Shunt wiring question

O

Outnabout

Senior Member
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Jan 31, 2015
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318
My batteries have two positive posts and two negative posts. Can I use the post without anything attached to them for the shunt? In the picture they are covered with a plastic cap. Thanks. IMG_7444.JPG
 
Typically a shunt has to be in the circuit. So it could be attached to that unused post, but then everything attached to the used post needs to be removed and attached to the other terminal on the shunt. Which means that the wire between the shunt and the battery needs to be big enough to carry the current from all of the existing wires.
 
ntsqd said:
Typically a shunt has to be in the circuit. So it could be attached to that unused post, but then everything attached to the used post needs to be removed and attached to the other terminal on the shunt. Which means that the wire between the shunt and the battery needs to be big enough to carry the current from all of the existing wires.
Click to expand...
So I think you are saying it would just be best to run the ground from the post with the ground attached and the little positive air from the shunt to the post already being used.
 
One of the shunt's big terminals should be connected to the battery's '-' terminal, either one.

The wires currently attached to the battery's '-' terminal, all of them, should be moved to the other big terminal on the shunt.

The shunt has to be between the battery '-' and every other wire. Only one wire should be connected to the battery '-' terminal, the one from one of the big terminals on the shunt.
 
ntsqd said:
One of the shunt's big terminals should be connected to the battery's '-' terminal, either one.

The wires currently attached to the battery's '-' terminal, all of them, should be moved to the other big terminal on the shunt.

The shunt has to be between the battery '-' and every other wire. Only one wire should be connected to the battery '-' terminal, the one from one of the big terminals on the shunt.
Click to expand...
Thanks for your replies. I feel thick. My batteries are in parallel. I was going to take the ground from the battery with the ground going to the ‘-‘ bus bar and put the shunt between it and the bus bar. My understanding is that the batteries wired in parallel look like one battery. I’m confused about moving both ‘-‘ wires to the shunt. I was using this diagram for reference (with the understanding that the two parallel batteries look like one)
 
Look at the batteries first. There will be a wire going from +ve to +ve of the two batteries, and at least one wire coming off of those two +ve battery posts feeding the fuse panel and other loads. Those can stay as is, or if you want to improve things, ALL the load wires (not the joining wire between the two batteries) should be attached to ONE of the batteries.

There will also be a wire going from the -ve to -ve of the two batteries, and at least one wire coming off (you mentioned one going to the -ve bus bar... are there others?) and providing grounds to the loads. ALL the negative wires (not the joining wire between the two batteries) should be attached to ONE of the -ve posts, and preferably the OTHER battery from the one that has all the +VE wires attached to it.

Consolidating all the wires on the opposite battery's respective -ve and +ve posts balances the load between the two batteries better. It is also visually a good way to keep track of things.

It should now we apparent that if you do as Thom suggests above, the BATT side of the shunt has to go on the post of the battery with all the negative wires on it. Put ALL of the wires that are now on that post (except the one joining it to the other battery) on the LOAD side of the shunt.

And you your original question, yes, you can use the "extra" posts... each of those is physically attached inside the case of the battery to its neighboring post.

I hope that helps.
 
Vic Harder said:
Look at the batteries first. There will be a wire going from +ve to +ve of the two batteries, and at least one wire coming off of those two +ve battery posts feeding the fuse panel and other loads. Those can stay as is, or if you want to improve things, ALL the load wires (not the joining wire between the two batteries) should be attached to ONE of the batteries.

There will also be a wire going from the -ve to -ve of the two batteries, and at least one wire coming off (you mentioned one going to the -ve bus bar... are there others?) and providing grounds to the loads. ALL the negative wires (not the joining wire between the two batteries) should be attached to ONE of the -ve posts, and preferably the OTHER battery from the one that has all the +VE wires attached to it.

Consolidating all the wires on the opposite battery's respective -ve and +ve posts balances the load between the two batteries better. It is also visually a good way to keep track of things.

It should now we apparent that if you do as Thom suggests above, the BATT side of the shunt has to go on the post of the battery with all the negative wires on it. Put ALL of the wires that are now on that post (except the one joining it to the other battery) on the LOAD side of the shunt.

