Noobie Roof Leak Repair

[super doody]

What I thought was a leak from the windows and roof latched not attached properly was actually a leak. See previous post here: http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/index.php?/topic/6999/


After touching all the possible areas to feel for water, I felt water in headliner right around this wood trim on the rear passenger corner. Because the area behind the lift panel was wet in the same area, it made sense water was coming from here since the top was collapsed. This rear corner was the lowest point due to the slope in the driveway so all surface water runoff came rushing to this corner:

My attention immediately turned to the roof screws right above this area. I noticed the sealant on the last roof screw on the passenger side was not adequate. I scrapped off the old sealant and unscrewed the hex roof bolt. The bolt came really easy like it was already stripped. As I pulled out the screw, a ~3 inch finish nail also came out. Does anyone know what the finish nail was used for? Also is there a piece of wood behind headliner which is what the interior wood trim is stapled to?

Anyways, I continued with the repair.

As you can see this photo, the hole was extremely rough with all sorts jagged metal.

I prep the hole as much as possible with metal shears and a hammer. Surface was also cleaned with alcohol.

New screw, old screw and 3M sealant

Hardware used. I used #10 3/4 SS self tapping hexbolt which were wider but had the same length as the original screw since the original hole was stripped. The self tapping was probably not needed. I was surprised to see my Lowes had neoprene washers.

Finished

Thoughts:

I was surprised just how little bite there is on these roof screws and how thin the aluminum stringers are since there are a number of folks using home made roof racks with only a couple of attachment points per "foot" but have held up to real world abuse.


Another leak prevention was done by Marty when i was at ATC to pickup my corner jacks this pass weekend. Marty told me that condensation builds up in the perimeter tubes on roof and because the corners are cut for the bend, sometimes condensation will leak into the camper from the corners. Prevent this, Marty removed every other bolt on the corner on the outside and sprayed expanding foam into the tube. He mentioned that they do that on every corner of every camper they build.

 

[tnscoots]

Hey S. D. -- It looks like you did a good job on the repair. I ended up replacing all the roof screws with larger diameter new ones from Lowes that came with the washers in place. They really hold tight and there was no need to add sealant. Thanks for mentioning what the ATC folks do with squirting foam in the corners. I'm going to do that too as I just rebuild my rear lift panel as the same condensation must have rotted the original, and I can feel wetness up there at times. Bet it solves the problem.
Cheers,
tom

 

[dsrtrat]

The headliner battens are stapled directly to the frame members.

Looks like you found the problem with the screw. No Idea what the nail was doing in there. Maybe someone used the nail as a shim to try and fix a stripped hole?
You might want to look into using 3M 4200 sealant if you do additional screw repairs. The 3M 5200 is great until you need to remove the screw at a later time, then it is just about impossible to break the bond. Most likely not an issue for this type of repair.

Dsrtrat


What I thought was a leak from the windows and roof latched not attached properly was actually a leak. See previous post here: http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/index.php?/topic/6999/


After touching all the possible areas to feel for water, I felt water in headliner right around this wood trim on the rear passenger corner. Because the area behind the lift panel was wet in the same area, it made sense water was coming from here since the top was collapsed. This rear corner was the lowest point due to the slope in the driveway so all surface water runoff came rushing to this corner:

My attention immediately turned to the roof screws right above this area. I noticed the sealant on the last roof screw on the passenger side was not adequate. I scrapped off the old sealant and unscrewed the hex roof bolt. The bolt came really easy like it was already stripped. As I pulled out the screw, a ~3 inch finish nail also came out. Does anyone know what the finish nail was used for? Also is there a piece of wood behind headliner which is what the interior wood trim is stapled to?

Anyways, I continued with the repair.

As you can see this photo, the hole was extremely rough with all sorts jagged metal.

I prep the hole as much as possible with metal shears and a hammer. Surface was also cleaned with alcohol.

New screw, old screw and 3M sealant

Hardware used. I used #10 3/4 SS self tapping hexbolt which were wider but had the same length as the original screw since the original hole was stripped. The self tapping was probably not needed. I was surprised to see my Lowes had neoprene washers.

Finished

Thoughts:

I was surprised just how little bite there is on these roof screws and how thin the aluminum stringers are since there are a number of folks using home made roof racks with only a couple of attachment points per "foot" but have held up to real world abuse.


