Speaker stand.

Squatch

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2014
Messages
1,281
Location
On the wrong side of the mountains!
I have the interior gas struts in my Eagle. After I installed the roof rack I upgraded them from 60lb to 80 lb struts. It helps but it's still a heave to hoist the roof. And I haven't installed my road shower yet. That's 5 gallons of water to add up there.

I've been thinking of adding outside struts as well. I've also considered a speaker stand. And or any combination of the above.

Last week one of my arthritic shoulders decided to give me fits again. They like to lock up from time to time without much warning.

So yesterday I decided I'd order a speaker stand. http://www.guitarcenter.com/On-Stage-Stands/SS8800B-Power-Crank-Up-Speaker-Stand-1274115029483.gc#productDetail

The site said in stock and ready to ship. Till I was 1/2 way through checking out anyway. Then it said back ordered till 9-29-17. So I aborted. In the process though I noticed you could ship to a store. I didn't realize there are 2 in the area. Not real close but doable. I called one of the stores and they said they had one left in stock.

I stopped in this am and they had one old demo stand left. Missing the crank. They looked for it to no avail. I asked about a discount and one guy looked at the other who said he'd take 15% off. Then the other guy said they were on clearance on the computer. Just over 1/2 price. So I bought it at that price!

If you are looking for one of these it might be worth calling some music stores.

To update what I have learned. It seems to work well with the drill but I'll make a crank anyway.

3 bolts with little nuts are all that holds the tripod legs on. Remove them and you have a single pole. No need to drill out rivets.

The rubber feet from the tripod fit the top of the pole but the bottom outer pole is a larger diameter. 1.5" I think. I'll pick up a rubber tip later.

My pole is about 1/2"-3/4" too short for a full lift from floor to ceiling. It runs out of threads just before it meets the lifting boards with camper open. Easy enough to fix. Other wise it seems like it will work well enough for now. Hope this help anyone thinking of one of these.

One other thing was weird. I used to make my living behind a sound board. I lived on the road for several years. I spent a lot of time in music stores all around the country. But It's been a good while since I left that business. I haven't been in a music store in many years. I think everyone who worked in that store was born after I left the business. Made me feel very old! Some days it's just like that!
 
Had one of those days today.... if one has't chainsawed in a couple months ...just trying to start the thing wore me out. But the speaker stand lift is great... I did not use it after I put on the ext. lifts until I had 6 gallons of diesel up on the rack in 2 gallon roto-pax but that is another story... out pops my speaker crank and up it went no problem... a wonderful thing to carry should the back go out. I made a 2x4 foot with a forstner bit hole to match...glued an old mouse pad to the base so as not to slip out. Also a good lube for the threads is "Fluid Film" (lanolin) it is not petro. works on a lot of stuck stuff snd I also use it as my truck undercoat. So you were a roadie.... Like Jackson Brown's song.....
 
Squatch said:
My pole is about 1/2"-3/4" too short for a full lift from floor to ceiling. It runs out of threads just before it meets the lifting boards with camper open. Easy enough to fix.
I would leave it as is. The one the FWC ships is exactly the same.
The reason I would leave it is it is, there is no effort to lock the lift panel in place when there is only 3/4" of an inch to go. If you crank more than the roof is intended to lift, you risk damaging the roof. You could put huge force on the roof without realizing it, until it's too late.

If your speaker stand has a MAX (red line). Do not crank beyond that point. Even if you could crank an extra inch. The reason for this is you will extend the life of the gears. Cranking once you've run out of threads is a recipe for gear failure.

Enjoy the ease of the lift. I'm a huge dude that could easily lift the roof (I could probably rip it right off lol), but I use the speaker stand every time as it is much more ergonomic and easier on the body. It sucks to have a tweaked muscle when you want to relax and enjoy yourself.

Another tip is to be extra diligent on ensure all 6 latches are undone when using a speaker stand. Again, you could easily twist the roof before you know you are doing damage.

Enjoy. Glad you got a good deal.
 
So do you use this speaker stand to lift each end separately, or do you place it in the middle and raise the whole roof at once? Thanks!
 
shellback said:
So do you use this speaker stand to lift each end separately, or do you place it in the middle and raise the whole roof at once? Thanks!
Each end separately. I personally do the back near the door first. I have a roll over couch, so I do it from a seated position. It takes 50 cranks. Pretty quick and easy.
 
Thanks Bill. I figure a good fitting crutch tip on the bottom will take up any needed slack. I understand on over extending.

I will cut a couple of small boards with a hole saw to make sockets. I'm actually thinking of making longer lift boards to better support the weight on top when lifting the roof. My roof racks are mounted on the next aluminum ribs out from where the factory boards end. Extending the boards one more rib in each direction would directly support the weight on the racks. I don't have roof tracks.

I'm already making up a replacement crank. The cordless works great but when I'm loaded down it's just one more piece of equipment I'd prefer not to carry.
 
Squatch said:
I'm already making up a replacement crank. The cordless works great but when I'm loaded down it's just one more piece of equipment I'd prefer not to carry.
I personally don't mind cranking manually. I too enjoy the space savings. 50 cranks is no big deal. I like the idea of being in control. There has been the odd time when something didn't quite feel right ie. forgot to undo a latch. I likely would have done damage to the roof with a drill before figuring it out.
 
I have now used my stand lifter a couple of times. 1st time I was surprised how hard my drill was working to get it up. I thought maybe the battery was low. So last time I used a fresh battery. it was a little better but still working hard. Not the biggest drill I own but not a wimp either. But it does get the job done.

I may yet still upgrade to 4 outside lift struts to replace the 2 I have inside.

I'll keep trying stuff and get it where I want it yet!
 
"My pole is about 1/2"-3/4" too short for a full lift from floor to ceiling."

Same. I made up a small wooden block with a round recess bored into it. Later I realized that if the tripod legs are not fully opened (if that's even possible in the aisle) then naturally the pole sits higher and the extension is sufficient while still being stable enough.

Great tool to have btw, I use the hand crank.
 
Most folks take the tripod legs off.
I use a block like you do.
Also I find the hand crank is easier than the drill.
 
If anyone wants to use the drill I would suggest finding what clutch setting the drill would need to not slip and use that so the drill would likely clutch out if one of the roof clamps was not disengaged. Just a thought :)
 
This is great feedback. I checked on line and found two reasonably priced light weight products with good weight limits that seem to fit the bill.


On Stage SS8800B Plus Power Crank Up Speaker Stand
YORKVILLE SKS31B TRIPOD STAND CRANK ALUMINUM 46-72"
 

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