Replace, Upgrade, or Repair Norcold Fridge/Freezer?

[klahanie]

Thx for the follow up.
Do you have another LPG regulator to try ?

 

[foakes]

No, this one is brand new — because I wanted to eliminate this first — it is set for 11 WC — but I did not check it myself. Got it from a local RV store. Are they adjustable?

Best,

Fred

 

[klahanie]

Some. The newer adj type I've seen are obvious, with a large knob. But the one in my camper has a screw cap above the diaphragm. Unscrewing that cap reveals a large adj screw (I assume that's what it's for).

I think many of the cheapies have a complete metal body with no provision for adjustment.

It was just an idea - I had one once that was flaky. But seems you're ahead of me.

Hope you solve it soon !

EDIT


This one sorta like my camper:

 

[ntsqd]

If you have or can find a gauge to plumb into the gas supply downstream of the regulator you could determine pretty fast if its the regulator or not. At 11" WC you could almost gauge it with a manometer, but I'd worry about the gas bubbling thru the liquid. Maybe you can figure out a gauge isolator so it can't?

 

[Old Crow]

Sorry to see it's fighting you, Fred.

Does it do the same thing on the old regulator?

I don't think I'd mess with adjusting the new regulator without a measurement. I guess you could keep track of exactly how much you adjust the screw but that could be easy to lose track of if you're not careful. If the fridge does the same flame-out thing on the old regulator, I'd try adjusting that one before I'd mess with the new one.

Offhand, it seems very odd that you would get a strong blue flame and then the shut-down on a regulator issue. I can't envision what would be happening in the regulator.

I don't know how the thermocouple is mounted but can its position be adjusted in the flame?

Also- what voltage reading are you seeing across the terminals of the interrupter?

(Click to enlarge)

 

[foakes]

I will check the new thermocouple again.

Seems like there are only two positions — all of the way into the holder, and directly in the flame — or pulled out a bit.

And I will check the M-Volts across the interrupter again.

With all that has been done, and replaced — it certainly seems like the Thermocoupler is giving a signal to the interrupter that causes the flame to go out.

Probably something simple that I am missing.

Thanks, Gentlemen — need to get to the bottom of this...

Best,

Fred

 

[ntsqd]

OH!!!

Change the propane tank and try it again. We once had the OPD valve or whatever it's called in the tank do EXACTLY that to us. I jumped in the tow'd and bailed out to Mal-Wart. Bought another tank and we were back in business.

 

[foakes]

Unfortunately, ntsqd — did that already — no change — still flames out.

We live in a remote area of the mountains, and receive shipment of LP about twice a year for our home — stove, oven, water heater, whole house furnace, dryer, automatic stand by generator.

So I always make sure we have (4) extra 5 gallon tanks full when they deliver, plus the 5 gallon horizontal camper tank. These are for the BBQ & Shop heater. Norcold Guy still has not responded to 2 emails and 2 phone calls over the last 3 days. Guess all they want to do is sell parts at twice the price of obtaining the exact same Norcold parts on Amazon. Do not have time for questions or answers, I guess.

Live and learn.

Thanks! You guys have been great in trying to help.

Best,

Fred

 

[cwdtmmrs]

I would pull the thermocouple out of the flame and heat it with a separate heat source like a propane torch or one of those mini butane torches. If it stays on then you know the fridge flame is not keeping it hot enough.

PS. I just read the entire thread again and you don't mention if you have any other LP appliances in the camper. If so, do they function ok? In No, do you a stove or a heater that you could temporarily hook up to your stove line?

It is almost acting like a car with a clogged fuel filter or kinked line.Is the copper line kinked or restricted anywhere? If you disconnect it from the stove, does it seem like enough gas comes out when you turn the tank on?

 

[Old Crow]

Fred, if you've not run through the troubleshooting chart in the N300 LP Mode Troubleshooting Service Bulletin, I'd give it a shot.

Note that you'll need to keep the gas safety valve pressed in to maintain flame during the tests.

You know, come to think of it, I wonder if pressing that gas safety valve wouldn't be useful in determining whether the problem is a gas or electric-based problem. If holding that valve open is how you keep the flame lit during testing and that flame does indeed stay lit while the various voltage tests are done, then it's probably not the tank, regulator, gas line, gas quality, etc causing the flameout.

.

