Stupid question: Airing down tires

I use this;
http://compare.ebay.com/like/190741725024?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar

It's a great compressor and will even run an impact wrench. Some may think the tank is a waste of room, and you could remove it, but the entire package is pretty small and it's bullet proof. I also lhave the Puma AC compressor in my garage.
 
Pretty much anything from George at Extreme Outback is good. ViAir is another good brand. And the newer twin-compressor ARB is good too.

The problem with the cheap compressors (or fridges, or winches, or . . .) is that there's always someone - sometimes more than one - who'll swear to having used Discount Brand X for years with no problems. And he might be telling the truth. But for everyone who's had good luck there's someone else who's had bad luck, generally at the worst possible time. The question is, when you're buying something as critical as a compressor, do you want to trust to luck?
 
The question is, when you're buying something as critical as a compressor, do you want to trust to luck?


Flew in the Navy and had stuff in my survival vest I hoped to never use but expected it to work if needed. My wife and son will almost always be with me so making sure they are safe is paramount. I really appreciate all the input and advice.
 
The problem with the cheap compressors...for everyone who's had good luck there's someone else who's had bad luck, generally at the worst possible time....

I'd want to see some kind of statistics on that claim, that it's a one-for-one good-luck/bad-luck balance. I don't believe it.

Here's a way to think about it: If you drive in sand a lot, air down a lot, and use a compressor a lot -- just like if you do anything a lot -- there's a greater chance that eventually a low-probability event (like compressor failure) will occur.
But since the OP asked the question "when to air down tires?" it doesn't sound like he's the kind of guy who airs down a lot, otherwise he wouldn't need to ask the question in the first place...so he won't be using a compressor a lot...so an expensive little-used purchase probably wouldn't be money well-spent. It wouldn't be for me, anyway.

The problem with most "better safe than sorry" arguments leading people to take (excessive) measures against perceived risk (like with "packing heat"...) is that they don't properly weight the cost of "safe" against a low-probability "sorry".
But I guess if money isn't a limitation, then the money-cost of "safe" is irrelevant, even if the "sorry" is something that never happens in an average lifetime.

WTW people who've reported on it here are happy with their MV-50 compressors. Good enough for me...but then, I don't require a risk-free life.
wink.gif
 
One reason I want the CO2 setup is the ability to reseat a bead. The MV-50 isn't going to do it unless its just barely unseated. As I do a lot of solo trips thats a bit more important to me. The capability to run air tools is a nice bonus too. Plus speed. I hate waiting for slow compressors.

How much air I'll need for the truck I need to find out. The Jeep at 10 psi is squirrely on the road. Back to 15 and I can drive to a service station to fill up. I'm hoping 35 or so in the truck will be adequate to make it to civilization should a compressor fail. Maybe I'll run some tests this weekend if I really do get three days off.

Of course theres always the option of going with someone else and using their air :)
 
I didn't post in the MV-50 thread, but I have two of them. Never had an issue with one of them. The other saw the OE soldered connection to the relay hidden under the end cap fail. Ironically it was on the coldest camping trip that I've ever been on. And I really, really needed it to pump up my pneumatic Spud Cannon. Anything below 100 psi is a waste of time. 130-160 psi is the sweet spot, will launch a red russet literally out of sight. So I dug out the crimpers and terminals to fix it.

I never go to a pressure lower than I'm willing to drive out on. That is my safety measure, the compressor is a convenience.

Any combustible aerosol will re-seat a tire bead, but you HAVE to know how to do it (relatively) safely. Few do. First is to remove the valve stem core. That requires some sort of specialized tool and is absolutely crucial to do. Next is after spraying around the bead & inside that you spray a "fuse" on the ground some distance away from the tire. Just like poor ol' Wile E. Coyote's blasting powder fuses. You don't want to be too close to the tire.
As always with something dangerous, you're on your own if you use this method and the Secretary will disavow any knowledge of this post should something go wrong.
 
I'd want to see some kind of statistics on that claim, that it's a one-for-one good-luck/bad-luck balance. I don't believe it.

Mark, that claim comes from 25 years of testing equipment of all kinds, starting with reviews in Outside Magazine, most recently Overland Journal and then Overland Tech and Travel, and receiving hundreds of emails from users of that equipment. I keep a file of them that requires a separate hard drive. The $29.95-compressor issue comes up frequently.

