Shell Electrical System

[anonymous]

I was looking at the FWC Manual:

http://www.fourwh.com/New_2017_Four_Wheel_Popup_Campers_Owners_Manual.pdf


If I were to order a shell, with a 12V battery system, will it come will all the wiring detailed in this manual (page 55)?

Kill switch, fuse panel, shore power plug, IOTA power converter, 120V circuit breaker, etc.?

I know much of this wouldn't be in use on a shell, but my hope is that if the electrical was in place just like a fully loaded version, and I would be able to easily add my own components when I build my own camper. For example - water pump, ARB fridge, etc. Electrical wiring is not my strong suit.

 

[Dragon240]

My Hawk shell did NOT come with any 120v [shorepower availability]. When I asked if I could get in shell was told that as no 120v equip [fridge etc] came with shell no 120v accessability was avail. Sorry. JM2¢ Kate

 

[TrapperMike]

I have a 2016 Hawk Shell with lots of options, but no shore power or charging came was available with it. I ended up installing my own shore power outlet, 120 circuit breaker, and Iota smart charger with IQ4.

 

[anonymous]

That makes sense thanks.

So disregarding the 120V, if you get the battery option on the shell, does it come with a 12V fuse panel and kill switch like shown in the manual?

Also, is it setup so that you plug the camper into the truck, so that the alternator will charge the battery while the truck engine is running?

Thanks

 

[Squatch]

On my 2012 Eagle shell the fuse box has spaces but no fuses for many of the camper options such as fans in the vents, rear flood lights ect. The camper is also wired for such and solar. Wires are hidden in the walls and ceiling. It also came with the battery separator device(and outside wiring) to connect the camper to the truck battery, interior lights. But no provisions for shore power.

 

[Josh41]

My 2017 Fleet shell has a cutoff switch, and a battery isolater from truck, not the Iota and no shore power. The description on the shells tells you what they have and what options are available. .

 

[Taku]

Order an ATC.

 

[anonymous]

Order an ATC.

Why, for the 120V setup on a shell?

 

[Argonaut20]

You can talk to ATC about what you want and they can tell you whether they can/will do it. Marty and Jeff do good custom work and, being a smaller shop, are more open to your ideas on a build. Lots of members of WTW have had them build exactly what they wanted in a camper and are fans of ATC as a result.

 

[RC Pilot Jim]

Shell vs Full Camper​

A auto mobile electronics shop (sells and installs alarm systems) can install whatever you can't do yourself. I used one to install the Trimetric battery monitor.

Not getting all the items that make up a complete electrical system is not bad as most shell purchasers only put in what they need for their application.

A fuse box is the item your referring to that you would "plug" your additional 12 volt devices into.into. Shells do not come with that item.

Our electrical system in the Eagle came with installed aux 12 volt battery in a marine box wired to the Sure Power. The pre-wired solar wires terminated in the battery compartment coiled and secured against the back wall. Click on the link under my signature and review the section on electrical. The two 12 volt ports were wired in.

As the shell evolved we eventually added a "battery tender" type charger/maintainer (110 volt to 12 volt") installed "in-line" fuses for the three systems: compressor fridge power connection (10 amp), solar controller positive to battery(10 amp), 10 amp fuse for house lights and 12 volt plugs.

For "shore power" We added a 10 foot outside 110 volt extension cord between the front of the camper into the storage space between camper and side of the bed. we hang it from a camper bolt through a wire tie. Access is through hatch from camper. 150 watt Renogy solar panel on roof charges the battery when out camping. The charger - maintainer is just used the night before our camping trip while camper is in the carport. Alternator charges battery when driving.

That is all we need.

The reason many carpenters buy shells - They have the expertise to build a better camper than what the factory builds. Review "Bill's Hawk Build" to see how Bill did it

When we bought our shell we were able to swap in existing cabinets then we just needed to add a counter, FWC sink, basic water system. Eventually in the third rendition we replaced the basket storage drawers above the aux battery compartment with 2 wood drawers finishing it.

Doing this as a project even with limited homeowner skills can be learned through tutorials on "You-Tube".

If you don't want to do it yourself purchase the full camper.

 

[Adventurebound]

If this helps. Here is a photo of the electrical panel in my 2017 Hawk Shell. I would assume the wiring harness in the shell model and the "loaded" models are different as the location of the panel is not in the same place.

 

[Adventurebound]

One more photo showing the location, this is the drivers side above the wheel well. I have one spot left in the panel, had I ordered the flood lights though the panel would have been maxed out.

 

[anonymous]

Wow thanks Adventurebound that's a big help. Theres alot going on for just a shell. My hopes of a mostly empty fuse panel and plug n play accessories are dashed! I suppose you could add a larger fuse panel pretty easy who knows. It would be interesting to compare to a loaded version.

 

[WestCoast]

Wow thanks Adventurebound that's a big help. Theres alot going on for just a shell. My hopes of a mostly empty fuse panel and plug n play accessories are dashed! I suppose you could add a larger fuse panel pretty easy who knows. It would be interesting to compare to a loaded version.

If ordering a new shell, you can simply ask them to upgrade to a Blue Sea fuse box. It’s what I did. It made adding solar, trimetric, iota charger and other electric loads very simple and organized in that tight space.

 

[anonymous]

If ordering a new shell, you can simply ask them to upgrade to a Blue Sea fuse box. It’s what I did. It made adding solar, trimetric, iota charger and other electric loads very simple and organized in that tight space.

That's exactly what I was hoping for, glad to hear I can do that. I wonder if they are open to running larger gauge wire for solar as well? This is probably gonna sound really dumb I can't wrap my head around how the solar wire gets from the roof to the body (spans the soft top) and is still able to collapse... Where does the slack go?

 

[Vic Harder]

That's exactly what I was hoping for, glad to hear I can do that. I wonder if they are open to running larger gauge wire for solar as well? This is probably gonna sound really dumb I can't wrap my head around how the solar wire gets from the roof to the body (spans the soft top) and is still able to collapse... Where does the slack go?

Hyperspace. It tucks up with the fabric/panels. Too thick a wire, no tucking.

No need to upgrade the wire. As rando has pointed out elsewhere, if you have lots of watts of solar on the roof, hopefully it is connected in series and to a MPPT contoller. Low current * high voltage = low loss just like the power companies do it.

 

[WestCoast]

That's exactly what I was hoping for, glad to hear I can do that. I wonder if they are open to running larger gauge wire for solar as well? This is probably gonna sound really dumb I can't wrap my head around how the solar wire gets from the roof to the body (spans the soft top) and is still able to collapse... Where does the slack go?

I doubt they’d upgrade the gauge wire, never hurts to ask. The amount of voltage drop is quite small but it all adds up, that’s for sure. The solar wires are hidden behind the front lift panels on the camper. There is enough slack that it can expand to cabin height with the top up and simply bends back when it’s down. Probably another reason they won’t put larger gauge wire is it will be stiffer. Lots of good threads on wiring and charging here. Pretty simple, as long as you keep it that way.