Solar Questions

[longhorn1]

I have been communicating with Terry at FWC. I would prefer not to have holes throught the roof of the camper to fasten solar panels. Hallmark has an option to use solar mats which are adhered to the roof with a special adhesive. I'm not sure what brand, but I did find the web site for Global Solar which manufacturers solar mats for RV's. The only hole would be for the wires. Terry said that FWC doesn't have a relationship with Global Solar, but they are exploring Zamp Solar. Zamp Solar didn't show solar mats but they did show a line of portable solar panels ranging from 85W to 200W. This is intreging since you could have the panel on the ground angled properly to the sun. The only draw-back would be with someone stealing the unit when you were off hiking. It would have to be cable locked to something.

I'm not handy with building things, so my plan was to have all or most of the work done at the FWC factory. FWC doesn't appear to be too flexible with options. That isn't really a big issue, but there are a couple of things that I want.

I would appreciate hearing from those that had solar factory installed by FWC, those that added later (that wouldn't be my choice), and those that have used solar mats or the portable solar panels.

Thanks, Happy Holidays.

 

[Kispiox]

I have aHawk with factory 95W factory install solar. I also have a fair amount of marine solar experience.

Based on my experience solar panels are much more efficient if air is allowed to circulate on the back side. Having said that, technology rapidly evolves and that rule may not still apply.

I use my set up in high latitude Pacific Northwest cloudy rainy conditions and very happy with my capacity. In fact, absolutely amazed with both new LED and solar efficiency. FWC has a good installation process and is reported to stand by their product. I am equally amazed at the efficiency of modern adhesives and sealants.

No leaks and plenty of capacity with security of factory install and warranty. I recommend you go thr ought he math of your specific electrical draw vs storage charging capacity and duration. It is simple and you will be better informed. A quick trip to Google or a book store and you will find the methodology. I reiterate,.. Very simple.

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

I have a Zamp 150 watt panel on my Airstream. It does a good job of keeping the batteries up, with great recovery time, no complaints about the technology. That said, I think they are over priced. Granted, they use Boesch panels, but I'm of the opinion that other panels give great service as well. There was a recent thread on "Solar in a Bag" that will help you make a cost comparison on portable systems. I'd look at AM Solar and Solar Blvd, too.

I am picking up my Granby today, and we went with their package. It too is a bit pricey compared to doing it myself, but I went with the convenience (and safety) of not having to drill holes in a brand new roof, or to take up rack space on the Yakima.

 

[goodtimes]

I know that FWC has installed Global Solar panels on campers before.

The first one was the camper bought by Jonathan & Roseann at Conserventures (Jonathan is a member here). Their experience is what pushed me to Global Solar for my own panel (self installed on a 20 year old camper). The Global Solar stuff is pricy, but I've been completely satisfied with mine.

The second factory install that I know of was a mutual friend of the Hanson's & myself, out in Colorado. Last I heard, Tony was happy with his as well.

Of course, none of that means that there is a "relationship" between FWC & Global Solar - only that FWC has installed GS panels in the past.

FWIW, installing their panels is *really* easy. Just be sure that you get it positioined correctly, once it's down, it's down for good.

 

[Oryguntroutbum]

I'm in the same situation as you Longhorn. I'm getting ready to order and the solar set up is something I want. I really like the idea of the flexible mats like Global has for a couple reasons. First, I like the fact that they mount without screws and create no extra wind drag. I also like that they can be mounted far forward and therefore would not be blocked as frequently by items on the roof rack. Lastly, they, appear to be much lighter than a standard panel. I have no idea what the flexible panels cost but I'm guessing FWC won't let me do what I want, which is have everything but the panel installed at the factory.

 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

I I have no idea what the flexible panels cost but I'm guessing FWC won't let me do what I want, which is have everything but the panel installed at the factory.

