Power connection help

Dirt Rider

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2019
Messages
164
Having a hard time finding clean and better connections to my batter, any ideas? This is mine
battery.jpg
 
A couple of ideas. Stop into a carparts store and get a connector that has an additional vertical stud to flatten out the wire distribution, and after cleaning and reconnecting the terminals, spray some battery terminal protectant over it. NAPA and others have those.
 
Hot water for tea or coffee add baking soda. Pour it over the terminal and use a scrub brush will clean nutrurelize the acid.
 
pvstoy said:
Hot water for tea or coffee add baking soda. Pour it over the terminal and use a scrub brush will clean nutrurelize the acid.
... then air dry and coat with rattle can paint. That should seal out acidic fumes.
 
Was thinking of some of the connections audio shops use, but the tend not to be a lug connection, rather a set screw which I dont think is as good, as you can see I switched to a military style clamp, but still not clean or enough connections. Noticed some people using a copper plate, which may work.
 
Sorry for the confusion if you guys thought it was a cleaning issue, rather clean appearance..
 
I like those from CKENT 323, thanks. Wonder how they hold up under an engine compartment?
 
Dirt Rider,

I use the black version for multiple grounds for added components. I have a single short ground coming to it from the battery. I was initially worried about the plastic cover but it works fine.

I have a mess on my positive terminal similar to yours and I have the red terminal block with the larger lug screws but have not installed it yet. It is plenty robust.
 
First thing is to clock the terminals. They usually have the ring offset so that it is roughly tangent to the insulation rather than being centered on the wire. Clock two wires back to back and they nest together like there's only one wire there. Not all pre-made battery cables have this feature, but the better ones do. Or make them if you have or can borrow a proper crimper. I buy all of the bits except for the adhesive lined heat-shrink from my local Powerstride Battery store. The H-S I get from West Marine because the Ancor product they sell is very good.

Second thing is that you can put some of the lugs under the bolt head, they don't all have to be on the nut side.

Those two things should clean up the situation.

When I do employ an isolated stud I use one like these: https://www.amazon.com/Fastronix-Stainless-Single-Ground-Junction/dp/B01LM01CNA/ as that usually enough and I prefer that the connection be made directly thru the lugs rather than having to go into the dist. block and then back out.


12 valve, eh? :)
 
I used a saw blade to create a new lug location mid span between bolt ends. So far so good for me.
 

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Yup 92 W250, hope to have a build thread on here at some point, need to up the quality of the work so I can keep up with others on the site!
 

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