rilcombs

Advanced Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2015
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57
Location
Portland, OR
Hi All,

I picked up a 2014 Raven in February that does not have the Yakima Tracks installed on the roof. I just bought a Renogy 100W panel along with some Yakima Tracks and planned to have Rack Attack install the tracks, to which the panel would be mounted (the wiring is already there).

After dropping the truck off at Rack Attack today, they told me they didn't feel comfortable installing the tracks. This is due to the new smooth roof not allowing them to clearly see where the tracks need to be installed.

I guess my question is, what would you do?
a) try to install the tracks yourself and move forward?
b) attach the panel to the roof without the tracks?
c) not put anything on the roof at all (I'm not sure where the panel would go)?

Any input or advice is very much appreciated!

Thanks!
 
Call FWC service and talk through the details with them. I suspect they would share measurement info, plus where the solar wiring is terminated.
 
northshorehenry - I am not. I'll reach out to the guys in Tigard. I was really hoping to avoid the steep install costs, but it's looking like I may have to go that route.

WS - Will do. I know where the wiring is terminated, the main issue is the drilling into the rooftop. Rack Attack just wasn't up for it. Time for Plan B!

Thanks!
 
Depends on individual skill level, but I'd go for it. Seems a stud finder might locate those aluminum frame members.

I've seen panels attached with or without racks. Individual preference I think.

Rooftop is obviously best location for a solar panel, unless you like the portable option which might mean getting a different panel.

Good luck with the project!
 
rilcombs said:
northshorehenry - I am not. I'll reach out to the guys in Tigard. I was really hoping to avoid the steep install costs, but it's looking like I may have to go that route.

WS - Will do. I know where the wiring is terminated, the main issue is the drilling into the rooftop. Rack Attack just wasn't up for it. Time for Plan B!

Thanks!

Yup...Jeff in Tigard will tell you. Honest and knowledgeable. I have those tracks but they are on a Hawk...so measurements would be meaningless. FWC would be a must make phone call before drilling any holes in the camper.

Good luck and please post how it goes.

Phil
 
Just as a suggestion, take a look at your roof from the outside and the inside. You want to put the mounting screws for the tracks in the center of the frame tubing running the length of the roof. Where are they? You can see on the inside. The faxwood strips holding the headliner are stapled into them. I bet with careful feeling from the top you can find the hard edges of the tubing by pressing on the thin roof sheeting. They will match the measurement taken from the inside.
 
AK, Wallowa, and ski3 - Thank you! I now have a pretty good idea about how to go about this thing. Going to talk to Jeff to get his opinion as well. It doesn't sound very difficult, but man I would hate to screw this up!
 
INSIDE CAMPER look through fabric ...you can see the aluminum. Use a measuring tape to wall (add a 1/4") from the outside measure over. I asked FWC and they told me the amount but I checked.Stud finder also worked. I installed my Yakima channels and racks. It was nerve wracking due to "it is the roof" but in the end you will see if you do mess up...it is small... a bit of silicone and all is fine.
Mine have been on a couple years with no leak.
 
rilcombs said:
northshorehenry - I am not. I'll reach out to the guys in Tigard. I was really hoping to avoid the steep install costs, but it's looking like I may have to go that route.

WS - Will do. I know where the wiring is terminated, the main issue is the drilling into the rooftop. Rack Attack just wasn't up for it. Time for Plan B!

Thanks!
If you're in the Portland area, I might be able to assist if you decide to do it yourself. Give me a shout...
 
Most customers install their own Yakima Tracks on the camper roof will drill up, from the inside of the camper first (using a very small drill bit as a pilot hole). Just 2 very small holes.

Measuring the length of the tracks first (first hole at the beginning of the tracks & the last hole at the end of your tracks). The frame members are 1 1/2" tall, plus roof skin thickness and batton strips inside the camper.

Once you have the first and last pilot holes, you can lay the Yakima tracks down on the camper roof and you will have your straight line that the tracks will attach too.

I think you will find that stopping by the dealer in Tigard might be very helpful, as you can get some first hand advice in person.

When FWC installs Yakima Tracks, we will warranty it against leaks. When the customer starts poking holes in their camper roof, FWC can't always warranty the roof against leaks, not knowing how the tracks were installed. You can ask the dealer about their warranty if they install the tracks for you.

Hope this helps.


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Stan - that is amazingly helpful. Thanks so much! You guys really do go above and beyond most manufacturers, so that's really cool.

I talked to Jeff again, and we're going to meet up and make a decision. Thanks all!
 
I have loved having the tracks on my camper. I use them all the time. They now hold my solar panel and maxx trax. And I can carry by canoe around too. I think you will love the addition.
 
Rilcombs, thanks for posting your question, as it provided information I was needing as well.

I'd also be interested in what size and type of screws FWC uses to fasten these tracks down with, and how they insure a watertight seal, if anyone happens to know?

Hope you don't mind me asking on your thread, it just seemed like some additional useful information to gather while this topic is being covered. Stan's information was spot on. Thanks!


Sent from my iPad using Wander The West
 
On my FWC tracks, they laid down a strip of butyl tape along where the tracks go, then sealed each screw penetration with Sikaflex, and then sealed around the perimeter of the track/roof joint with silicone sealant. In my opinion, the silicone is mostly cosmetic, and the most critical seal is the Sikaflex at each screw penetration.

Since the center of the track is recessed, where the screws go, water will sit there until it evaporates or is blown out by driving. Any place where a screw isn't properly sealed is a direct water path into the tubing of your camper roof, and then into the interior via any penetration from the inside, such as a light fixture screw or a staple holding the batten, or any other penetration.

This is an area where a thorough installation job is critical.
 
Hey Poky, I'm also interested in the length/type of screw (if it's different than those provided by Yakima). Good question!
 
PokyBro,

To wrap this up using input from Stan and the Service Dept, along with DesertDave:

1) drill up from the inside through the wood batton strip, a very very small pilot hole so you can get the first & last starter holes, and then just used wood filler to fill the hole.

2) lay down a strip of butyl tape along where the tracks go, then seal each screw penetration with Sikaflex, and then seal around the perimeter of the track/roof joint with silicone sealant.

3) the type of screw used is #8 1inch Pan Head, Phillips, Black.
 
rilcombs said:
PokyBro,

To wrap this up using input from Stan and the Service Dept, along with DesertDave:

3) the type of screw used is #8 1inch Pan Head, Phillips, Black.
Rilcombs,

Thanks a bunch for sharing. That last line what was what I was needing. Wanted to clarify they aren't using Yakima plus nuts, and didn't want to go with too large of screw if not needed ( ex, #10 ), for strength. I appreciate it bud!


Sent from my iPad using Wander The West
 
Now that we have the tracks figured out, can I ask how you are mounting the panels? I have a new-to-me Hawk with the Yakima track and rack, and am looking at the Renogy 100W system.
 

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