Have the camper set up with the plug on the roof for the future solar and place your own panels.If you have some building experience you should be able to take care of it yourself.
Frank

 

[Oryguntroutbum]

Have the camper set up with the plug on the roof for the future solar and place your own panels.If you have some building experience you should be able to take care of it yourself.
Frank

I thought of that but I'm guessing to get the controller installed with a dual battery they would charge me the same as they would if I just bought the panel as well. I will have to check and confirm. Anyone know the prices of the flexible panels?

 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

I thought of that but I'm guessing to get the controller installed with a dual battery they would charge me the same as they would if I just bought the panel as well. I will have to check and confirm. Anyone know the prices of the flexible panels?

Not to beat this to death,but install it all yourself.I installed my own solar unit,as a lot of owners have, even after I had a wire run to the front of the camper,which I didn't use.
Frank

 

[Oryguntroutbum]

Not to beat this to death,but install it all yourself.I installed my own solar unit,as a lot of owners have, even after I had a wire run to the front of the camper,which I didn't use.
Frank

I am pretty handy, but for some reason wiring has never been my strong point. Maybe I shouldn't be so intimidated. OR maybe I should just buy the parts and offer BEER in exchange for help.

 

[ski3pin]

<snip. but install it all yourself.I installed my own solar unit,as a lot of owners have..............................

There is much information on the forum here on installations. Have the factory run wire - and up the awg size they want to run - and install a roof plug and maybe a plug on the side if you want a moveable panel. That's the hard part. Then do your homework on power needs - amp use spreadsheet - and let your research dictate the components you want to install. Best of luck with whatever your decisions are. Safe travels.

and a friendly FYI, there are non drinkers among us.

 

[ntsqd]

Most solar panels are starting to come with MC4 connector already installed. Can cut them off, but that usually voids the panel's warranty. The down-side to the MC4 connector is that 10 ga. wire is the default wire size and I've yet to find MC4 components so that I can "roll my own", and the wire used is not very flexible as it is intended to be used in stationary installs (think stranded house wire). Can thank the NEC for this boondoggle.

In my mind 10 ga. is the smallest wire gauge that should be considered for voltage drop reasons - not for ampacity reasons.

 

[RC Pilot Jim]

Longhorn - I echo everyone on installing two solar plugs one on the roof and one on the rear wall. FWC has many years experience installing wiring and the panels for a leak-free trouble proof system,

For now we use an external 60 watt from Solar Blvd. It was very easy to self install the charge controller, add a ten amp fuse, between the controller and battery in the compartment FWC located the aux battery. I kept the MC4 connectors on the panel and purchased an extra set of connectors than stepped the wire gauge down from 10 gauge to 12 gauge. (FWC uses 12 gauge in the camper). I have 50 feet of 12-2 cable rolled on to a wheel. Checking the output with a multi-meter I recorded no loss in voltage dropping down a size. (measuring before charge controller)

I am also interested in the mat product for the roof because as I age, eventually I plan to switch to a roof mount.

 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

For now we use an external 60 watt from Solar Blvd. It was very easy to self install the charge controller, add a ten amp fuse, between the controller and battery

I have a question on fuse location.My system is self installed and I have the fuse on the positive lead from panel to controller is that OK? It has done it's job when I had a short in the wiring earlier in Dec.the fuse "blew".So is this OK?
Frank

 

[billharr]

I have one on the roof of my hawk. Adding on one plug on each side so I can plug solar in a bag on the side closes to the sun.

Bill

 

[ntsqd]

I have a question on fuse location.My system is self installed and I have the fuse on the positive lead from panel to controller is that OK? It has done it's job when I had a short in the wiring earlier in Dec.the fuse "blew".So is this OK?
Frank

IMHO the fuse should be as close physically and electrically to the battery(ies) as is practical. What ever wire length there is between the battery and the fuse is unprotected, so the shorter that wire is the better.

 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

IMHO the fuse should be as close physically and electrically to the battery(ies) as is practical. What ever wire length there is between the battery and the fuse is unprotected, so the shorter that wire is the better.

