RFI: Northern Nebraska

JaSAn

Grumpy Old Man
Joined
Apr 18, 2014
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1,146
Location
Minnesota
I am looking for information on places in Nebraska that are worth taking side trips to visit. I plan on meandering from Wyoming back to Minnesota in late September/early October this fall. The current plan is to take US 20 until I angle back North to Minneapolis. I plan on taking a detour to the Bessey district of the Nebraska NF (thanks takesiteasy for an excellent report). Anything else? Takesiteasy's trip report was the only thing that came up on a search.

I prefer dispersed camping and doing wandering day hikes, but use primitive NF campgrounds or (shudder) developed campgrounds when necessary.

thanks, jim
 
Hey Jim-don't know if this will help but I pulled out my trusty old "Camping with the Corps of Engineers" guide book and there are a whole bunch of coe campgrounds off of US Route 136 near Republican City under the heading of Harlan County Lake. Further north near the state line is another bunch of COE cg's near Lewis and Clark Lake on HW 50 (Says it's got a place to store and use your seaplane :D ). Don't know anything about any of this info but It might be worth it to pick up a copy-lots of good data in that book. Happy camping!

Smoke
 
The western edge of Nebraska probably has the most scenery. Fort Robinson State Park and Chadron State Park both look scenic- haven't been to either though. We would like to see the spring migration of the sandhill cranes at the Platte river but there is nothing similar in the fall. Enjoy your visit to the sand hills.
 
Smokecreek1 said:
Hey Jim-don't know if this will help but I pulled out my trusty old "Camping with the Corps of Engineers" guide book and there are a whole bunch of coe campgrounds off of US Route 136 . . .
Thanks Smoke! Looks like a good resource to add.
Hang on to your 'trusty old' copy; Amazon lists the 2015 paperback version @ $115.46 Yikes :oops: (found it elsewhere on Amazon for $38.10, but I had to search)
I'll order 'The Wright Guide to Camping with the Corps of Engineers' for $18.00 unless someone here tells me different.

takesiteasy said:
The western edge of Nebraska probably has the most scenery. Fort Robinson State Park and Chadron State Park both look scenic- haven't been to either though. We would like to see the spring migration of the sandhill cranes at the Platte river but there is nothing similar in the fall. Enjoy your visit to the sand hills.
Thanks for the tips; I'll check them out.

You might want to check out Chegwatana State Forest east of Pine City. Camped there in early October a couple of years ago and the Sandhills were congregating along the St. Croix; a good 100 - 150 of them. Had to do some serious bushwhacking (and of course I didn't have my camera) to see them.

I have a mated pair nesting behind my house; they come up into the yard with their young to hunt in the compost pile and pick seeds under the bird feeders. Those are big, mean birds; I wouldn't want to get too close. A neighbor's bird dog got loose and took some serious damage from a very irate momma.

jim
 
Wow-my copy was only $15.95; it was written by (SgtMjr) S.I Hinkle and published by collage pubs,inc, po box 2832, Elkhart, In ,46515-2832. 1.800.272.5518. Happy camping :D!

Smoke
 
I'd snag a DeLorme for Nebraska, but beware of weirdness on actual field relations vs that or any map. My own experience, based on lots of map study and a little bit of on-the-ground exploring, is that there are lots of roads in the Sandhills which have all appearances to be public roads but which are instead ranch roads. That said, I was told that most ranchers welcome travelers if they'll just stop by the house and advise of their presence and politely request permission to pass through and/or camp in the cottonwoods at a pothole lake or stream crossing. Also, when calling the Cherry County Road Commissioner's office to check on some specific road circumstances, I was asked "you're not planning on coming out here with only a GPS to navigate by, are you?" Seems they find folks lost and stuck on sand roads well out of cell phone range regularly. My Verizon coverage was fair along NE-2 and in Crawford, Alliance, and Valentine, but nil elsewhere in the Sandhills.

As is said above, Fort Robinson SP at Crawford (and on US 20) is a recommended stop. It's a very well preserved US Army cavalry post complete with a large parade ground, rows of Victorian homes built as officers' quarters, a 3 story brick barracks now used as a hotel, extensive horse barns and veterinarian facilities, and a nifty geological museum of western Nebraska. Fort Robinson is west of the Sandhills but is in pleasing butte and mesa country with most of the bigger buttes being forested with scrub pine.

South-southeast of Crawford is Alliance, and just outside of Alliance is Carhenge. I wish I could have been at Carhenge for the eclipse last year as the weirdness factor must have been off the hook. Carhenge was within the zone of totality. Anyway, it's a hoot to see.

