You can always use the fans to raise the camper just reverse the flow.Cpt Davenport said:
I always use the fan to lower the top.It makes it easier and pulls all the liner in.
Frank
roof lifting helper shocks thingys
- Thread starter The Saints
- Start date
I always use the fan to lower the top.It makes it easier and pulls all the liner in.
Frank
I have found that with with one fan blowing in that there is nowhere near enough air flow to raise the top YMMVCasa Escarlata Robles Too said:
Riverrunner
Senior Member
FWIW - I just completed installing the exterior lift struts. The FWC video made the install fairly simple. There are a few "pro tips" in there that are invaluable when doing this yourself. I ended up buying 40# suspa's from amazon. I bought brackets and stuff on amazon as well after reading this thread but returned all of the hardware after watching the FWC video. I contacted FWC and bought their hardware kit. The 40# seem too much as I have to pull the roof down from the outside. I'm hoping they might lighten up a little. I have plans for at least 200w solar panel but not sure when that will happen.
Here is a link to the FWC lift assist strut install video:
Here is a link to the FWC lift assist strut install video:
CPT Davenport
Senior Member
Have you tried to lower the roof with the door closed and the fans (provided you have them) on sucking air out?Riverrunner said:
I always use the fan with the door closed to suck out the air and make roof lowering easier.Riverrunner said:
Frank
Riverrunner
Senior Member
Yes I did try that. It helps a little but I still have to push the front down from the outside. From the inside, I can only pull the front down so much and then I'm just pulling on the hinges. I might swap out the 40's in the front only as I don't seem to have as much of an issue with the rear since I can pull that down pretty easy.
When popping the top up, it's pretty much automatic once all the clamps are undone. Now to pop the top takes no effort at all. Note to self,..undo fronts last and make sure the slide lock on the rear is unlocked.
When popping the top up, it's pretty much automatic once all the clamps are undone. Now to pop the top takes no effort at all. Note to self,..undo fronts last and make sure the slide lock on the rear is unlocked.
craig333
Riley's Human
Or just add more sfuff on the roof. Solar panels etc. Then it'll come down 
57Pan
Senior Member
I had the same experience as Riverrunner with my 40 lb struts. Could barely get it down in the front so I took my front struts off until I added a 175 watt solar panel on top toward the front and reinstalled my front struts. Now it is well balanced and works great.
We use our camper a lot. In over ten years of use, I have just installed the third set of gas springs on the camper. This averages to a five year life span.
I was down at All Terrain Campers yesterday. Marty offered this advice. Every couple of months (or at least every time you treat the sideliner with 303), with the roof up, put some WD40 on a folded paper towel and clean and lubricate the rod part of the spring. Do not spray WD40 on the sideliner. Dust and dirt on the rod is what wears out the seals in the piston.
I was down at All Terrain Campers yesterday. Marty offered this advice. Every couple of months (or at least every time you treat the sideliner with 303), with the roof up, put some WD40 on a folded paper towel and clean and lubricate the rod part of the spring. Do not spray WD40 on the sideliner. Dust and dirt on the rod is what wears out the seals in the piston.
pvstoy
Senior Member
Great information, thanks for passing it on!ski3pin said:
craig333
Riley's Human
Interesting. i've never yet had to replace any of mine.
Thanks for that info Monte.
I try to wipe the rods after every trip helps to keep them clean.
Frank
I try to wipe the rods after every trip helps to keep them clean.
Frank
I use Silcone spray or white lithium grease. Way easier to get the top down/up with well lubricated shock thingies. At the same time, I installed a 10" long kitchen cabinet handle to the ceiling lift boards for the purpose of pulling down the top. Doubles as a place to hang a towel, triples as a place to bang your head. YMMV.
