Roof planning questions.

[Squatch]

Does anyone have a good pic of their Eagle roof with 2 vents and the rack tracks installed?

Does 4WC run wires through the framing as conduit in any spots or do they just drill through where they need to cross a frame member?

I'm in the early stages of planning out roof racks and solar panels. I don't want to put a screw through a wire I didn't know was there.

I'm looking at options for my racks. One of the problems with the track system is it breaks up the open space on the roof limiting where you can place panels. The other is that I'm highly invested in racks and have lots of parts. But most of my stuff is Thule. I also have several sets of artificial rain gutter mounts and racks for rain gutter trucks including very wide bars. So I'm exploring ways to utilize the stuff I have. It wouldn't be the 1st time I've through bolted a rack to a roof of a vehicle. on a roof this long I'd want at least 3 if not 4 crossbars to spead the stress to the roof. The arch of the roof seems to closely mirror the gunnel curve of my canoes so that part is nice.

Normal load would probably be just my 12' 45# solo canoe.


Ocassionally 2 solos, small yaks, or my 17' tandem. I doubt there would ever be 2 tandems on the camper.

I've been reading up on solar. Most of the links in the solar thread and much rereading of the Handy Bob stuff. I'm concerned about placing panels where they get the most exposure when driving with a canoe on the roof. Here in the east we often camp and wheel in shade or part shade. We just don't have the open treeless space that you folks out west have. So it seems that overkill on panels may be in order to a point.

I don't think I'll use anything on an inverter. Long term plans do call for an Engle or similar fridge and I have a furnace and lights.

I like the idea of using the combo of the Trimetric TM2030-rv and SC2030. It seems like a good bang for the buck. Either that or maybe something like this to start.
http://www.amazon.com/RENOGY%C2%AE-Boat-Solar-Kit-200W/dp/B00JW3IZUS/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1426871811&sr=8-6&keywords=flexible+solar+panel

or maybe even this. mounting 2 panels on the roof and 1 made up as a portable for when needed.
http://www.amazon.com/RENOGY%C2%AE-Boat-Solar-Kit-300W/dp/B00JW3KQCI/ref=pd_sim_sbs_lg_7?ie=UTF8&refRID=0MED859GJKZM0Q61Y1HW

Add a couple of Watts up meters. And/or upgrade to the Trimetric stuff down the road.

Or should I just go for the Renology panels and the Trimetric combo from the get go.

I've made my living doing low voltage wiring for many years so the cabling part doesn't bother me. Even if I run all new stuff.

It would be great if someone would identify us as a market and make long skinny 100 watt flexable panels that would fit betwen the edge of the camper roof and rack mounts, vents. 100 watts down each side and no problems leaving the canoe or whatever on the racks in the center and shading a panel.

At this point I have no shore power and don't intend to install it. I do have a seperator that will get hooked up.

I'm also thinking of going with 2 AGMs. One on each side bed mounted in front of the wheel wells to keep them out of the camper and better balance weight in the center of the truck.

I'm just thinking aloud and rambling at this point so if if you have feedback on any of this throw it at me. I'm in info sponge mode right now.

Sorry for the long post.

 

[Happyjax]

I love a good ramble Squatch
There is a member Yukon who put solar panels in a frame under the cabover which he could slide out to access the sun when not moving. That might be an option along with a portable which you could use when camped. There was also a mod where one of the members (who I cannot find of course) put a solar panel on a rack on the roof of the truck that also served as a wind screen. That mod is awesome. Just a couple thoughts

 

[Squatch]

I saw both of those. I like the slide out idea but I really like the weight and profile of bendable panels. Trying to keep weight down. Especially up high. I'm sure a slide out could be made for those as well.

 

[Stalking Light]

Here's a diagram I got from Adventure Trailers (who I bought my Eagle from):

View attachment 20140909075625572 (1).pdf

 

[Beach]

If you carry stuff on the racks most of the time you might want to think about a portable panel. Even if you do a roof mount, the portable will supplement when the roof unit is shaded. I have a 55 watt roof panel and the output falls off quickly when shaded or the sun is at a low angle. Just from minimal shading the voltage can drop enough to reduce/stop charging. Having said that, I do like my set up overall as I have never had to charge a dead house battery or run out of power.

 

[Squatch]

Here's a diagram I got from Adventure Trailers (who I bought my Eagle from):

20140909075625572 (1).pdf

Thanks so much!