 

[foakes]

Right, cwdt —

The stove and furnace work very well on the LP. There is also a HW heater, but we have never used that.

Thanks OC — I will run through the voltage checks on the TSB Troubleshooting chart again today.

Yesterday, I started to disassemble the burner box and the thermocoupler holder. Just going to clean up all of the contact points that touch each other, as well as the inside of the thermocoupler holder — so that a solid testing can be done of the millivolts at different points — so that there is no unwanted resistance present.

The flame is the best and strongest that we have ever had on this Norcold refrigerator, after all of the cleaning. Blue, complete across the burner tube slits, and seems very hot.

Best,

Fred

 

[cwdtmmrs]

Right, cwdt —

The stove and furnace work very well on the LP. There is also a HW heater, but we have never used that.

I think that would rule out anything to do with the tank or regulator

 

[foakes]

After 3 1/2 months of getting advice from the great members on this forum, the Norcold N.300.3 fridge/freezer in my 2002 Six-Pac Camper — is now repaired — and working better than when new.

Much was learned along the way — and I will share a little of what I learned, diagnosed, and discovered —

With the gas control valve set at # (3) of the 5 positions — the fridge now cools down to 40 degrees for a few days — or as long as I keep it running. I switched over to A/C this morning — just to check all systems.

Next, the shop manual diagnostic box procedure was helpful to eliminate possibilities as I went through the next/next steps, in order.

Ended up purchasing some parts — likely not all were needed — but now I do not need to worry about something that I may have tried to “get by” with.

Purchased (2) parts from the NorcoldGuy — prices were high — and his response to my emails for advice on next steps was “0”.

Purchased a new pair of wires that connect from the interrupter to the selector switch and gas valve.

Purchased a new interrupter.

Purchased a selector switch.

Purchased a thermocouple.

Purchased a new regulator for the gas system.

Purchased a complete gas valve assembly.

Replaced the burner tube and the orifice.

Spent about $400. A New unit would have been $850, delivered to my house from Adventure RV, the lowest price.

Prices for factory Norcold parts on Amazon — were approximately 1/3 to 1/2 less than going through the NC Guy, or Norcold.

All parts were sealed original Norcold parts.

Everything was completely cleaned of the crud and mud wasp infestation — plus, mesh screens were installed underneath the roof mounted chimney cap, and also on the (3) vents on the side exterior access for the rear of the fridge.

I will try to add some photos to this post using the procedures that Old Crow helped me with. We will see how that goes.

Thank you all — for all of the help and advice.

Project completed.

Best Always,

Fred

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

Good news! That’s some real determination!

 

[foakes]

A other question for the experts —

Likely an easier one.

When checking the LP gas pressure — I have a manometer that screws into the gas line — to adjust the pressure to 11WC.

I understand that this is important to do with maybe a couple of stove burners on along with the furnace?

I got this bright idea (maybe not) that a gauge could be mounted permanently in line somewhere.

Maybe in the fridge compartment rear access — or perhaps closer to the LP tank and compartment so there would not be a heat issue?

Or should I just use the portable manometer?

Thanks!

Best,

Fred

 

[Old Crow]

Hi, Fred...

Glad to see your fridge is working well. Thanks for letting us know how it turned out!

On your LPG question....

You may want to view this video about how LPG systems are tested by RV technicians. It's helpful for the principles behind the testing process and provides interesting details like gas-pressure ranges seen during the process and pressures acceptable to LPG appliances.

I don't think I'd permanently mount a manometer but only because I don't think it would be all that interesting. After a testing session to check that things seem to be working and not leaking down, I'd rely on seeing the signs of a developing problem by changes in flame color and sound at the stove, water heater, and/or furnace. And of course I'd respond immediately to the smell of LPG or to an alarm.
.

 

[foakes]

Thanks, OC —

I will follow your advice in not adding a gauge — plus the video was very helpful!

Best,

Fred

 

[foakes]

This topic was posted in the wrong place to start through my mistake...

Can an Administrator or Moderator please move it to a more appropriate category — such as Four Wheel Campers (it is the same company) — or another category that is more applicable?

I would appreciate that!

Thanks.

Best Regards,

Fred

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

Fred, because those refrigerators are used across multiple RV brands, my recommendation is to leave it here where more people will get exposure to your efforts.

 

[foakes]

Good idea, SB —

Hope it helps a few folks.

Best,

Fred