Plywood floor thickness?

[Riverrunner]

Does anyone know the thickness of the plywood used for the floor an 05 Grandby? I need to start building my "lift kit" for the new to me camper and need to know how much wood I have to screw too and not come up throught the floor. Some of the build photo's I've seen looks like more than 1/2"....maybe 3/4"?

Also...if anyone happens to have the dimensions of the floor, that would be cool too. I'm assuming the bottom is 48". The rear (wide part at the tailgate is 58 or 59"?

I'd like to butcher boards this weekend, get them painted, pre-drilled and get screws so I'm ready to roll. Since I wont have the jacks mounted for a while (another project) I need to make the lift permanent when I got get it.

I'd call the FWC but most of them are camping at the FWC rally this weekend. Thanks!

 

[jbahr]

It is 5/8" ply.

Length is 96"
Width at front 48"
Width at rear 57-1/2"

 

[pods8]

Jason didn't get to go play...

 

[jbahr]

Jason didn't get to go play...



Haha...yeah, Chicali and I have stayed behind and we are heading out tomorrow.

 

[rotti]

Why use heavy wood?
Many just use foam Insulation:

"The high density foam board has tremendous PSI capacity and weighs next to nothing. It makes ZERO sense to me to haul around extra lumber. I have been using the same 4 pieces for 5 years with zero compression. It also makes a great loading aid; I have a piece of tape on the center of the front of my TC and the foam is 2x8 so it has a nice center line to load with. My only regret is buying the pink stuff from H Depot when I could have had blue from Lowe's. It really does not need to be complicated."

From here with other ideas: http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/26696184.cfm

 

[Riverrunner]

It is 5/8" ply.

Length is 96"
Width at front 48"
Width at rear 57-1/2"


Thank you! Love this forum!!!!

Sorry you didn't get to go play with the rest of the gang today.

Why use heavy wood?
Many just use foam Insulation:

"The high density foam board has tremendous PSI capacity and weighs next to nothing. It makes ZERO sense to me to haul around extra lumber. I have been using the same 4 pieces for 5 years with zero compression. It also makes a great loading aid; I have a piece of tape on the center of the front of my TC and the foam is 2x8 so it has a nice center line to load with. My only regret is buying the pink stuff from H Depot when I could have had blue from Lowe's. It really does not need to be complicated."

From here with other ideas: http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/26696184.cfm


I looked at foam board a Lowe's last night. $27 for a sheet. 2x4's are $2/ea and I only need 3. Weight isn't an issue for me. My plan was to just run boards cross-ways on the bottom...probably 5 of them equally spaced. I had to do this on the 9.5' hardside camper I had years ago that weighed out at 4000lb (wet). This was how the factory told me to do it. Simple, cheap, and effective. I only plan on 2 screws per board, as it just has to hold it there. I've got a heavey 1/2" rubber bed mat too.

Unless of course JBahr doesn't think that will support the camper well enough?

 

[RJones]

It has been awhile but I think someone at ATC stated the rigid base was required to maintain the integrity of the aluminum framing. I can’t find the reference but maybe someone from ATC/ Four Wheel can chime in.

 

[Riverrunner]

Here is what I'm thinking... see attachement. Seems like this will allow the frame to flex with the bed and will not add rigidity like boxing it in would. Adding rigidty is counter intuitive to me....

 

[jbahr]

Here is what I'm thinking...


I think that will work just fine.

 

[Riverrunner]

Thanks!

 

[Brad's Dad]

It has been awhile but I think someone at ATC stated the rigid base was required to maintain the integrity of the aluminum framing. I can’t find the reference but maybe someone from ATC/ Four Wheel can chime in.


Comments from 4WC would really be appreciated! Or maybe I'll just call

I am setting up to use my 2004 Hawk for the summer with a lot of miles planned. Weight savings would be great with foam board. On a 2006 Tundra double cab.

Thanks, Fred

 

[Riverrunner]

Comments from 4WC would really be appreciated! Or maybe I'll just call



I think FWC did reply when JBahr posted. The 2x4's worked perfect and allows full flexing of the frame. Boxing it in would stiffen things up and reduce the flexing which is why I did what I did. If you're worried about the little bit of extra weight, the foam board would be a good option.

 

[Ted]

Rather than having the boards go across the beds, I built my platform with them going front to back. The bottom of the camper is not just flat plywood (at least not on my '03 Hawk). If you raise the camper you will see 1x4's running the length of the camper below the plywood. I placed my platform boards to line up exactly with those for solid support.