 

[100acrehuphalump]

I just had this conversation a minute ago. I'd love to do the Renogy flex panels 100W for $200, but I already have two 100W rigid panels and I might rig a set up for the Yakima racks on top of my Hawk much like BillHarr did. I'm trying to save some $$$ for my upcoming trip, and this seems like a good option for now. Carrying the kayak(s) or a canoe.....Today I modified my M416 by removing the roof top tent and heavy steel rack it sat on. I'm gonna adapt some racks to the trailer lid , and carry the boats and any extra gear. Tomorrow I'm running tests on mileage and so on.

 

[veryactivelife]

Roof tracks are a universal fit, so you can use the Thule Podium foot on the Yakima track. On the FWC roof I would only use tracks and my understanding is that FWC screws directly into the framework.

A few things to consider regarding solar.

Heat will cause a lot of energy loss
http://www.civicsolar.com/resource/how-heat-affects-solar-panel-efficiency
http://www.solar-facts-and-advice.com/solar-panel-temperature.html

Consider mounting rigid panel to your tracks like this install Rocky Mountain FWC did. This will keep the panel cooler.
https://www.facebook.com/rockymountainfourwheelcampers/photos/pcb.844792845571033/844792062237778/?type=1&theater

Shading will cause more loss than most people realize.
http://www.renewableenergyworld.com/rea/news/article/2009/02/shade-happens-54551

 

[DonC]

Here's my Fleet with 2 vents, Yakima tracks and 300 watts of flexible Renogy panels. I was originally going to install solar on racks using the Yakima tracks, but the weight was significant compared to the 12 lbs for 300 watts of flexible panels. Plus the tracks are still fully usable with the solar panels flush against the roof, but you won't get much solar when you have something on the roof.

 

[brianjwilson]

I have a tacoma, with a fleet on order.
I'm planning on running 2 agm batteries as well but with a different setup. Im going to buy 3 matching batteries. Two mounted under the hood with a blue sea automatic charge relay (isolator). The aux battery under hood will be connected to the agm in the back of the camper. Like you, I want to move weight forward more. After starting the engine, a time period will lapse where only the start battery is charged, them the aux bank will be connected. When I shut off the truck and the voltage drops, the aux bank disconnects from the start bank. And gets charged by solar. No different than what you're talking about but I figured I'd keep it under the hood instead.

I'm planning on something like donc's solar setup. Originally I was hoping to have the roof vents centered but Fwc won't do that any longer. With the Yakima tracks installed I could have run 100 uni solar or global solar panels down each side of the vents. So if I carried a single boat I would only block one panel.

In fact I hoped that I could run two of the renology 100w panels on the right side of the vents, between the track (again to leave the other side for carrying items, but I don't think they will fit there.

 

[DonC]

Here's a post with all the drama of my install. By page 8 I finally have it figured out and the install was actually pretty easy. I provide pictures, parts and pretty complete install instructions. Early in the thread is my info for installing a Trimetric which I see as essential to monitor your system - another thing I learned from this forum.
http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/9804-my-solar-project/?hl=%20solar%20%20donc

I highly recommend the Renogy panels and many on this forum are starting to use these. I don't see any reason to use the heavier panels.

 

[brianjwilson]

Here's a post with all the drama of my install. By page 8 I finally have it figured out and the install was actually pretty easy. I provide pictures, parts and pretty complete install instructions. Early in the thread is my info for installing a Trimetric which I see as essential to monitor your system - another thing I learned from this forum.
http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/9804-my-solar-project/?hl= solar donc

I highly recommend the Renogy panels and many on this forum are starting to use these. I don't see any reason to use the heavier panels.

I just bookmarked that again (or on a different device maybe). At $200 per panel I don't see why not do 3 vs 2. I think it is worth the security of parking in the shade, rainy days, or charging computers, cameras, rc batteries etc.

 

[RC Pilot Jim]

We love our Renology too. Lightweight don't even know its up there. Plenty of room for a second panel if needed.

 

[Squatch]

Thanks for the pics and info folks. I've been reading and studying my camper. At this point pretty sure I'm not going to use the Yakima tracks. Several reasons. Expense, held on with sheet metal screws. I've pulled a couple of rack systems out of a vehicle roof that were mounted this way in the past. I have a few Yakima flat roof artificial rain gutter mounts. I think I will mount those at the roof edge where a cross bar intersects the side rail. on top not on the sides. That way I can drill clean through the rail and bolt these on with backing plates inside. Minimal damage to the headliner. Just bolt holes. This will allow me to use existing rain gutter racks that I already have.

It will also leave the roof space open. That way I could mount 2 or 3 Renology panels down the passinger side and actually carry a boat offset to the drivers side a bit if need be. This should leave the panels pretty exposed even when hauling a boat.

I'm still a ways from solar at this point but that's the way I'm leaning right now.

These mounts.