Norcold 323 Refrig Propane will not ignite

menoco

Advanced Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2011
Messages
41
Location
Wyoming
I’ve a Hawk. On just-completed trip, couldn’t get the Norcold model 323 3-way refrig to ignite and thus couldn’t run refrig on propane. Our Hawk is a 2002, but had been lightly used until I bought is last fall. I see a small spark when i push down igniter.
Did find a similar thread from 2008. The suggestions included using a butane igniter or matches into viewing window, and priming refrig using stove. Is trying to ignite directly with lighter or match OK?
Also, Norcold OM says that propane doesn’t work well or stay lit above 5500 feet. I live at 6,200’. Norcold’s solution is to use AC. Neither a satisfactory or always-available fix.
Only other possible solution is to remove and clean burner orifice. OM says that MUST be done by authorized dealer. We’ve an RV repair shop that’s a Norcold authorized service center, but charges $120/hour.
Advice?
Armando
 
I remember a thread that had pictures (we love pictures) on cleaning the burner, but could not find it. Did find this one. and another one

Before I spend too much $$$ on it I would look at a DC fridge, fixes all the problems with propane.

Bill
 
I use a 1/2" diameter wire brush that is used for cleaning copper fittings to clean the slots on the stainless pipe that delivers the gas. http://www.amazon.com/Tough-Guy-1VAH3-Copper-Fitting/dp/B001GBO008
If you bend the handle, then it's possible to poke it inside the housing and clean it without disassembly, but you can do a better job if you do remove the cowling.

I have also flicked a bic to ignite the flame when all else failed. :oops:
 
I recently had the same problem. I did what Lighthawk said and everything is perfect. I used a stick lighter to get mine going and it kept blowing out so I figured it needed a cleaning. I took the shield off and used a can of air along with a small wire pipe cleaner. Just work the brush around a bit and brush the entire burner and blow a little air once in a while. It lit on the second push of the pizo and never blew out in 4 days. I was glad it was an easy fix. I don't think mine had ever been cleaned as it has a lot build up on it.
 
Same problem on my used Hawk(05). Previous owner told me never used the propane option on the fridge. It wouldn't light via the sparker, I removed guard plate and blew out the flame area with compressed air, still no go via sparker. I resorted to using a long tipped grill lighter and had to hold it there for awhile( 1-2 min.), it finally ignited. No problem since, I suspect the dirty flame tip and system needing purging was to blame. If I was buying a new rig, I would opt for the 2 way fridge and a dual battery system with about a 300 watt solar panel.
 
Thanks. Must admit, however, that IRIL’s 26-step procedure to clean the orifice makes the RV repair shop look like a good option - but then, I don’t believe its tech would do that conscientious a job. Best answer would be hire IRIL to do it!
Lighthawk and others, the wire brush-compressed air definitely worth a try. Will then try again with my long lighter.
The Norcold 323 has almost no controls. High and low on propane only. Once lit, it does seem that best way to use refrig is DC power when on the road and switch to propane at the campsite. Hope I’m not creating another problem, since my camper battery is barely charged enough to dimly light camper after 2,200 miles of driving. The problematic electrical system of my Hawk, however, should be subject of another, future post.
Armando
 
Armando, the draw on DC is likely the issue with low battery. I run my propane when on the road.i think it has blown out only once.
 
leadsled9. That's an excellent link. Don't know how N300 and 323 differ. Will examine mine soon - at least when temp gets above 0, which may not be today.
Lighthawk. On this trip, I don't think poor charging was from DC operation, since I didn't put refrig on DC. I’ve had problems with the electrical system since the beginning. On this trip, I think that the furnace fan basically drained the camper battery, coming on repeatedly even with thermostat at lowest setting (it has no on-off switch), and with gas closed off, and with the black/appliance switch turned off. This happened last winter with the camper off my truck. The only way to shut off furnace fan is to disconnect battery or pull its fuse. Never have found what the black/appliance switch controls. Seems to be only lights. Furnace fans still runs when switch is off.
 
