Sealant for mounting things to side of camper (Awning, etc)

[wicked1]

I'm going through a 2015, silver spur color camper I recently purchased.
There is corrosion around everything.. Not bad. Spreads 1/2" to an inch. Not deep.. The finish pealed, but once clean, doesn't seem lower than the surrounding metal. Maybe I'll post pics..

But anyway, as I repair all this, what sealant should I use when I re-attach everything to the camper?

All the existing sealant appears to be FWC factory, as it all matches. It's soft.. Like, I can dig away at it w/ my fingernail. It's not rubbery like silicone. But it has also failed, else I don't think I'd have this bad corrosion.

Could anyone let me know what I should be using? I've seen suggestions for marine sealant. Marine adhesive. Regular silicone caulk, etc.. Not sure what would be best.

Thanks a lot!

 

[Vic Harder]

Generally, NOT silicone. It is very hard to clean off and once used nothing else will stick. It is also generally not UV resistant and thus not suitable for the outside of your camper.

Because you are talking about the SIDE of your camper, something like Dicor Lap sealant is not great, as it is designed to flow, and works great on the roof of your camper. I've had great luck with Butyl Rubber tape. I have also used 3m 4200 or 5200 if you want GLUE in addition to sealant. You might consider a UV tolerant Polyurethane caulk.

 

[wicked1]

Thanks a lot! Couple questions.. Butyl tape. Do you try to cover the entire back of whatever you are attaching, or just a ring around the edge? And then, seal around that, or is that not necessary?

And about the 3m adhesive/sealant, is that also a similar problem to silicone, in that once used, it might be difficult to repair in the future?

From my initial poking around, it seems like whatever FWC used, I'll be able to scrape off w/ a putty knife. But then not sure what it will take to get a clean surface. Guess I'll find out soon enough..

 

[craig333]

I use silicone but only inside the screw holes. Anything exposed to the sun get 3M 4000 or better.Something like an exhaust fan gets the butlyl tape plus.

 

[Vic Harder]

Thanks a lot! Couple questions.. Butyl tape. Do you try to cover the entire back of whatever you are attaching, or just a ring around the edge? And then, seal around that, or is that not necessary?

And about the 3m adhesive/sealant, is that also a similar problem to silicone, in that once used, it might be difficult to repair in the future?

From my initial poking around, it seems like whatever FWC used, I'll be able to scrape off w/ a putty knife. But then not sure what it will take to get a clean surface. Guess I'll find out soon enough..

I put the tape around the screw hole, and on the screw itself before driving it in. No need to coat the whole surface.

The 3m stuff can be very hard to get off, but it doesn't contaminate the surface like silicone does. The 3m5200 is considered "permanent" but it does come off.

The other concern is the corrosion. Shouldn't happen. Some folks have notice galvanic corrosion... that happens near/around electrical connections. How about some pictures of the corrosion you are talking about?

 

[wicked1]

How about some pictures of the corrosion you are talking about?

1 is around some lights. Not sure if they're factory or not. All four corners of the camper have one, and are the same. It's darker in that photo because I have peeled the loose paint off the surface.

2 is around my awning mounts, which do appear to be factory. (I've got the invoice here, and it was purchased from FWC as an option) It's the same around the factory fold down roof access steps.

3 is the only place it's happening which does not appear to be related to a screw or other dissimilar metal. So, not sure why it's happening here on the fridge vent.


Thanks for any advice!

 

[PaulT]

There is some resemblance to salt corrosion in your photos. I don’t know where your camper lives or has lived but moist salt air, driving on the beach, or driving on winter salted roads can result in salt getting through imperfections in the paint. Simply rinsing or even washing won’t remove it after it gets into the metal. Over time corrosion can result.

There are treatments that can help a lot at your local marine supply or hardware store that caters to salt water boaters. We fish in the Pacific or in bays and always wash the boat and the rear of the truck and camper using either Salt Terminator or Salt-Away. Each has an applicator that you fill with the concentrate and spray down the metal parts after washing or rinsing. The material is left on the metal to neutralize the salt over time. We, also, run it through the outboard cooling system after running in salt water. It really helps with corrosion but is an ongoing challenge.

Good luck.
Paul

 

[wicked1]

Thanks Paul. I bought it in Oregon. I know it spent time at the ocean. All along the west coast, Baja, etc. Also spent time in the mountains, which I'm not sure if they salt there. I brought it back to the midwest where we don't have oceans, but definitely salt on the roads (though I doubt I'll have it out much in the winter). I'd go w/ salty ocean air/water being the issue for me. I don't think I'll find those salt treatments locally, but I will definitely order some if it will help. Then what do you think my plan of attack should be? Should I let the salt neutralizing solutions sit on it for a while before I try repairing and re-painting, just to be sure those nasty ions are out of the metal? Or, if I'm going to sand and paint anyway, just go for it, as that will remove any issues?

 

[PaulT]

You should do the salt neutralizing first as the salt ions are inside the metal. I would contact tech support at Salt-Away or Salt Terminator to get their recommendation. Painting over the sanded spots will leave the salt in place to cause issues later.

Oregon just started some test projects using road salt In the Portland area so it is likely due to the ocean visits in the past.

Paul