Solar connector mount

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XJINTX

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I searched but can't locate howebver I'm a dummy :( I have a little pull behind trailer that I need solar to charge battery for it's refrige. I am looking for a solar connector like on the back of my Hawk. I will mount the solar controller inside the refrige storage area. Run the wires to the connector. That way I can mount the panel outside but keep the storage box closed to outside climate.I know I could just put a hole but want a connector.

Not sure if I'm making sense but looking online. Any help appreciated.
 
The Zamp solar roof or sidewall socket is what you need. https://www.zampsolar.com/rv-solar-kits/solar-ready-rv-kit-srrv/
There are many distributors.

If, however, your solar panel has MC4 connectors, using the Zamp will require using MC4 to SAE 2 pin flat adapter. You could save some expense and hassle by using a Renogy cable entry housing instead. https://www.renogy.com/renogy-cable-entry-housing/
The MC4 connectors do use a plastic tool to facillitate unplugging.

Either will work satisfactorily. Choose which works better for you as you have a blank slate now.

Paul
 

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Nice looking trailer. I keep thinking about one, but haven't yet decided to pull the trigger. Ruger in Colorado and the Morris Mule are two that caught my attention. I will have to check out the Trekmate....

Thanks!
 
I use it on longer time out trips with the FWC too. Great for extra gear and not have to pack and unpack every night. We added the refrige setup on trailer just for when I tent camp. Refrige compartment is stand alone and removeable when not needed.. I like tent camping with the OZ but Susan has outgrown ;) So my Dog and I head out when we can. Checkout the Trekmate he's a good guy and great to work with!!! Tell him I sent ya :) http://www.buytrekmate.com
 
Dang now I have to make a decision. I wonder if there is anyplace I can actually see products or I have to buy online? Think I may drive down to Camper World or some place like that...
 
Howdy

For these type of solar entry access panel.....waht is the actual transition to the wire inside celing of a FWC ?

Does one need to make a soldier or crimped transition of outer and inner wires ?

Will that fit under the access panel ?

Thanks

David Graves
 
I bought my Go-Power entry plate with a two wire pigtail lead, MC-4 connectors on one end and bare on the other.

The solar wires are stiff and do not bend 90 degrees, they require a fairly large radius bend so the hole under the connector plate should be offset from center towards the sloped front. Oversize the hole in the camper roof so the wires can enter at a bit of an angle and then bend the other direction (sort of a lazy "S" shape from plate entry to where they connect to camper wiring.

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In this picture you see the 3M 4100 sealant around the edges (I also put it underneath the edges all around before screwing the box to the roof). The roof box is mounted under one of the solar panels.


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I used high quality crimp butt connectors with shrink tubing to join the camper and solar wires.

I stuffed the wires back up into the ceiling here is a picture of the solar wires near the hole I drilled before I connected to them. You can see where they run above the styrofoam. Also you can see the locator hole in the aluminum plate under the hole I drilled.

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Everything fit up in the ceiling above the styrofoam.

Here is a picture of an FWC roof frame (actually several leaning against a wall) showing an example of the aluminum plate with hole in it for solar wires. I think this is from a newer camper than my 2007. The front of the roof is up (top of picture) with driver side to the right

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I also installed a small junction box which is large enough to screw the Solar Plate on the roof into - thus sandwiching the roof between the solar entry plate and the junction box for added strength for the Solar entry box. This was probably unnecessary because the 3M 4100 holds very well. I had to search an electronic supply store (like Fry' s in LA) to find a box the right size.


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The cover on the junction box gave me a surface to press against when I patched (glued) the vinyl headliner). The horizontal lift board covered this all up. (thankfully).



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The green surface is a thin piece of foam insulation I had and I used it to fill up the space.


I hope this is of some help.

Regards,

Craig
 
Gosh Craig

Can you stop by my house and do it for me ??

THANKS very much for your detailed info and photos.....it is very hard to communicate clearly and in english what fingers can do.

I have the original FWC solar plug on the roof and have not decided how I am gonna connect my two 120 flex panels.

Something makes me want to only mount one up on the roof and meanwhile keep one portable for seeking sun.....for example, propped on the windsheild of the truck.

Here in Oregon that is almost the ideal inclination to get max solar exposure.

David Graves

Nehalem, Or
 
David,

I like the idea of a deployable solar panel. The hassle is dealing with a loose coil of solar wire which is pretty stiff stuff.

I plan to add a Zamp SAE connector (like the one FWC uses) on the side of my camper under the couch where my batteries are located so I can attach a deployable suitcase type panel. I figure I need about 20 to 30 feet of wire in case I park under shade and impact the roof solar panels. That length of wire should allow me to get the panel in the sun and out of the way.

I will probably replace my Victron 75/15 Bluesolar controller with a Victron 100/30 SmartSolar controller when I do that.

P.S. You can see that my work was not so neat and clean so I suspect no one would want me doing this for them on their expensive camper. Even if they did I would not want the responsibility. ;-)

Hope you get your solar all sorted out and working the way you want.

Regards,

Craig
 
Hi Craig,

We are thinking of purchasing a deployable solar panel as well. This would be our only solar setup. Our present battery configuration lasts five days without recharge under our normal use. We're really just looking to extend our boondocking capabilities a couple of more days. What size and which portable setup would you recommend? Thanks in advance for any light you may be able to provide (so to speak).

Hans and Nancy
 
Hank Mayhem said:
Hi Craig,

We are thinking of purchasing a deployable solar panel as well. This would be our only solar setup. Our present battery configuration lasts five days without recharge under our normal use. We're really just looking to extend our boondocking capabilities a couple of more days. What size and which portable setup would you recommend? Thanks in advance for any light you may be able to provide (so to speak).

Hans and Nancy
Click to expand...
How many AH is your current battery bank? The reason for asking is to get some handle on what you are using now. If you have 1000AH vs 75AH, for example, it would change our recommendations! ;-)
 
We have 2 group 24 Costco Interstate deep cycle batteries wired in parallel. I believe that they provide 160 amp hours in total.
 
And how do you know that this configuration "lasts five days"? Are you measuring voltage, State of Charge or ??

I imagine that a portable solar panel in the 100-200w range would be suitable, with still lots of variables to consider, like shade, angle of the sun, etc.
 
If you are getting five days from 160 Ah capacity without recharge, then Vic's suggestion should easily extend your time by a couple of days, especially with a charge controller in the portable package and setting up the panels any time you are in camp. Leaving them on your roof all the time tilted towards the south should optimize your solar collection with minimum attention required.

However, you should, at least measure your voltage occasionally to be sure you are not discharging the batteries so much that you shorten their life.

I'm guessing you have a propane fridge or ice chest.
Paul
 
Hello Vic and Paul,

I guess one could say that our 5 day range comes from field testing. We do run our fridge on propane and try to minimize our electrical use otherwise. Thanks for the input. We'll look for a kit in the 100 to 200w range and bring along a tester.

Hans and Nancy
 
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