Another leak prevention was done by Marty when i was at ATC to pickup my corner jacks this pass weekend. Marty told me that condensation builds up in the perimeter tubes on roof and because the corners are cut for the bend, sometimes condensation will leak into the camper from the corners. Prevent this, Marty removed every other bolt on the corner on the outside and sprayed expanding foam into the tube. He mentioned that they do that on every corner of every camper they build.

 

[super doody]

The headliner battens are stapled directly to the frame members.

Looks like you found the problem with the screw. No Idea what the nail was doing in there. Maybe someone used the nail as a shim to try and fix a stripped hole?
You might want to look into using 3M 4200 sealant if you do additional screw repairs. The 3M 5200 is great until you need to remove the screw at a later time, then it is just about impossible to break the bond. Most likely not an issue for this type of repair.

Dsrtrat


Thanks Dsrtrat. So the staples go directly into the aluminum frame member?

In regards the 5200 as a permanent sealant - I was iffy about using it as well since I have plans on installing a roof rack to hold surfboards but my local ace just didn't have any better. It was also Xmas eve so I was low on time and there was another storm coming.

 

[craig333]

Yes, the staples go directly into the frame. I've replaced a number of mine with screws. Did you get sealant down into the hole? Most of us go in under and around. Necessary? Maybe not but I want to be as sure I possibly can be that its sealed.

 

[SLO_F-250]

Grest writeup, thanks for posting. I too plan on doing roof maintenance soon. Interesting to hear what those Guys at ATC do. Great guys over there, I'm going to try that foam idea.

 

[super doody]

Grest writeup, thanks for posting. I too plan on doing roof maintenance soon. Interesting to hear what those Guys at ATC do. Great guys over there, I'm going to try that foam idea.


Yes, Marty was super nice to meet us at the shop on Sunday afternoon. He took time with me go to over my camper and showed me around the shop and even allow our dogs to run around . I also got a set of corner jacks for about $100 less than anyone and he threw in some drill adapter with new grade 8 hardware!!

Also, regarding 3M 5200 sealant removal. This stuff is advertised to remove 3M 5200. http://www.debondcorp.com/pr03-07-07.htm

I had to use this 3M 5200 since there was another storm coming and this all they had at ACE and Lowes. I'll let everyone know how the removal goes when i install some Yakima tracks.

 

[Riverrunner]

Just wanted to add my .2 cents...

I did this "repair" recently using this thread. It was pretty easy and took 3 or 4 hours but I took my time. The old sealant came off pretty easy. I didn't have any leaks that I knew of but then I've only had the camper since April. I'll use it in the wet season and wanted to be sure it was sealed up good.

I picked up a 100 pack of stainless screws (#10 self tapping 3/4") with washers at Fasenal for $23. I used 3M 4000 for the sealant I got from a fishing/marine store. As mentioned I put sealant into the hole and then a "dab" on the hole.

I also did the expanding foam into the corners as mentioned. Great tip by the way and makes perfect sense. It's kinda hard to tell how much I was putting in there but if you have a quiet work area you could hear the foam going in it. Make sure you press the tube firmly in the hole and your flat against the trim. I was a little worried about putting too much in but all it seemed to take was an application of a second or two. Should be good to go for a while now.

 

[liltex]

Can someone elaborate on
spray which foam ?
Where do you access and spray into the perimeter tubes?

 

[muttmaster]

Nice and easy to follow roof repair post. I am about to do the same before more rain. I actually read the direction on the 3M sealant...it says to NOT use alcohol based cleaner as they prevent cure. Acetone is ok.

 

[Wallowa]

Doody,

Good write-up....hope our one piece roof on '16 Hawk never leaks; but nothing is 100%. Let us hear how the repair holds up.

Oh...I see where you live by your avatar....avoid Maverick's! Don't want to lose a member.

Phil

 

[super doody]

Doody,

Good write-up....hope our one piece roof on '16 Hawk never leaks; but nothing is 100%. Let us hear how the repair holds up.

Oh...I see where you live by your avatar....avoid Maverick's! Don't want to lose a member.

Phil

I sold the camper and truck 2 yrs ago. I have a 2015 Hawk. Mavericks is glorious from shore or by boat. Myself and probably 99.9% of the surfing population have no intentions to ever surf it or attempt to surf it.