Pre-Wired Solar- FWC Didn't Cut Solar Connector +/- Wires?

[portermoab]

Hi All- after a few hours of confusion trying to install a solar controller in my 2018 Raven, I think I found the issue, although I want to check before I cut the positive and negative wires.

It appears that FWC did not cut the positive and negative wires for the solar controller after the wago connection. As I believe it should go, there should be a two positive and two negative wires coming into the wago connection (coming from the roof and rear solar plugs). One positive and one negative wire should leave the wago connection from the middle terminal (this wire is labeled battery/solar connection). Shortly after leaving the wago connection the positive and negative wires should be cut so that it can be wired into the PV input on the solar charger (essentially where they bend in the photo below). Then, the other side of these wires should be wired into the battery output on the solar charger, which then continues to the battery compartment. Does this make sense? Currently it's just one continuous wire from the wago connection to the battery compartment, which makes me think FWC just didn't cut the wires.

Here's a photo if it helps.

Thanks for any input...just wanting to double check before cutting the positive and negative battery/solar connection wire after the wago connection.

Neal

 

[ri-f]

Hi All- after a few hours of confusion trying to install a solar controller in my 2018 Raven, I think I found the issue, although I want to check before I cut the positive and negative wires.

It appears that FWC did not cut the positive and negative wires for the solar controller after the wago connection. As I believe it should go, there should be a two positive and two negative wires coming into the wago connection (coming from the roof and rear solar plugs). One positive and one negative wire should leave the wago connection from the middle terminal (this wire is labeled battery/solar connection). Shortly after leaving the wago connection the positive and negative wires should be cut so that it can be wired into the PV input on the solar charger (essentially where they bend in the photo below). Then, the other side of these wires should be wired into the battery output on the solar charger, which then continues to the battery compartment. Does this make sense? Currently it's just one continuous wire from the wago connection to the battery compartment, which makes me think FWC just didn't cut the wires.

Here's a photo if it helps.

Thanks for any input...just wanting to double check before cutting the positive and negative battery/solar connection wire after the wago connection.

Neal

Yes, you need to cut the wire after the wago, that's how FWC terminates the solar wiring.
Also, a Blue Seas (or other reliable, thermal) circuit breaker before and after the controller is advisable and convenient.

Rich

 

[portermoab]

Thanks Rich!

 

[portermoab]

Rich- am I correct in that I could alternatively cut the +/- wires where they enter the battery compartment and mount the controller there? Is there any practical difference in the battery compartment vs. under the sink?

Thanks,

Neal

 

[ri-f]

Rich- am I correct in that I could alternatively cut the +/- wires where they enter the battery compartment and mount the controller there? Is there any practical difference in the battery compartment vs. under the sink?

Thanks,

Neal

Hi Neal,
Yes, definitely, you can mount the controller near the battery. It's a good place for it as it keeps the wire runs shorter. Besides, mounting the controller under a sink might expose it to the risk of a water leak on the off chance of one of your water hoses or hose clamps failed. Not saying you can't mount the controller there, but between those two locations, next to the battery makes the most sense, where it's dry and the wire run is short. I mounted my Victron 100/30 controller next to my Lithium battery, I mounted my B2B charger there as well. You can see a photo of the installation if you like by following the link in my sig, below.

Best,
Rich

 

[Karlton]

Hi Neal - below is the wiring diagram for my 2017 Hawk. The controller is in the battery compartment. You'll notice I used the wires coming from the Wago into the battery compartment to attach to the controller. I then had to wire the batteries to the controller. I also added a battery volt meter.

 

[Vic Harder]

I agree with Rich.... good idea to cut the wires and mount in the battery box

 

[portermoab]

Thanks guys. I put it in the battery box, which definitely makes sense.

I have another question re: the ZAMP SAE plug on the roof of the camper, which is wired with reverse polarity. It seems like my options for connecting two Renogy panels to the roof plug is either: (1) buy a MC4 to SAE adapter plug, but then deal with a bunch of plug sticking out of the roof or, (2) cut the current MC4 wires and solder on the 90 degree reverse polarity SAE plug that came from FWC. My only concern is that the wires from the solar panels are 10 AWG but the 90 degree plug is 12 AWG. Any problem with mixing these wire gauges?

Thanks,

Neal

 

[ri-f]

Thanks guys. I put it in the battery box, which definitely makes sense.

I have another question re: the ZAMP SAE plug on the roof of the camper, which is wired with reverse polarity. It seems like my options for connecting two Renogy panels to the roof plug is either: (1) buy a MC4 to SAE adapter plug, but then deal with a bunch of plug sticking out of the roof or, (2) cut the current MC4 wires and solder on the 90 degree reverse polarity SAE plug that came from FWC. My only concern is that the wires from the solar panels are 10 AWG but the 90 degree plug is 12 AWG. Any problem with mixing these wire gauges?

Thanks,

Neal

Neal,
Up on the roof the connections need to be rock solid - waterproof and UV protected. Try to keep your adapters and connections to a bare minimum up there. If you must cut and solder, then 10 AWG and 12 AWG are close enough in size, e.g., the yellow butt connectors are sized 10-12 AWG. Be sure to use heat shrink over the wires.

Rich

.

 

[Vic Harder]

Adding to what Rich suggested, use weather sealing heat shrink, consider using conductive paste on the bare wires before crimping, and putting the whole connection into a weather proof box.