Starting just east of Alliance, the NE-2 highway, named the "Sandhills Scenic Journey" begins its 275 mile diagonal crossing of the Sandhills and loess hills leading to Grand Island. NE-2 is a beautiful drive--wide two-lane with wide paved shoulders and a 65 mph speed limit, with railroad towns every 8-12 miles. Lots and lots of great, long views of the largest of the Sandhills--grass covered dunes of 300' to 400' prominence.Halsey and its Nebraska NF campground is along NE-2 and right along the Middle Loup River. Great little campground, but it's also on the coal train railway which in 2015 featured 4 to 8 trains per night blowing the whistles for the crossing for the NF visitor center/campgrounds and for the village of Halsey just a couple of miles away. If reference to Bessey means Halsey, getting there from Alliance on NE-2 would be a good way to get there.

Close to Halsey (30 miles back west along NE-2?) is Mullen, NE. At Mullen, we took an afternoon excursion floating a 5 or 6 mile stretch of the Middle Loup River. This is done in large galvanized steel livestock watering troughs referred to as stock tanks, hence the term "tanking" is applied to the activity. Not as fitness-oriented as a hike, but a good way to see some cool Sandhills countryside nonetheless.

North of Mullen, up NE 97 (paved, but rough going), is the Samuel McKelvie unit of the Nebraska NF (or maybe it's its own NF unit?). The Snake River is dammed there to form the Merritt Reservoir. At the western edge of that unit is Steer Creek CG, a primitive CG within a stand of planted lodgepole pines. In 2015 our plans changed and we did not overnight there passing through, but we studied and area for hiking and other daily activities and found them appealing.

Valentine is the county seat of Cherry County, the largest county in NE and at the center of the Sandhills. The airstrip at Valentine is home to a dozen or two beater cars and trucks used by ranchers to drive from the airstrip into town for groceries, drugstore, etc, before they fly back to the ranch, which can be 100 miles and a 4-5 hour drive away. Float trips in canoes, kayaks and inflatable kayaks are offered on the Niobrara River in Valentine.

One planning thought: I don't know exactly when upland bird season is out in the Sandhills, but I'd find out before planning a trip requiring use of campgrounds. I understand the grouse, pheasant, and wild turkey hunting draws lots of folks into the field, so some facilities might be expected to be crowded.

Lastly, and sadly, there was once an individual who posted on ExPo under the name "roverrocks". He was a Land Rover aficionado from Colorado but grew up in the Sandhills. If they can be found, some of his trip reports from the 2014 and prior time frame are excellent sources of motivation and encouragement to get out there and explore the Sandhills. The "sadly" part is that Roverrocks died in 2015 or early 2016.

Foy
 
I'm not sure how close you will get to this, but we drove Spearfish Canyon Hwy (#ALT14) in Western south Dakota a couple years back, and it was simply a beautiful drive.
 
Foy said:
. . . My Verizon coverage was fair along NE-2 and in Crawford, Alliance, and Valentine, but nil elsewhere in the Sandhills.
. . .
One planning thought: I don't know exactly when upland bird season is out in the Sandhills, but I'd find out before planning a trip requiring use of campgrounds. I understand the grouse, pheasant, and wild turkey hunting draws lots of folks into the field, so some facilities might be expected to be crowded.

. . . some of his trip reports from the 2014 and prior time frame are excellent sources of motivation and encouragement to get out there and explore the Sandhills.
Thank you so much for the detailed post. If I find the area interesting this won't be my last trip there.

The lack of cell coverage will enable me to try out my newest technological toy: a YAGI cell antenna. Always love a challenge.

Unfortunately, just about everything is open hunting for archery and antelope, elk, turkey, duck and grouse are open for firearms while I am going through. I'll just have to time my visit during mid-week and move on if crowded.

takesiteasy, thanks for finding these for me.

trikebubble said:
I'm not sure how close you will get to this, but we drove Spearfish Canyon Hwy (#ALT14) in Western south Dakota a couple years back, and it was simply a beautiful drive.
I will be driving US 14 from Minnesota to The Black Hills on my way out to Wyoming and then ALT 14 through the Bighorns. I agree it is a beautiful drive (the loop through the Black Hills and the route through the Bighorns).

jim
 
Thanks Machinebuilder. Unfortunately, with a beagle riding shotgun I cannot leave him alone in the truck for extended periods of time. So that adventure will have to wait for another trip.

jim
 
JaSAn said:
Thanks Machinebuilder. Unfortunately, with a beagle riding shotgun I cannot leave him alone in the truck for extended periods of time. So that adventure will have to wait for another trip.

jim
I understand. I was probably there about 5 hours and that’s because I rushed a lot of it
 

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