And you your original question, yes, you can use the "extra" posts... each of those is physically attached inside the case of the battery to its neighboring post.

I hope that helps.
Click to expand...
Thanks. Getting clearer.
 
Vic Harder said:
Look at the batteries first. There will be a wire going from +ve to +ve of the two batteries, and at least one wire coming off of those two +ve battery posts feeding the fuse panel and other loads. Those can stay as is, or if you want to improve things, ALL the load wires (not the joining wire between the two batteries) should be attached to ONE of the batteries.

There will also be a wire going from the -ve to -ve of the two batteries, and at least one wire coming off (you mentioned one going to the -ve bus bar... are there others?) and providing grounds to the loads. ALL the negative wires (not the joining wire between the two batteries) should be attached to ONE of the -ve posts, and preferably the OTHER battery from the one that has all the +VE wires attached to it.

Consolidating all the wires on the opposite battery's respective -ve and +ve posts balances the load between the two batteries better. It is also visually a good way to keep track of things.

It should now we apparent that if you do as Thom suggests above, the BATT side of the shunt has to go on the post of the battery with all the negative wires on it. Put ALL of the wires that are now on that post (except the one joining it to the other battery) on the LOAD side of the shunt.

And you your original question, yes, you can use the "extra" posts... each of those is physically attached inside the case of the battery to its neighboring post.

I hope that helps.
Click to expand...
Ok. So I have read and reread and think I understand.

Here goes- one wire from negative post on battery to BATT side of shunt. If I move all negatives to one battery as you suggest, all those wires would be shifted from negative battery terminal to the LOAD side of shunt. Essentially the shunt is a “bridge” between the battery and the ground bar.

Thanks again. Hope my interpretation is correct and understandable.
 
Vic Harder said:
Look at the batteries first. There will be a wire going from +ve to +ve of the two batteries, and at least one wire coming off of those two +ve battery posts feeding the fuse panel and other loads. Those can stay as is, or if you want to improve things, ALL the load wires (not the joining wire between the two batteries) should be attached to ONE of the batteries.

There will also be a wire going from the -ve to -ve of the two batteries, and at least one wire coming off (you mentioned one going to the -ve bus bar... are there others?) and providing grounds to the loads. ALL the negative wires (not the joining wire between the two batteries) should be attached to ONE of the -ve posts, and preferably the OTHER battery from the one that has all the +VE wires attached to it.

Consolidating all the wires on the opposite battery's respective -ve and +ve posts balances the load between the two batteries better. It is also visually a good way to keep track of things.

It should now we apparent that if you do as Thom suggests above, the BATT side of the shunt has to go on the post of the battery with all the negative wires on it. Put ALL of the wires that are now on that post (except the one joining it to the other battery) on the LOAD side of the shunt.

And you your original question, yes, you can use the "extra" posts... each of those is physically attached inside the case of the battery to its neighboring post.

I hope that helps.
Click to expand...
One more question: does it matter which positive post I it the little red wire on from the shunt?
 
Vic Harder said:
not really.
Click to expand...
Ok. Because I overthink things I’m not sure of here is a picture of my current setup. I will leave the positive wires where they are, move the two negative wires I have marked in yellow and labeled, one on left from solar controller and one on right to ground bar to the LOAD side of shunt. Those are the only negative wires to the batteries (not counting the ones connecting the batteries). This setup would put all positive wires on right side battery and all negative wires on left side battery. BATT side of shunt
would be connected to left battery.


Now to decide on Victron smart shunt or Victron 712, or are there any other recommendations?

Thanks in advance. I love the support here and learning about these systems.
IMG_7454.JPG
 
Outnabout,

For what it is worth, I appreciate the ability to monitor my battery charging on my cell phone while driving using the bluetooth feature of the Victron 712.
 
dscobell said:
Outnabout,

For what it is worth, I appreciate the ability to monitor my battery charging on my cell phone while driving using the bluetooth feature of the Victron 712.
Click to expand...
Yes. I read the manual for the Victron and it seems like a much more capable alternative. The set up also seems a bit simpler and cleaner. In the video, it appeared that the battery had to be discharged to begin setting up the monitor, Victron does not have this step and seems to be a smarter device.
 
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