MountainSufi
Senior Member
- Joined
- Oct 15, 2018
- Messages
- 126
I have extra weight on my top: A solar panel in the middle & 2 Maxtrax Extreme recovery boards in the rear. I use two 40 lb lifts in the front & a 60 lb, 40 lb combo in the back. Because of that weight, the back comes down so fast I push down a seat back so I can't get pinned.
A large screen door handle gives rarely needed help with the bang board, & of course the fan makes life easier.
The modified Onstage crank up speaker pole (now available as just a pole) is indispensable.
As usual, Vic's suggestion of silicone spray or white lithium grease is genius.
A large screen door handle gives rarely needed help with the bang board, & of course the fan makes life easier.
The modified Onstage crank up speaker pole (now available as just a pole) is indispensable.
As usual, Vic's suggestion of silicone spray or white lithium grease is genius.
pvstoy
Senior Member
FWC is not answering phone calls live today, so far.Riverrunner said:
So you can buy just the hardware from them? Cost?
They do not show it on their webpage.
Thanks, Patrick
pvstoy
Senior Member
Got a replay from email reasonable quick from Kelly Taylor.
"The front and rear mounting hardware is $50, plus tax and shipping. Shipping could be around $12.
If you need further assistance, please contact me at my number below.
Regards,"
"The front and rear mounting hardware is $50, plus tax and shipping. Shipping could be around $12.
If you need further assistance, please contact me at my number below.
Regards,"
As for pulling the top down, I installed a 10" long elegant bathroom cabinet handle on our "push" boards to pull down from the inside. Also doubles as a towel rack.
pvstoy
Senior Member
Brenda emailed today and I expect that $250 includes the 4 lift struts. Since I did not see this on the webpage for purchase, passing this on If somebody was interested in the cost.pvstoy said:
Hi Patrick,
The exterior gas lift assist kit is $250.00 and the cost to ship would be about $35.00. If you would like to order please send me your address and I would be happy to give you a call.
Best regards,
pvstoy
Senior Member
Follow up with my friends 2003 FWC Hawk.
They purchased the hardware from FWC. You need to buy your own sealant.
I had four - 20 pound struts I gave them.
Watched the YouTube showing the install from FWC and made it super easy to install the hardware.
Tuesday went to Reno and installed the struts on the 2003 FWC Hawk. Above the back door it is a skinny gap but the small washer fit fine. The large inside washer I grinded a edge down to have better clearance to the lift panel hinge. Did not have to move any latches, just a few trim screws for the upper hardware.
They have nothing on the roof, so the 20 pounders seem just about right.
I did have two 40 pounders and put them on the front to test and the roof would not come down. It would be good to try 30 pounders to see if it would improve but not spending money for a test. If any one in the Reno area wanted to trade two 30 lbs for two 40 lbs I would be game.
I think this is a game changer for my elderly friends to get the top up and down. They have been double teaming it and struggling. They have considered selling the FWC and moving to something easier. Maybe the lift struts can extend their traveling and camping experience. I'm glad I talked them to do it and was able to volunteer my services.
Patrick
They purchased the hardware from FWC. You need to buy your own sealant.
I had four - 20 pound struts I gave them.
Watched the YouTube showing the install from FWC and made it super easy to install the hardware.
Tuesday went to Reno and installed the struts on the 2003 FWC Hawk. Above the back door it is a skinny gap but the small washer fit fine. The large inside washer I grinded a edge down to have better clearance to the lift panel hinge. Did not have to move any latches, just a few trim screws for the upper hardware.
They have nothing on the roof, so the 20 pounders seem just about right.
I did have two 40 pounders and put them on the front to test and the roof would not come down. It would be good to try 30 pounders to see if it would improve but not spending money for a test. If any one in the Reno area wanted to trade two 30 lbs for two 40 lbs I would be game.
I think this is a game changer for my elderly friends to get the top up and down. They have been double teaming it and struggling. They have considered selling the FWC and moving to something easier. Maybe the lift struts can extend their traveling and camping experience. I'm glad I talked them to do it and was able to volunteer my services.
Patrick
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