Power Stop Brakes

What does the kit you're looking at include? Unless it incorporates larger diameter or wider or heavier discs (i.e. with more center vanes) it's unlikely it will hugely improve your stopping and/or resistance to fade. I think I've linked to this article before but it's worth doing again. Just upgrading pads and brake fluid (from DOT 3 to DOT 4 or 5.1) can accomplish a lot.
 
JHanson said:
What does the kit you're looking at include? Unless it incorporates larger diameter or wider or heavier discs (i.e. with more center vanes) it's unlikely it will hugely improve your stopping and/or resistance to fade. I think I've linked to this article before but it's worth doing again. Just upgrading pads and brake fluid (from DOT 3 to DOT 4 or 5.1) can accomplish a lot.
Click to expand...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AGBQZHE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
Based on the response in a similar post, so far the consensus of slotted/drilled rotors is claimed to be BS and the only benefit is to the seller through marketing. I have read JHanson's article but also multiple articles supporting the benefits of these and similar aftermarket rotors.

There are hundreds upon hundreds of excellent reviews and results using the Power Stop products. Are this many people paid off to post false reviews for the last 35 years?

Perhaps it is the thicker Carbon fiber-ceramic compound used in the Power Stop pads that is offering smoother, quicker stops and longer life?

I would still like to hear from anyone who has personal experience with this product on a hauling/towing vehicle.
I find there are usually 3 sides to every story when solely based on internet research.
  1. That of the supporter
  2. That of the hater
  3. That of the truth which rests somewhere in the middle.
 
You seem to have lumped me in among the "haters," which is simply wrong. It was my determination to uncover the truth that led to a several-week-long investigation of aftermarket brake systems, including phone calls with several engineers. None of those engineers—not one—was a proponent of cross-drilled discs. Sure, you can line up a bunch of people who will say otherwise—most of whom are either selling "upgrade" kits or have spent a chunk of change on "upgrade" kits that included drilled discs. Many of the latter might indeed be experiencing better performance with the kit they bought—but it won't be due to the cross-drilled discs in the kit. The only benefit to cross-drilled discs, according to those engineers with whom I spoke, is a slightly better initial bite in wet conditions. But even that is transitory as the pads quickly squeegee off water. Otherwise those holes simply reduce the mass of the disc, which reduces its ability to absorb and transfer heat, thus reducing, not enhancing, its performance.

I found exactly one independent test that showed superior performance from cross-drilled discs—and even that article mentioned nothing about the supposed cooling effect. I saved the article as research material, but it was an outlier.

As I mentioned in the article, the simplest and cheapest way to "upgrade" stock brakes is with a premium set of pads (more resistant to glazing) and high-temperature brake fluid (more resistant to boiling). Otherwise you should be looking for a kit that incorporates larger diameter or wider discs, or discs with more vent slots in the center (making them heavier than stock).
 
All I'm looking for is to increase my breaking power how ever I can. I'm not by any means hung up on the slotted/drilled issue. I do respect reviews of those with first hand experience and have had great success with other upgrades using those reviews as my compass. If the Power Stops provide me with enhanced braking, that is all I'm after regardless of how that is accomplished. I have ordered the full kit, and now I think, based on this discussion, I will also order some high quality pads separately. My local 4wd shop is owned by a my good friend with over 30 years of experience with pushing trucks to their limits. If he says forget the rotors and just go with better pads, then that is what we shall do. I have a call into him as to which pads he would recommend.

I love the idea here of Dot 4 fluid, thanks for that. Any suggestions on a great pad manufacture?

Just doing the pads only would be an awesome savings of around $400 just in parts not to mention the cost in labor savings.
 
I'm not current enough on pads to offer proper advice. There are a lot of new variations coming out!

I'd be very interested to hear more when you've made your modifications and tried them.
 
The problem with drilled rotors is that they are crack initiators. Think about what is going on there. A rotor is where the kinetic energy of the vehicle is converted into heat, they get hot. Sometimes really, really hot. I've seen race cars with them glowing orange-red! I doubt many street vehicles get them that hot, but you get my point.

When they get hot the metal expands. Those holes are discontinuities that cause unequal thermal expansion which results in internal stress in the metal of the rotor. That stress is the greatest around those holes, and will eventually crack the rotor starting at those holes. Having been involved in racing and in the design of disc brake systems some time ago I can't say that I've ever seen a drilled rotor that did not have cracks in it excepting those that were still in the box.

Why were those holes were first drilled in early racing rotors? The early pad compounds tended to out-gas when they got hot. This resulted in a layer of gas between the pad and the rotor. The holes were drilled as a way to get that layer out from between the pad and the rotor. Pads that did this haven't been made for over 40 years, but people see holes in old race car rotors and assume that they are a good thing. No marketing person worth their pay would pass up that opportunity to sell more rotors. That they crack prematurely just means more rotor sales than ever.

There is no way that I would ever put drilled rotors on my vehicles. Not just no, but hell no!