Go down to Wally World and pick up a cheap thermostat like this Hunter unit.

It's programmable and you can turn it on and off with ease.

Great upgrade for very little $.
 

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hard to believe, but there's still a place on earth w/o a Walmart. I've looked, even under all our snow and no Wally World. Probably why god gave us amazon. also, FWC has one for just $12, and I'll follow your suggestion and switch out thermostat.
Now back to the refrig.
 
Lighthawk said:
Armando, the draw on DC is likely the issue with low battery. I run my propane when on the road.i think it has blown out only once.
Andy,how do you keep the flame from going out while driving down the road?I tried it this last trip and couldn't keep it lit while traveling hwy speeds.
I even made a small shield around the burner area but no luck.I would like to not run the fridge on DC down the road if at all possible.
Thanks
Frank
 
Frank, we don't have any issues keeping the fridge lit in the Airstream and in the Caribou. I wonder if the smaller fridge, with two vents is the difference. I think I would try blocking one to see if that would help.

Just remember to turn it off before getting fuel.
 
Casa Escarlata Robles Too said:
Andy,how do you keep the flame from going out while driving down the road?I tried it this last trip and couldn't keep it lit while traveling hwy speeds.
I even made a small shield around the burner area but no luck.I would like to not run the fridge on DC down the road if at all possible.
Thanks
Frank
I don't do anything special. I shut the inspection port and leave the fridge on propane. I believe a number of other members do the same. The DC option would be nice, but it's not efficient with the NorCold. When our fridge goes south, I'll be looking at an Engel or similar compressor option. My main complaint with the 3-way is the tendency to freeze our veggies. On our last cold weather trip (25F), even setting the fridge on low caused our lettuce to freeze. :(
 
Mine hasn't blown out either. This fridge is better than the one I had in a hardside. It would blow out once in a while when a semi would go by. FWIW when I was having starting issues, the flame was going out a lot while traveling. After I cleaned it, it stayed lit even when driving with a decent wind outside.
 
My 3-way used to blow out every now and then while driving. Here's the fix:
http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/1111-tech-tip-auto-relighter-for-propane-refrigerators/?hl=%2Brefrigerator+%2Brelighter

Since then I've switched to a dc fridge....no more cleaning the vents....no more freezing vegies...no more problems getting cold enough when it's over 100 degrees....no more constant monitoring every day (several times a day) to keep at proper temperature....no more having to be perfectly level to work....no more having to turn off and then relight for fuel stops....etc.
 
Lighthawk said:
I don't do anything special. I shut the inspection port and leave the fridge on propane. I believe a number of other members do the same. The DC option would be nice, but it's not efficient with the NorCold. When our fridge goes south, I'll be looking at an Engel or similar compressor option. My main complaint with the 3-way is the tendency to freeze our veggies. On our last cold weather trip (25F), even setting the fridge on low caused our lettuce to freeze. :(
Thanks Andy.Freezing isn't a problem as we use it as a freezer and keep a Truckfridge,like Ski's in the back of the truck cab.
I did notice on our last trip that the lower door was bent at the latch area. I fixed that with a strip of 1/8 aluminum pop riveted along the bottom to make it stiffer.
Haven't had a chance to see if this takes care of the problem.
My fridge is a 3 way.I do run it on DC for some part of driving,but usually turn it off at last gas stop before camp so that the battery gets a good charge.
Thanks Frank
 
meneco, I found it very simple to disassemble the burner tube and give it a good cleaning. A couple screwdrivers, end wrenches for gas line fittings, and a small wire brush are the tools needed. My Norcold quit lighting after 8 or 9 years, and after I cleaned it, it lights easier than I ever remembered. There are slits cut into the burner tube where the gas exits and where the flame is. On mine, these slits were completely plugged with black crusty build-up. I picked it clean and shined it up with a wire brush. I didn't take pics, but I'm sure if you ran into questions you could post here with pics, and folks on this forum will walk you through it. Go for it!
Those DC units are the way to go, but they are pricey.
I also drive with propane on. Never had a flame-out.
 

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