Thanks,my fuse is right at the controller,but on plus wire to the input to the controller.
I think I will put another on the wire from the controller to the battery.
Thanks
Frank

 

[camper101]

I would appreciate hearing from those that had solar factory installed by FWC, those that added later (that wouldn't be my choice), and those that have used solar mats or the portable solar panels.

I did my own system, which I think turned out fine, but I would echo the suggestion to have FWC install a solar plug if you're in the buying process.

I got stuff online (Amazon and Solar Blvd) to make a portable setup. Got an extra long MC4 wire (they have some 8 guage on, but I went with 10 because it was easier - for me at least - to make the splice to ultimately connect to the charge controller that way). Just cut the MC4 wire in half and you've got what you need to make a quick-disconnect to the panel.

I keep the excess wire in the truck bed between the camper and the bed rails, and can reach in there to pull out what I need when I set it up. It takes just a few minutes if that as long as the panel isn't buried behind the rollover couch... I try to drill through the camper as little as possible, so the other end of the wire comes into the camper through a turnbuckle door under the couch. I have a trolling motor plug so I can unplug and keep the door closed when I'm not using solar (which is most of the time).

I also added some D-rings to the roof (along the side of the roof, using existing screws/holes that hold the roof together) so I can put the panel on top. That makes me more comfortable if I'm going to leave camp for a while and also gets more sun depending where you're parked. But I also made some legs that'll prop the panel up at whatever angle is necessary if I want to leave it on the ground and/or get a better angle. The D rings were not my idea - somebody smarter than me at FWC came up with it.

I can't drive with the panels on the roof, but they've been out for some heavy windstorms (there are also D-rings screwed onto the panel, and I attach the panel to the roof with paracord and clips that are easy to cinch down). If you used a beefier/fixed D ring you might be able to leave things there full time.

Regarding fuses, yes I have one between panel and charge controller, and also between battery and charge controller. I found this thread (scroll through a few pages) very helpful for planning: http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/77503-How-to-make-a-cheap-isolated-dual-battery-setup-for-50

 

[BFH4N]

Hey Camper101,

That link about "How to make a cheap battery isolator" was good (and fun).

He bought copper lugs, but I have always just made them. Here's how: Get copper (or brass) tubing that fits pretty well over your wire (just the conductors, not the insulation and this only works with stranded wire (obviously)). Strip the wire and put a piece of tubing over it, with the bare strands sticking out the end a little. Then smash about half of the tubing as flat as possible in a vise and/or with a hammer until the copper is tight around the strands and that part is flat. Then fill in the flattened end with solder -- you'll probably have to use a big iron or even a torch. Now you have a lug-like end on your wire. Round off the flattened end with a file or grinder and drill an appropriate-sized hole thru it. This makes a good high-current connection because the current doesn't have to flow thru the copper tubing -- the wire strands are right out there in the end where the bolt is. A possible drawback is that the flat part may be too thick or too wide.

I haven't decided yet whether to get a FWC camper for my 2007 Tacoma -- I'm still thinking about it. If (when?) I do, it will be front-dinette Fleet. Thinking about a possible solar collector, I came up with this plan: Have FWC install the connectors on both the roof and the back wall and have them install the short Yakima tracks on the roof (also the rear wall steps). I'd get a thin collector-- like Global Solar (although those may be too long to go crossways on the roof) -- and mount it on a thin piece of material like 1/4" plywood or aluminum sheet, with holes to mount it to the tracks. This would make it possible to take the collector down (if I could reach the corners) and prop it up on the ground when I park the camper in the shade. On the roof, the collector would plug right into the connector up there and on the ground it would use a home-made extension cord to the connector on the back of the camper. This isn't a perfectly-thought-out plan and, since I don't even have the camper yet, it's realy just a fantasy. But I wonder if anyone has done something like this?

Thanks...

- Bernard

 

[Bdold]

Longhorn- Not sure what you decided on how to mount your panel but, if you have a the extra lugage racks on there you can do this. It means you don't have to mount into the roof. It did create another issue for me though as the solar wiring was directly under the rear bar.

 

[Bdold]

Another view.