Running cable from truck battery to camper

[Stereo]

I am planning to connect my 2003 Tacoma truck battery to my Northstar pop-up truck-camper house battery to run my fridge and charge the house battery while driving. Other than summer and fall, the camper is in storage so I'll install quick connects (and an SCR and fuses) between the truck and the camper.

Since I use the truck to haul stuff that could potentially damage a cable, I'm worried about terminating the 4 gauge cable inside the truck bed, even though that's the most sensible place for it. I'm wondering if there is a next-best place to locate the cable end from the truck. Ideas? Where did you locate your cable?

If the truck bed really is the best place, I'll create some kind of box, or use some PVC pipe, to protect the wiring.

If I do end up drilling through my truck bed to pass through the wire, is there any product I should apply to the cutout so the metal doesn't rust? (I'll definitely put in a grommet to protect the wiring.)

Are there any sections of a truck bed that I should not drill through, structurally speaking?

When screwing to metal panels such as the firewall or to the truck bed, are there special screws that resist pulling out? I would think vibration would cause a regular self-tapping screw to back out over time.

Thank you for your advice.

 

[ETAV8R]

One of the only benefits of having a 2nd gen with the composite bed is the ability to put an outlet in various places. There are cubbies above the wheel wells which is where I have my female plug which I connect with the male on the camper. This doesn't do you any good since you have a 1st gen. Hopefully someone has a solution for you.

 

[ntsqd]

Sounds like you're thinking to run only the power cable? Run both power and ground from battery to battery. The frame has enough resistance at higher amperages to cause problems with charging the camper battery. I put the VSR in the camper because I use the truck battery power for other things like powering the On-Board Air system. Remember to fuse or breaker at both ends because there is a battery at both ends.

How about placing an Anderson SB connector somewhere near the rear of the bed. Then bring the camper's cable out to the rear. Keeps the connector and cables out of the bed, but does make the run length significantly longer.

If you do drill a hole I'd get some of the touch-up paint from Toyota and apply it to the hole.

Either way I'd use the SB series of connectors. Example: Anderson Power Products SB120 SB Series 120 Amp Connector Kit
I bolted the truck side half of the connector to the sidewall of the bed. Our camper is full time, but we needed a disconnect for when the camper comes out for whatever. Didn't have to drill for the cables as the bed had a route to snake them thru.

 

[Stereo]

Thank you, ntsqd. I didn't want to get into the details of the install, but I do appreciate your reminders. I am running both the power and ground cables from battery to battery with a fuse at both ends and an Anderson SB connector between. I have read that the location of the VSR is flexible.

I did consider running the cable to the rear of the truck, but I was concerned about the length of the run since I want it to be charging the house battery while driving, so I hope to keep it up front (and have ordered the corresponding amount of cable), though I like the convenience aspect of your idea.

 

[ntsqd]

Length of run to the rear of the bed is a significant concern. With 4 ga. I'd expect that you'd still be within the 3% Voltage Drop criteria that I used in sizing the cable, but since you've ordered a shorter length I'll guess you're going to have to drill a hole. Can you take advantage of the sidewall topography and put the hole in a place where the cables can have a straight shot at the connector without that hole needing to be in the floor of the bed?

 

[Stereo]

ntsq - Can you please clarify? Are you saying that, though length of run can be of significance, given the size of my wire (4 gauge), running to the back of my camper should not be an issue?

I like your idea about coming up between the panels. I actually hadn't realized there were two panels separated be a space.

 

[ntsqd]

Exactly, with 4 gauge cable I think that the additional length of a run to the rear of the bed would still be within the 3% max voltage drop criteria that I used in sizing the cables on our truck. FWIW I too brought the cables up near the front of the bed and I ended up with 6 ga. cables after using this page to size them: http://www.ancorproducts.com/en/resources/three-percent-voltage-drop

FWIW I used one of these: https://www.westmarine.com/buy/blue-sea-systems--dual-powerpost-cable-connectors--P009_273_004_505?recordNum=48

On the truck's frame under the front edge of the bed. I did this so that I could tap into the power for other stuff. The OBA system draws it's power here, and eventually there will be heavy gauge power clear to the rear bumper should it become needed.