I understand the argument for not spending the money if you won't need it often - the problem there is that cheap compressors are more likely to seize up from disuse (as are cheap winches; I've seen both do just that). I still maintain it's smart to invest in a good compressor - and also that airing down should be a regular procedure to reduce trail erosion and stress on the vehicle, not just as an emergency tactic. Even if you do have good luck with a cheap compressor, it will be way too slow for you to get into the habit of airing down.

Regarding reseating beads, the idea that you need a big compressor or a CO2 tank (much less flammable aerosols) is a pervasive myth. I've done it repeatedly with very small compressors, as mentioned here.
 
Being a minimalist, I don't own much ****, but when I do buy ****, I buy good ****. I never regret it.

Not to hijack this thread, but check this out, I have one of these on order: http://www.teslamotors.com/

Once you drive one of these, damn! It won't be long. 300+ mile 4x4 will be only a few years away. Supercharging stations take only 1/2 hour.
 
Here is a place to start. http://www.sierraexpeditions.com/index.php?l=product_list&c=103 You will not regret buying a good air compressor.

I went with an ExpeditionAire from Extremeaire. I liked the fact that it has two air compressors working together. One goes bad I still have one going.

Overland Hadley,
If you have a reasonable size photo of that compressor, would you be kind enough to post it? The photo on the website is literally postage-stamp size.

Thanks.
Bill
 
Overland Hadley,
If you have a reasonable size photo of that compressor, would you be kind enough to post it? The photo on the website is literally postage-stamp size.

Thanks.
Bill


Sure, I will pull it out this weekend and take some photos.
 
Not to hijack this thread, but check this out, I have one of these on order: http://www.teslamotors.com/

Once you drive one of these, damn! It won't be long. 300+ mile 4x4 will be only a few years away. Supercharging stations take only 1/2 hour.


A electric 4x4, used in the outback will take far more charge per mile than a tiny sedan built of the lightest materials and capable of carrying only a minimal load. The FWC camper on it will nearly outweigh the sedan and the FWC is one of the lightest options for self contained travel. To say nothing of the extra load required to drive dirt, sand, gravel and so on roads. The tiny sedan shown could not even make it through the easy creek fords I do regularly in Georgia's wildlife areas.

And I doubt that charging stations will ever be close enough in the outback even if it did have a 300+ mile range. And in any case to meet my Ranger's specs (not counting carrying extra gas) you would need 400+ mile range. If you look at 4x4 like the new international Ranger (which Ford is NOT selling in the US, but could be) a much greater range would be the norm. In the 1970's and 1980's my repowered Toyota Chinook pop top camper got 860+ miles per fill up, 36mpg. I definitely drove it through trips where well more than 300 miles between fill up would be needed.

A "4x4" that can only drive paved roads with a little snow on them getting to work is about the best you are likely to see in electric with even the latest available technology.

To say nothing of the actual total energy requirement to run an electric. The efficiency of the entire system, including all the energy losses of the electric generation and long distance transmission is not wonderful. That's what needs to be talked about, not the end use plugin.
 
To say nothing of the actual total energy requirement to run an electric. The efficiency of the entire system, including all the energy losses of the electric generation and long distance transmission is not wonderful. That's what needs to be talked about, not the end use plugin.


That is what I have wondered about. What is the cost per 100 miles to charge these vehicles?
 
Hadley, at high daytime AC rates it works to less than $3 per 100 miles. At night rates are 1/2 that and if you're doing your own solar pretty much free. If you test drive one of these, as I have, it will blow your mind. Electricity is the future, there is no doubt.
 
Gene is right - centralized power production (large electricity plant) will virtually always be more efficient than 10,000 individual power plants (a bunch of gas-burning cars).

Much as I love internal-combustion engines, we need to plan for the future, not wait until it clubs us over the head. Elon Musk is certainly ahead of his time.

There, Gene: Have I earned a ride in your new Tesla?
 
"There, Gene: Have I earned a ride in your new Tesla? "

Jonathan,
I've been trying to get him out to Tucson for 6 years now. Maybe when he gets his new golf cart he'll make the drive.
 
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