Sanity check: my simple wiring diagram

[UmkaAndHawk]

Anybody see any issues with the attached?
Basically, I added a second battery in parallel. They're the same battery, but one is a year newer. There's no diodes between them, or anything. Anybody think there's an issue with that? I didn't think so, but in case I'm being incredibly dumb!

This is in a Hawk Shell, so the isolator is the blue-sea diode that comes with.

Batteries are 8A24M AGM "Intimidator"

Charger is IOTA DLS-45

6 gauge wire.

The AC coming in is basically just a standard 110 receptacle which splits into two. One is occupied with the charger, the other is available for use when plugged in. I've never really been to a camp site with shore power and don't know if they typically have standard 110 hook ups or not, but it works at home at least, and without an adapter.

 

[Vic Harder]

Anybody see any issues with the attached?
Basically, I added a second battery in parallel. They're the same battery, but one is a year newer. There's no diodes between them, or anything. Anybody think there's an issue with that? I didn't think so, but in case I'm being incredibly dumb!

This is in a Hawk Shell, so the isolator is the blue-sea diode that comes with.

Batteries are 8A24M AGM "Intimidator"

Charger is IOTA DLS-45

6 gauge wire.

The AC coming in is basically just a standard 110 receptacle which splits into two. One is occupied with the charger, the other is available for use when plugged in. I've never really been to a camp site with shore power and don't know if they typically have standard 110 hook ups or not, but it works at home at least, and without an adapter.

I think the idea is sound, but, you might want to think about adding an AC breaker before connecting it to anything else inside the camper.

 

[Kolockum]

Fuse at the truck battery and another one at the camper battery.

I would also put a 120v breaker in.

 

[BFH4N]

It will be better if you include fuses or circuit breakers.

A scenario that I have been warned about for parallel-battery systems involves a failure where one of the batteries develops a shorted cell. If this happens, It essentially becomes a 10 Volt battery connected to a 12 volt battery. A big current could build up as the good battery tries to "charge" the bad one, and maybe melt something or start a fire. I have no idea how likely this is, but the solution is a fuse or circuit breaker at each battery, maybe 50 Amps. You can get a simple fuse holder that mounts right on the positive battery terminal.

 

[UmkaAndHawk]

Fuse between the batteries sounds practical! Thanks for this idea. Do you think something like this will do?

https://smile.amazon.com/InstallGear-Gauge-Power-Wire-Holder/dp/B071ZZZK5W/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=8%2Bgauge%2Bwire%2Binline%2Bfuse&qid=1612988809&s=automotive&sr=1-4&th=1

I left out that, indeed, during the installation of the FWC not the truck, there *is* indeed a fuse between in at and the camper.

Now, about that AC fuse...is this because the incoming AC might draw too much power at some point?

Thank you folks! Much obliged for your comments and help!

 

[Kolockum]

For either application (between house batteries or truck and house battery) that would work. I prefer inline maxi fuses since they are easy to get out and don't require unscrewing, but that is a personal preference.

For the ends of the truck battery to camper battery I would recommend a resettable breaker. This way you can disconnect power quickly and easily if the need arises.

As for the AC I believe it is just good electrical practice. I know a lot of the hookups are 20-30 amps and our campers do not need nearly that much unless you have AC. Circuit breakers would prevent a overload.

This may also work. https://www.amazon.com/26020008-6-Shockshield-Protected-Tri-Cord-3-Outlets/dp/B000HHQIK2/ref=asc_df_B000HHQIK2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=194019628201&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=161984402401580111&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033421&hvtargid=pla-313052272940&psc=1

 

[Vic Harder]

Fuse between the batteries sounds practical! Thanks for this idea. Do you think something like this will do?

https://smile.amazon.com/InstallGear-Gauge-Power-Wire-Holder/dp/B071ZZZK5W/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=8%2Bgauge%2Bwire%2Binline%2Bfuse&qid=1612988809&s=automotive&sr=1-4&th=1

I left out that, indeed, during the installation of the FWC not the truck, there *is* indeed a fuse between in at and the camper.

Now, about that AC fuse...is this because the incoming AC might draw too much power at some point?

Thank you folks! Much obliged for your comments and help!

AC breaker is so that you don't get killed by bad wiring!

 

[PaulT]

I used these mounted directly to the battery terminals.
https://www.bluesea.com/products/5191/MRBF_Terminal_Fuse_Block_-_30_to_300A

Paul

 

[BFH4N]

Yes, that is what I was refering to. I think I got the Buss version which is probably the same, but cheaper than Bluesea.

 

[CougarCouple]

I think fuses protect the wire from melt down which maybe could save your life.
Recently saw a wire get pinched in a light fixture, while working was prying a plate off. 277v there was a loud pop and flash of light. Breaker didn’t trip. Upon inspecting we found the nick on the section of wire to a momentary switch small section of conductor literally vaporized in the plastic sheath one side of the damaged wire was still hot.

CANT EMPHASIZE ENOUGH USE A METER TO VERIFY POWER!!!

 

[Jon R]

A thermal or magnetically tripped circuit breaker should be installed right where the shore power enters the camper to prevent excessive current from flowing through your concealed camper wiring and damaging it or causing a fire due to an excessive load or due to a hot short to the neutral or ground. For shock protection, that circuit breaker should be a GFCI. However, I doubt the campers are built that way.

 

[ntsqd]

Recall that there is a battery at both ends of the connection between the camper and the truck, there needs to be a fuse or breaker (I prefer the latter) at both ends of that connection. I prefer breakers with a manual reset so that I can easily disconnect one or both batteries, and I put the breaker in the camper between the battery/ies and everything else - camper included.