Raising the camper

buckland

Senior Member
Site Team
Joined
Jul 26, 2011
Messages
3,105
Location
New England
I have contacted FWC about the install of my Eagle on the new Colorado (diesel)...have to raise it about 1.75" to be over the bed side rails. I have seen both horizontal and vertical "2x4" additions to the base to raise it. Is there a benefit either way I am missing? Any experienced advice about method as I know they use stacked ply strips to boost the height (and they go horizontal). I was thinking of perhaps using pressure treated 2x4 (1 5/8" x 3 1/2") and running them vertically so that I could install perhaps a drain pipe for grey water tank to the back. Though not completely related...is there a problem with removing a lift assist tailgate?
 
I would rather make it the right height with the least amount of weight possible, stacking even 1 extra layer of plywood adds a lot of weight
 
Has anyone tried using TREX decking material instead of wood? No painting needed, and no moisture absorption (I think).

One other thing to think about is how much space will there be between the top of the truck cab and the underside of the "cab over bed". You want enough to be able to twist the truck cab and truck bed without hitting each other when going off road, yet you don't want too much that will catch a lot of wind on the flat, front wall of the camper (under the cab over bed)
 
The ply that is added is not a sheet... it is 3" strips stacked. Trex weighs a lot, is quite slick and holds static charge. Indeed the two measures: rail and cab over height must be correlated. The owens-Corning Formula is what isa installed below an exterior door threshold?
 
Buckland, whatever you do "DO NOT USE PRESSURE TREATED LUMBER" 6-7 years ago the Federal Government required a change in the treating of lumber. The chemical is highly corrosive. It will eat right through galvanized screws in months and stainless in 4-6. Any place it contacts staples or fasteners on your camper, they will be gone. Not to mention the possible damage to anything steel on your truck. How do I know? I'm a building envelope consultant and our firm has investigated numerous roof blow-offs that started with the failure of the perimeter wood blocking due to corrosion of fasteners. The roofing industry now specifies only nominal wood. Paint your cross members with the FWC coating. This has been a serious building issue. Hate to see anyone on this forum learn the hard way. JD

Sent from my SM-G900V using Wander The West mobile app
 
I like the idea of using the Formular, but is it rigid enough? I'm wondering if it might compress over time.
 
buckland said:
The owens-Corning Formula is what isa installed below an exterior door threshold?
Owens-Corning Foamular 150 (sorry, mistyped the name) is rigid pink extruded polystyrene foam insulation in 4'x 8' sheets. I have a 1" sheet under my Grandby for 2 years with no problems.
 
Thanks for the warning longhorn1 ... love avoiding that kind of 'experience' ... I will stick to either marine ply cut to strips or good ole spruce 2x4 material heavily coated with porch paint. Seems like the simplest solution. FWC puts theirs side to side I just might acquiesce to their experience on squeaky floors and do the same.
If there is a Colorado 2016 owner with a FWC out there who has done theirs let me know your experience.
 
JaSAn said:
Owens-Corning Foamular 150 (sorry, mistyped the name) is rigid pink extruded polystyrene foam insulation in 4'x 8' sheets. I have a 1" sheet under my Grandby for 2 years with no problems.
As a contractor I would reccomend using a higher density board like the OC Foamular 250. It will compress less (if at all in this application) and provide you with some much needed insulation as well.
 
A friend made a shim out of 2 X 4 aluminum to move his 2006 Kestral (todays Hawk) from a first gen Tundra to a 2013 Chev Silverado. Light but expensuve.
 
Fasten to the cross strip that FWC has and you could install insulation between to support the floor.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Wander The West mobile app
 
I use 2 inch blue styrofome [sp] rubber matt on the bottom, works fine. Your tailgate comes off just like the old ones. I have a 2015 chevy and i remove ours. Mitch
 
For what it's worth FWC just did my Grandby in my 2011 F-350 and they used the plywood strips across the bottom of the camper floor. I might add another 1" of strips but otherwise works.
 
The rigid blue foam in-between the ply strips sounds like a good idea. the floor can get quite cool with it laying on the metal bed. Great to have all these brains to pick. Appreciate the input. Good to hear as well the tailgate won't be an issue.
 
Here is a shot from FWC of their installed cross ply strips
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0070.jpg
    IMG_0070.jpg
    94.3 KB · Views: 174
Buckland, you want to install a rubber floor mat in your bed or spray in bed linner. I have both
The rubber mat will provide a small amount of R-value, at least removing any thermal bridge from the steel bed. Jd

Sent from my SM-G900V using Wander The West mobile app
 

New posts - WTW

Back
Top Bottom