Self Tapping ,Thru Bolt or Tapped

[Beach]

I'm asking about experience people have had installing strut brackets. As the title suggests, I'm considering all 3 methods. While thru bolting is probably the strongest, is it necessary? Are any of you having issues with self tapping not saying tight or pulling out? 3rd option I'm considering, is to drill and tap the camper for the bracket screws(not ball studs) but if the plate isn't at least 3/16" thick, that option isn't viable. What say ye.

 

[MarkBC]

I used self-tapping stainless steel screws to mount the strut brackets on my Hawk several years ago. They still seem fine...though I haven't examined them closely.

 

[Advmoto18]

I used self tapping stainless steel screws as well on the struct brackets.

Be sure to use a quality UV resistant sealant on the screw threads an a dab on the hole before placing the bracket against the camper.

I don't recall the sealant I used on my camper, but, a product recommended by a member here.

 

[norcalhawk]

I did the same as Mark, used self-tapping stainless steel (~ 3/4"-1") screws to attach strut brackets. I also dapped silicone around the holes prior to inserting the screws. Brackets still seem secure after six years.
(2012 Hawk)

 

[Zirdu]

What are "strut brackets" and exactly where are you installing them?

 

[Beach]

They are the mounts for the roof lifter struts. Look up the thread " roof lifter thingy" Not sure but I believe that's the name.

 

[DavidGraves]

Zirdu

I think what folks mean by strut brackets is..... the ball mount itself is part of a stainless plate with 2-3 holes.

Fastening this plate to the camper wall allows for a little bedding compound under the plate.

For a while the factory was using a simple post shaped ball mount although I am unsure what is current.

Sorry, I don't know how to send an image to the forum.

PM me your email address and I can probably send the image from my phone.

David Graves

 

[CougarCouple]

Hi Beach
Ours came with the self tapping sheet metal screws. I did find one had come our, and went up one size no problems so far. There is a tool out there which installs a nut in a blind hole. This is what I would do if there was a problem with screws coming out. Start with the sheet metal screws first, and if need be you have a backup plan.

I would not use a nut and bolt to install buy the hand tool a correct size insert, a Commercial Fastner company should be able to help provide what you need
This is a pretty good product. http://topindustrial.com/products/sealants/

Russ

 

[DesertDave]

There was a 'recall' on the first few months of the exterior strut installs, right after Four Wheel began offering them as a factory option, late 2013, early 2014.

I chose to do the repair myself, the factory sent me what I needed to do the job.

The original installation used an insert like in the YouTube posted by Cougar Couple, with the ball stud screwing into the insert. The fix enhanced that by providing a plate that overlaid the nut with two additional lag screws, long ones as I recall, at further reinforced the mounting location. The plate would spread the load over a greater area, which seems to have done the trick.

I have never looked a newer factory install to see what, if anything, is done differently from the factory.

Hope this helps.

 

[ntsqd]

The tube wall thickness is thin enough that I don't think threading it will give a lot of strength without employing more than two screws. Thru bolting is a leak path that I'm not interested in, and without getting into a complicated install you're more likely to crush the tube slightly than gain anything. Not really a fan of lag screws & bolts, but this is a reasonable use for them.

I use 3M 5200 to seal stuff like this. Shoot, if the screws fail the 5200 will nearly carry the load by itself. I hear all sorts of warnings about how you can't remove it etc. That's the point, I don't want to remove it. If I have to do so for some odd and rare reason a Harbor Fright heat gun works wonders.

 

[Advmoto18]

Problem with using regular silicone, it will break down very quickly under UV (sun) light.

Using a UV (marine) resistant type sealant will last many seasons.

Don't use a sealant with adhesive properties. You might need to remove the fasteners and you really don't want to be applying heat along the roof line to remove them.

 

[ntsqd]

I doubt removing a screw bedded in 5200 will be much of a problem. It would be more about removing some sort of flange with a lot of surface area that was bedded in 520 that will need heat.

 

[CougarCouple]

ntsqd when the thru bolt method is used and there is a concern on crushing tubing. A larger hole is used on one side of the tubing and a sleeve is inserted. That sleeve prevents the tubing from being crushed.
Sorry could not find an example but I’ve seen it used in instructions to attach after market parts to automotive frames.
But I agree with you that it would lead to water intrusion, not to mention how difficult it would be to get to the inside of the frame.

Russ

 

[ntsqd]

I've used and even suggested that technique in the past in various situations. I just didn't know if we were ready to get to that technical of a solution yet. It's a tricky solution because if the sleeve is long and not welded to the wall it projects from then you've really only captured one wall of the tube, which I don't see as being much superior to simply threading the near tube wall. If the sleeve is carefully cut to be exactly flush on the far side you haven't really gained anything over having it long as no load can be transferred from mere contact with an unrestrained tube wall. If it can be welded into place, to either both walls or the far tube wall, then you've captured both walls of the tube and the load is transferred to both sides of the tube. Same if the sleeve can be inserted to fit between the inner faces of both tube walls such that tightening the screw or bolt pulls both walls tight against the ends of the sleeve.