I'm not up on current pad compounds either, but those can only do so much and then if you need more then you're at the point where JHanson's advice of bigger diameter rotors is your next step.
A simple Rule of Thumb for brake rotors: Larger OD = Increased Brake Torque; Increased thickness = Better fade resistance. Those are more intermingled than that, but the RoT is a good basic guide.
 
ntsqd said:
A simple Rule of Thumb for brake rotors: Larger OD = Increased Brake Torque; Increased thickness = Better fade resistance. Those are more intermingled than that, but the RoT is a good basic guide.
Click to expand...
Thom, that is an excellent rule of thumb; I never thought of it that way.
 
Ok guys, I totally get the rational behind the research based knowledge and the physics involved. I understand that "bigger" rotors are the best way to increase braking. I compare the larger diameter of the rotor moving the force applied to the pads further away from the center, like using a longer handle on a wrench to create more torque. This is all awesome information and very much appreciated.

That said, my original question was aimed toward anyone with personal experience regarding the use of the Power Stop Truck/Tow brakes. That response is still yet to be offered here.

I spoke with my friend at my 4wd shop and he has had great, personal experience with this product and so have others he has installed the brakes for. He is recommending going with the rotors and the full kit.

I'm deciding to take one for the team on this. I will instal the full kit and see how it goes. The kit is normally $880 and I got it on sale for $518 (I know I know, wonder why it is on sale hahaha!) Anyway we need a review here based on personal experience and use of the actual product. Believe me that if it truly offers no increased stopping ability, excessive overheating and fading, premature wear, cracking or complete failure, I will be the first to say so and admit that they are a big waste of money.

My Chevy has the tow/haul mode and I find with that my brakes have got huge relief on long, steep grades. I have a place in Shelter Cove, Humboldt CA. Anyone who has driven that road knows it is a brake assassin! I have towed many large boats and travel trailers down that road. I use to do it with a 99 Suburban (no tow/haul mode). My brakes would be SMOKING! 2/3rds of the way down. With my newer truck and the tow/haul mode, I have not smoked the brakes yet. The grade braking with the transmission takes A LOT of responsibility off the brakes. My hope is if I use my gearing properly, I will not get the brakes hot enough to have problems with the rotors getting too hot. I think the Carbon fiber-ceramic pads with the kit are worth a try.

Wish me luck, I will update my findings as I put these brakes though some field testing.
 
JHanson said:
I for one look forward to your conclusions!
Click to expand...
Thank you very much. I by all means respect you and your vast experience, knowledge and years of dedication to the craft of overlanding! I'm just one of those crazy folks who try to answer all their questions by questioning all the answers. Updates to come!
 
The Shelter Cove road is indeed a test on brakes. I learned to drive on that road when I was 15 years old, back then the road was gravel and narrow. At that time the roads at the Cove were just being developed as they are today. My best friends father was the person who owned the company that did the work. We used to drive around the Cove when there were no homes. And yes the Cove road will test anyones brakes. Your '99 Chevy Sub was not known to get great mileage from the brakes, we had alot of complaints at dealership about light truck brakes back then. Your upgrade to your brakes will be tested on the Cove road. I was just at the Cove salmon fishing with my buddy Louie. Fishing was great, as always!!
 
fish more said:
The Shelter Cove road is indeed a test on brakes. I learned to drive on that road when I was 15 years old, back then the road was gravel and narrow. At that time the roads at the Cove were just being developed as they are today. My best friends father was the person who owned the company that did the work. We used to drive around the Cove when there were no homes. And yes the Cove road will test anyones brakes. Your '99 Chevy Sub was not known to get great mileage from the brakes, we had alot of complaints at dealership about light truck brakes back then. Your upgrade to your brakes will be tested on the Cove road. I was just at the Cove salmon fishing with my buddy Louie. Fishing was great, as always!!
Click to expand...
You lucky dog!!!!!!!!!! I can't imagine the Cove with no houses. It has gotten progressively more crowded over the years. I still manage to get some, off season strike missions with minimal people tho. Glad you scored! I'm heading up there in two weeks, hopefully with my new Klamath windshield model (if the motor I ordered 9 months ago arrives). BIG fish there as you know.
 
dennis 221 said:
Stock is best
Click to expand...
IME it's pretty rare that the stock brakes are able to handle more then one panic stop without a significant cool-down period when the truck is at or over GVWR. Factor in the slightly larger to much larger tires we tend to favor and they become hopelessly unable to dissipate the generated heat in a reasonably short time frame. If the truck is all stock and under GVWR then the stock brakes may be enough. That will come down to driver ability and style.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads - WTW

GL
1999-2003 F350 SD 7.3 PSD / Power Master 9051 Starter Motor
Glenn
GL
TU
Tundra Hawk Suspension Mods
JHanson
JHanson
JA
2024 Tacoma with FWC?
Upland Roamer
Upland Roamer
cabinguy
For sale 2012 TRD Tacoma Access Cab truck + 2015 FWC Fleet Popup Camper
cabinguy
cabinguy
MU
**SOLD** 2012 F250. 2010 Hallmark
mudmony
MU

New posts - WTW

Back
Top Bottom