Tailgate width and camper width, how tight is to tight?

2trout

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 28, 2016
Messages
103
Location
Glenwood Springs
My wife and I will be putting a FWC/ATC/Phoenix into our 2002 Tundra, 92000 miles.

My question is regarding the tailgate width and the widest part of the camper.

We have a tailgate width of 58". Our camper will not live on the truck but will be loaded and unloaded when needed.

Just how wide can you go and still have a manageable loading process? FWC Hawks I've measured are all nearly 57"! We would have only an maybe inch clearance. What is a reasonable camper width at the tailgate for loading/unloading?


2trout
 
you should be able to put your fingers in a bit each side ...so 1/2-3/4" will do. If you are diligent in keeping your turnbuckles tight. I have had no trouble in 6 years (1/2" is fine)
 
Our ATC Ocelot has about 1/4" at the most on both sides of our 05 Tundra. Just gotta have a light touch on the wheel when loading and unloading. And make sure you take your wife out to lunch and dinner when you load in the afternoon!
 
Just spoke with a for sale hawk owner. Width that fits in the tail gate opening is 57 1/2. I have 58 1/4. Is my 58 1/4 distance enough for a 57 1/2 wide camper?
 
Taku said:
Our ATC Ocelot has about 1/4" at the most on both sides of our 05 Tundra. Just gotta have a light touch on the wheel when loading and unloading. And make sure you take your wife out to lunch and dinner when you load in the afternoon!
I have a 2013 hawk on a 05 Tundra. Quicker if the wife does not help.
 
Hi 2trout - I have the same situation of less than 1/2 inch on either side. I live on a gradual grade, so there is no place to store the camper that is flat. Given this, it is a royal pain (a few frustrating hours) to load or unload the camper. I had planned to take it off a few times a year, instead, it virtually never comes off.
Flyfisher
 
Taku said:
Our ATC Ocelot has about 1/4" at the most on both sides of our 05 Tundra. Just gotta have a light touch on the wheel when loading and unloading. And make sure you take your wife out to lunch and dinner when you load in the afternoon!
Ours is a snug fit also. I like close tolerances and the camper pretty much centers itself.
 
Thanks all!

My take from the answers here is that given a fairly flat grade loading and unloading is managable with 1/2 on each side in the tailgate area.

The reason for my question is its a 8 hour drive to FWC i am considering.

trout
 
Just a few pointers. First couple times it was stressful for me as I tend to hurry. Just did not want to hit the camper or scrap the side of the truck. ... BUT after a coupe times you have down the "mental steps"...
being sure to get in and out to take a real close look . (I actually found it better to do this solo then with the wife.... as my angst teleported to her ....not good)

*Go only a foot at a time and check
*I put a magic marker red mark on the dead center of the camper front base as well as the center of the tailgate on the bed so I could aim better.
* be sure to stop about a foot from full install so you can plug in the electric
* You only need about an inch clearance bed to base so don't over lift the camper on the jacks (use a measuring tape when you raise the camper on the jacks
*lower it slowly ... you can kick the jacks with your boot to edge the camper one way or the other a quarter inch at a time.... but also take note that it is straight front to back
* Have a cold beer AFTER not before doing the above.
 
2trout you don't mention whether the camper will be new or used.

Assuming its new is the factory building it to fit your 2002 Tundra? or one of the newer trucks? Bed side wall height is different on different vehicles. If your considering replacing the 2002 in the next couple of years and you know what vehicle your getting, order it to fit that vehicle now,

If your buying used have the seller measure the distance from the floor to horizontal part of the camper. If your buying a newer model camper its probably higher than your bed side wall height. If not you need to bring some boards with you.
 
I have an older FWC Ranger II with the "Wings". Loading/unloading is always exciting (especially with tripod jacks) as there is maybe a 1/4" at the tailgate! I don't even try to back the truck under the camper. When off, the camper is on a dolly with casters. I line it up as close as possible before lifting the jacks and then push the truck back by hand. I make minor adjustments with a floor jack under the pumpkins as needed. Of course I have a nice flat concrete area for this and my truck is a light weight 1986 Toyota pickup, so pushing is very easy. The process takes me less than 45 minutes including tie downs.

cwd
 
Thanks all for the pointers! Im #2 on the list for this camper, and #1 is shakey! I wont know 'till Friday, but getting my ducks in a row for a drive Friday night!
 
2trout said:
Thanks all for the pointers! Im #2 on the list for this camper, and #1 is shakey! I wont know 'till Friday, but getting my ducks in a row for a drive Friday night!
Wow, hope all goes well! :)
 
RC Pilot Jim said:
2trout you don't mention whether the camper will be new or used.

Assuming its new is the factory building it to fit your 2002 Tundra? or one of the newer trucks? Bed side wall height is different on different vehicles. If your considering replacing the 2002 in the next couple of years and you know what vehicle your getting, order it to fit that vehicle now,

If your buying used have the seller measure the distance from the floor to horizontal part of the camper. If your buying a newer model camper its probably higher than your bed side wall height. If not you need to bring some boards with you.
Its a 2001 Hawk. All measurements seem to check out as fitting well, I was just nervous about loading and unloading in regards to the tailgate width/rear width of camper.

Ill have a bit of space above my bed rails. Im 17", this Hawk has 22" (im ok with this space, lots of mods ou tthere to use it up) My cab height is 40-41" this hawk is 45" to cabover. Space between the jacks is 84" and my fenders go 79.5-80". So Im good to go I guess.
 
I have a gravel drive. That adds to the excitement as the truck and camper wiggle a bit in relation to each other. Just go slow and check your self every couple of inches. Same with raising and lowering the camper on the jack. Take your time. Do a little at a time.
 
I'm reminded of the story about the guy who listed his FWC shell for sale. He got so many phone calls he said the first one who arrives with the cash has it. caller #1 said he would be there the next day at 7 am. At 6am the next day another buyer was pounding on his door with cash in hand. He loaded it up and was driving away as caller # 1 was driving up.

Moral: good ones don't last long and sell at full asking price (at least the units 5 or more years old)
 
2trout,

My Fleet has about 1/2" clear on each rear side at the tailgate opening when it's in place. But bolts at the front side tie-downs project enough that the camper needs to be raised a bit to keep them from interfering with the opening when loading & unloading. Smooth 1/4" x 6" x 18" rubber is temporarily placed on the opening vertical edge with Fun Tac adhesive to protect the camper side, as well as act as a centering slide/guide. This also assures that the camper is no more than 1/4" off center. As others have said, going slow is the key to drama-free loading & unloading.

So far, I have not had the camper shift. Locknuts are used on all turnbuckles. The factory front bump stops and a thin rubber sheet under the camper seem to provide sufficient friction to prevent sideways movement.


Scott
 

New posts

Try RV LIFE Pro Free for 7 Days

  • New Ad-Free experience on this RV LIFE Community.
  • Plan the best RV Safe travel with RV LIFE Trip Wizard.
  • Navigate with our RV Safe GPS mobile app.
  • and much more...
Try RV Life Pro Today
Back
Top Bottom