Thermostat & Battery Monitor Questions

[bsharp007]

I went with this Honeywell thermostat, very simple only 2 buttons one for turning on the heater and the other turns on backlight.
FWC will probably install a 6 amp Morningstar controller which does not have the jack for the remote meter. I upgraded my controller to the Morningside 15 amp MPPT controller which does have the jack for the remote. The old controller couldn't handle another solar panel I'm planning on adding. Here's the thermostat.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Honeywell-Deluxe-Digital-Non-Programmable-Thermostat-RTH5100B/203186916

 

[longhorn1]

I went with this Honeywell thermostat, very simple only 2 buttons one for turning on the heater and the other turns on backlight.
FWC will probably install a 6 amp Morningstar controller which does not have the jack for the remote meter. I upgraded my controller to the Morningside 15 amp MPPT controller which does have the jack for the remote. The old controllwe couldn't handle another solar panel I'm planning on adding. Here's the thermostat.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Honeywell-Deluxe-Digital-Non-Programmable-Thermostat-RTH5100B/203186916

Thanks for your reply. John

 

[norcalhawk]

I just installed the same thermostat as bsharp. Its very basic and simple to use. The lowest setting is 40 degrees. Putting it to the test: Last week, I spent three nights camped (in my Hawk) on Mt. Shasta, near Bunny Flat, where the low temps. hovered in the mid-30's. I set my thermostat at 40 and turn the unit off. In the morning I reached down and pushed the "heat" on button and the thermostat clicked on within a few seconds. Thermostat turned off when the inside temp. reached 40 degrees. Works like a charm. The next night I set the thermostat at 45 degrees and left the unit on. During the night the inside temp. never fell below 45. I'm happy with this simple Non-Programmable Digital Thermostat.
Also, can anyone recommend a good battery meter (sometimes referred to as a voltmeter?) that I can install permanently inside, wired directly to the battery? I have a Zamp Portable, 80W Solar set up which has the "controller" attached to the back of the panel, with ~20' of cable that plugs into the camper. I would like to see the status of my batteries from inside.
Thanks

 

[ntsqd]

I installed a Bogart TriMetric battery monitor. It is mentioned in the Handy Bob blog and appears to be de rigour in bigger solar installs. the price caused me some pause, but since the moment it went live I've not regretted my decision.

 

[norcalhawk]

atsqd, This might be the way to go, if it can work with my set up. Can you walk us through how you wired your trimester? photos? A shunt??

 

[Bwht4x4]

Here's a picture of my battery box with the shunt installed.

The Trimetric unit is easy to install if you closely follow the instructions, and there's a lot of instructions and information!

 

[ntsqd]

I don't have any pics, but like that ^

Included is an Installer's Manual and a User's Manual, it's quite thoroughly and clearly documented. I've set mine up so that I can also monitor the starting batteries' voltage as well. At the moment nothing that I've added can charge the starting batteries, but that is expected to change in the next iteration of the system.

 

[pvstoy]

What size shunt are you using? I just bought the Bogart TriMetric 2030rv model and the 100 amp rated to 75 amp shunt. I can not see my system hitting 75 amps in or out. The smaller shunt will get me two decimal places on the reading. Handy Bob web page has been good for getting started with solar. First install the gauge and see what we use and how much panel we need.

 

[Bwht4x4]

I'm using the 500 amp shunt. I could be wrong but I seem to hear/see the 500 amp shunt used more often than the 100 amp shunt. I'm not sure why though.

 

[pvstoy]

http://www.bestconverter.com/assets/images/Bogart/SHUNTInfo2.pdf

MKB-500-50


: Manufactured by Deltec
Resistance: "500 Amp at 50 millivolts", or 0.1 milliohm.
Max. steady state current, amps: (Note 1): 410 Amperes
Thermal time constant (Note2): 18 minutes
Overload current:If normally operated at less than 300 amps, it will take overloads to 500 amps for durations of
less than 5 minutes.
Physical characteristics:
Has a plastic base 3.25 x 1.75 in. with two mounting holes .205 "dia, 1.25" apart o.c.
1.75 inches overall height. High current connections are made to two bolts (3/8"-16) which are 1.50 in. apart (o.c).

MKA-100-100: "mini shunt" Manufactured by Deltec
Resistance: "100 Amp at 100 millivolts" or 1.0 milliohm.
Max. steady state current, amps: (Note 1): 75 Amps
Thermal time constantNote2): 30 seconds
Overload current:If normally operated at less than 50 amps, it will take overloads to 100 amps for durations of
up to 8 seconds.
Physical characteristics:
Has plastic base 2.00 x 1.25 inches, with two mounting holes .205 "dia, .875 apart o.c.
Overall height 1.7 inches. High current connections are made to two bolts (1/4"-28) which are 1.00" apart.

http://www.bestconverter.com/TriMetric-Battery-Monitor_c_66.html

Yes the bigger is more common to buy but do we really need the bigger one?

 

[Bwht4x4]

I cannot not say if one is better than the other. I installed this shunt kit: http://www.amsolar.com/home/amr/page_126_40/tri-metric_wire_harness_wshunt.html

Call Roger at AM Solar to see what they say about the two different shunts. They're very helpful.

 

[pvstoy]

Surprised that they don't offer the new 2030rv model yet. Going to use Cat5 wire for the short run for mine. Already in the garage = free.
I'll try the smaller one and watch it. Burn it up can always put the larger one in.

 

[Bwht4x4]

From what I know the 2030rv is either already out in a very limited quantity or is about to go out. The differences between the 2030 and 2025 is so little that I opted to get the 2025 now and not wait. Not to mention I was going to go with a different solar controller than the new controller they're putting out to work with the 2030.

Either way they're pretty cool. Literally 30 minutes ago I hooked up my solar panel and controller and watched the Trimetric's display ramp up with amps and have watched it slowly go down as the battery approaches full.

 

[pvstoy]

Awsome.... great to see a plan come together and work!

I have delt with http://www.bestconverter.com/ in the past and good prices too. Have a 2030rv and small shunt on the way. After some time I'll have the same smile on my face as you when the plan comes together. Thanks for your postings and comments...

 

[Bwht4x4]

No worries. I plan on doing a full post on my 2-way refrig install and my solar panel/controller/monitor install when I'm done and have a couple of trips under my belt.

 

[ntsqd]

Probably a little late, but I went with the 500A shunt based solely on the fact that my stock Alternator can exceed 100A. The odds of that actually happening are pretty tiny, but it's possible. I saw the difference in resolution as being nearly inconsequential.

 

[pvstoy]

Good point that I overlooked. I guess after installing I can reve up the engine to higher RPMs and see what amps makes it to the meter. I know what the voltage is but not the amps.

 

[craig333]

Installed a new thermostat today. Non programmable. Only reason I did was because I found one with a 35 degree low setpoint. Uses two aaa batteries. Would have been a five minute installation but between the screws for the old one and the screws for the new one I needed four screwdrivers.

It appears these are only sold by home depot and I didn't see them listed when I looked online.


Btw, thats a ritetemp 6020. Anyone have any ideas for cleaning up the damage from past installations?