode rod. So the new FWC's will be much less likely to have the water lines clogged up from the anode rod debris.
.
.

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[Phil]

I live just north of San Diego if you want to stop by and I can give you a hand.

Phil

 

[Stan@FourWheel]

It might be possible to add a hot water shut off valve on your own, but you will need to be pretty handy and have some tools.

You will have to remove the cab front (front of the kitchen cabinets).

Cut or route out a hole for the access door for the front of the cabinets.

Make the access door.

Cut into the water line before it enters the hot water heater and install a shut off valve.

You will need the shut off valve, the ring clamps, a special crimping tool for the ring clamps, and maybe more stuff depending on what you run in to.

If you need those parts, plase call our service dept and they can try and get you to the next step.

This is about as far as I can get you, I think ?

The easier way might be to buy a new anode rod from CampingWorld that has the pet cock drain valve in it so you can easily drain the hot water heater most anytime you want or need to when you are not using it.

Just a thought.

See link here for the part ...

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/anode-rod-with-drain-for-atwood-water-heaters-4-12/37395


Happy Camping !


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[travelingdan]

Phil:

That would be great.! Here's my email: dannyg@znet.com and phone number: 858-279-5279.

Dan


I live just north of San Diego if you want to stop by and I can give you a hand.

Phil

 

[travelingdan]

Thanks, Stan.

I have lots of tools and some know-how.

Maybe I'll try the anode rod with drain first and see how that works.

Do you know if the Atwood rod from Camping World fit a Suburban heater?

Dan


It might be possible to add a hot water shut off valve on your own, but you will need to be pretty handy and have some tools.

You will have to remove the cab front (front of the kitchen cabinets).

Cut or route out a hole for the access door for the front of the cabinets.

Make the access door.

Cut into the water line before it enters the hot water heater and install a shut off valve.

You will need the shut off valve, the ring clamps, a special crimping tool for the ring clamps, and maybe more stuff depending on what you run in to.

If you need those parts, plase call our service dept and they can try and get you to the next step.

This is about as far as I can get you, I think ?

The easier way might be to buy a new anode rod from CampingWorld that has the pet cock drain valve in it so you can easily drain the hot water heater most anytime you want or need to when you are not using it.

Just a thought.

See link here for the part ...

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/anode-rod-with-drain-for-atwood-water-heaters-4-12/37395


Happy Camping !


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[travelingdan]

Update:

Well, I drained the water tank, took out the anode rod and drained the water from the hot water heater. I cleaned out the hot water heater, bought a new anode rod, installed it, filled up the tank and everything works fine now.

After each trip, I will now drain the water tank and the hot water heater and only fill the tank when I'm ready to leave.

Thanks to all for your advice.

Dan