So I think you are saying it would just be best to run the ground from the post with the ground attached and the little positive air from the shunt to the post already being used.ntsqd said:Typically a shunt has to be in the circuit. So it could be attached to that unused post, but then everything attached to the used post needs to be removed and attached to the other terminal on the shunt. Which means that the wire between the shunt and the battery needs to be big enough to carry the current from all of the existing wires.
Thanks for your replies. I feel thick. My batteries are in parallel. I was going to take the ground from the battery with the ground going to the ‘-‘ bus bar and put the shunt between it and the bus bar. My understanding is that the batteries wired in parallel look like one battery. I’m confused about moving both ‘-‘ wires to the shunt. I was using this diagram for reference (with the understanding that the two parallel batteries look like one)ntsqd said:One of the shunt's big terminals should be connected to the battery's '-' terminal, either one.
The wires currently attached to the battery's '-' terminal, all of them, should be moved to the other big terminal on the shunt.
The shunt has to be between the battery '-' and every other wire. Only one wire should be connected to the battery '-' terminal, the one from one of the big terminals on the shunt.
Thanks. Getting clearer.Vic Harder said:Look at the batteries first. There will be a wire going from +ve to +ve of the two batteries, and at least one wire coming off of those two +ve battery posts feeding the fuse panel and other loads. Those can stay as is, or if you want to improve things, ALL the load wires (not the joining wire between the two batteries) should be attached to ONE of the batteries.
There will also be a wire going from the -ve to -ve of the two batteries, and at least one wire coming off (you mentioned one going to the -ve bus bar... are there others?) and providing grounds to the loads. ALL the negative wires (not the joining wire between the two batteries) should be attached to ONE of the -ve posts, and preferably the OTHER battery from the one that has all the +VE wires attached to it.
Consolidating all the wires on the opposite battery's respective -ve and +ve posts balances the load between the two batteries better. It is also visually a good way to keep track of things.
It should now we apparent that if you do as Thom suggests above, the BATT side of the shunt has to go on the post of the battery with all the negative wires on it. Put ALL of the wires that are now on that post (except the one joining it to the other battery) on the LOAD side of the shunt.
And you your original question, yes, you can use the "extra" posts... each of those is physically attached inside the case of the battery to its neighboring post.
I hope that helps.
Ok. So I have read and reread and think I understand.Vic Harder said:Look at the batteries first. There will be a wire going from +ve to +ve of the two batteries, and at least one wire coming off of those two +ve battery posts feeding the fuse panel and other loads. Those can stay as is, or if you want to improve things, ALL the load wires (not the joining wire between the two batteries) should be attached to ONE of the batteries.
There will also be a wire going from the -ve to -ve of the two batteries, and at least one wire coming off (you mentioned one going to the -ve bus bar... are there others?) and providing grounds to the loads. ALL the negative wires (not the joining wire between the two batteries) should be attached to ONE of the -ve posts, and preferably the OTHER battery from the one that has all the +VE wires attached to it.
Consolidating all the wires on the opposite battery's respective -ve and +ve posts balances the load between the two batteries better. It is also visually a good way to keep track of things.
It should now we apparent that if you do as Thom suggests above, the BATT side of the shunt has to go on the post of the battery with all the negative wires on it. Put ALL of the wires that are now on that post (except the one joining it to the other battery) on the LOAD side of the shunt.
And you your original question, yes, you can use the "extra" posts... each of those is physically attached inside the case of the battery to its neighboring post.
I hope that helps.
First need to get the shunt. Thanks for the advice.Vic Harder said:Sounds correct. A picture once you are done could help confirm.
One more question: does it matter which positive post I it the little red wire on from the shunt?Vic Harder said:Look at the batteries first. There will be a wire going from +ve to +ve of the two batteries, and at least one wire coming off of those two +ve battery posts feeding the fuse panel and other loads. Those can stay as is, or if you want to improve things, ALL the load wires (not the joining wire between the two batteries) should be attached to ONE of the batteries.
There will also be a wire going from the -ve to -ve of the two batteries, and at least one wire coming off (you mentioned one going to the -ve bus bar... are there others?) and providing grounds to the loads. ALL the negative wires (not the joining wire between the two batteries) should be attached to ONE of the -ve posts, and preferably the OTHER battery from the one that has all the +VE wires attached to it.
Consolidating all the wires on the opposite battery's respective -ve and +ve posts balances the load between the two batteries better. It is also visually a good way to keep track of things.
It should now we apparent that if you do as Thom suggests above, the BATT side of the shunt has to go on the post of the battery with all the negative wires on it. Put ALL of the wires that are now on that post (except the one joining it to the other battery) on the LOAD side of the shunt.
And you your original question, yes, you can use the "extra" posts... each of those is physically attached inside the case of the battery to its neighboring post.
I hope that helps.
Ok. Because I overthink things I’m not sure of here is a picture of my current setup. I will leave the positive wires where they are, move the two negative wires I have marked in yellow and labeled, one on left from solar controller and one on right to ground bar to the LOAD side of shunt. Those are the only negative wires to the batteries (not counting the ones connecting the batteries). This setup would put all positive wires on right side battery and all negative wires on left side battery. BATT side of shuntVic Harder said:not really.
Thanks. Yes, I like the display as well. Pricey. I will check out the review.Vic Harder said:If you like physical displays (i do!) the Victron BMV 712 is nice... have not used the smart shunt, but that looks great.
Will Prowse has a test of a much less expensive knock off here - $200 Victron Solar Battery Monitor? Try this $30 Chinese one instead! Great for Off-grid Solar - YouTube
Is the set up for the Victron similar to the knock off in the video? Not the physical hookup but the programming.Vic Harder said:If you like physical displays (i do!) the Victron BMV 712 is nice... have not used the smart shunt, but that looks great.
Will Prowse has a test of a much less expensive knock off here - $200 Victron Solar Battery Monitor? Try this $30 Chinese one instead! Great for Off-grid Solar - YouTube
Yes. I read the manual for the Victron and it seems like a much more capable alternative. The set up also seems a bit simpler and cleaner. In the video, it appeared that the battery had to be discharged to begin setting up the monitor, Victron does not have this step and seems to be a smarter device.dscobell said:Outnabout,
For what it is worth, I appreciate the ability to monitor my battery charging on my cell phone while driving using the bluetooth feature of the Victron 712.
Victron's programming is more sophisticated, and it has that bluetooth which I use A LOT. The price diff is huge. That said, if I was wanting to save money I would go Victron, with the smart shunt.Outnabout said:Is the set up for the Victron similar to the knock off in the video? Not the physical hookup but the programming.