Is it necessary or perhaps advised to upgrade to a higher weight rated tire such as an "E" rated tires on these truck campers? I'm picking up my ATC Bobcat Shell next week and right now I'm under payload but I'll be runnning the regular passenger tires that came on my Nissan truck. Opinions?
Tires
- Thread starter Quint
- Start date
Do some rough paper calcs to see what the load is, but the best way is to take the loaded truck to a set of scales and actually weigh each axle (each wheel if you can do it) to find the true load (hopefully you can do this with it all loaded, liquided and ready for a trip) and then compare it to the tire capacity at the inflation you use.
Pete
Pete
Tires...
On my '94 Mazda B4000 extra-cab 4WD/Eagle FWC shell camper I decided to go with B.F. Goodrich All Terrain T/A LT235/75R15 tires. They have a 3 ply rated sidewall and they took away a lot of the "wallow" I was experiencing. Those, in addition to two extra leaves in each of the rear spring packs and a set of Pro-Comp shocks and steering stabilizer make my rig just right.
The guy who sets up a lot of the desert search and rescue rigs here in our area in southern NM recommended them and I really like them...After our 4K plus trip to Mexico-Belize-Guatamala they still looked brand new.
I think it depends on what you want to do and where you want to go. I definately wanted a common tire that I could match up anywhere in the Americas and that was aggressive enough for mild offroading but also not being real noisy on the highway.
I like to keep a vehicle as stock as I can (not being like the Westcotts and their Turtle Expedition rigs with sponsor companies paying for everything)....usually the vehicle manufacturers have invested far more in R and D than any of the aftermarket companies can afford. For me that includes staying with a reasonable tire size for the rig and having everything be available wherever we go. But I have to take into account that we go to areas where that is a consideration. If you do your travel in the states, that is a less important issue.
Brian
On my '94 Mazda B4000 extra-cab 4WD/Eagle FWC shell camper I decided to go with B.F. Goodrich All Terrain T/A LT235/75R15 tires. They have a 3 ply rated sidewall and they took away a lot of the "wallow" I was experiencing. Those, in addition to two extra leaves in each of the rear spring packs and a set of Pro-Comp shocks and steering stabilizer make my rig just right.
The guy who sets up a lot of the desert search and rescue rigs here in our area in southern NM recommended them and I really like them...After our 4K plus trip to Mexico-Belize-Guatamala they still looked brand new.
I think it depends on what you want to do and where you want to go. I definately wanted a common tire that I could match up anywhere in the Americas and that was aggressive enough for mild offroading but also not being real noisy on the highway.
I like to keep a vehicle as stock as I can (not being like the Westcotts and their Turtle Expedition rigs with sponsor companies paying for everything)....usually the vehicle manufacturers have invested far more in R and D than any of the aftermarket companies can afford. For me that includes staying with a reasonable tire size for the rig and having everything be available wherever we go. But I have to take into account that we go to areas where that is a consideration. If you do your travel in the states, that is a less important issue.
Brian
chnlisle
Post Master
Like Brian I've used T/A All Terrains on every truck I've ever owned and they have lasted longer than any other I've tried. Several friends use them as well and all of us go to pretty rough areas with FWC's on. Ive had them on a Nissan 2 Toyotas and now my Ram 2500. I wish everything I've bought over the years preformed as well.
LAWNMOWERMAN
Senior Member
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2007
- Messages
- 214
Like the rest of you I also have BFG's. ( A/T 265-75-16E)They are great tires and the E rating makes them a lot harder to puncture.They are a little more expensive but well worth it.
brett13
Lovecock
- Joined
- Dec 10, 2006
- Messages
- 1,026
Tire Math
Here is how I am figuring the capacity of my tires. I have no idea what "D" or "E" rated means and can't even find that info for my tires. If anyone cares to explain or provide a reference, I would appreciate it. In the meantime, here is how I examined it, please correct me if this is wrong.
Curb weight of my truck: 5700# distributed 60/40 fr/rr, so that is 2280# on the back axle. A payload of 1600# would sit mostly over the rear axle, let's say 75/25 or 400fr/1200rr. That is a total of 3820 fr and 3480 rear. My BFG Rugged Trail A/T 275/65R18's have a stated max load of 2600#. There are two taking the rear weight, so evenly distributed would be 5200# vs less than 3500 it actually must carry. Looked at the other way, the 3820 up front would be about 1900 per tire vs the 2600 each tire can take. I feel comfortable with this. Should I be?
Since all that math ended up even more conservative than the axle ratings (4000# fr and rr each), perhaps it would be easier to make sure the max tire load x 2 is greater than your axle rating? Assuming of course you don't overload the vehicle/axle by much.
Here is how I am figuring the capacity of my tires. I have no idea what "D" or "E" rated means and can't even find that info for my tires. If anyone cares to explain or provide a reference, I would appreciate it. In the meantime, here is how I examined it, please correct me if this is wrong.
Curb weight of my truck: 5700# distributed 60/40 fr/rr, so that is 2280# on the back axle. A payload of 1600# would sit mostly over the rear axle, let's say 75/25 or 400fr/1200rr. That is a total of 3820 fr and 3480 rear. My BFG Rugged Trail A/T 275/65R18's have a stated max load of 2600#. There are two taking the rear weight, so evenly distributed would be 5200# vs less than 3500 it actually must carry. Looked at the other way, the 3820 up front would be about 1900 per tire vs the 2600 each tire can take. I feel comfortable with this. Should I be?
Since all that math ended up even more conservative than the axle ratings (4000# fr and rr each), perhaps it would be easier to make sure the max tire load x 2 is greater than your axle rating? Assuming of course you don't overload the vehicle/axle by much.
simimike
Contributors
Brett13 says it best. Guesstimate the the weight of the truck and camper fully loaded and divide by four. Allow for some wiggle room and D rated tires should be more than adequate in your case. I have E rated tires and they are rated at 3195 lbs each.
The ABCDE rating is for weight and sidewall strength. A E rated tire would not be the best for extreme off road use, as airing down would not give you as big of a foot print as a C rated tire. These are my thoughts on the subject, I hope it helps.
Cheers,
Mike
The ABCDE rating is for weight and sidewall strength. A E rated tire would not be the best for extreme off road use, as airing down would not give you as big of a foot print as a C rated tire. These are my thoughts on the subject, I hope it helps.
Cheers,
Mike
Hmmmm
My trucks GVWR is 4700 lbs. The payload rating is 1312 lbs. That means my truck weighs 3388 lbs. unloaded. I have standard weight tires rated for 1753 lbs. each. Assuming I max out the payload my truck weighs 4700 lbs. Doing the math works out to 1175 lbs. on each tire leaving me 578 lbs. under on each tire or 2312 lbs. under total. How or why would I ever need higher rated tires on my small truck with such a small payload capacity/GVWR than just a standard load tire?
My trucks GVWR is 4700 lbs. The payload rating is 1312 lbs. That means my truck weighs 3388 lbs. unloaded. I have standard weight tires rated for 1753 lbs. each. Assuming I max out the payload my truck weighs 4700 lbs. Doing the math works out to 1175 lbs. on each tire leaving me 578 lbs. under on each tire or 2312 lbs. under total. How or why would I ever need higher rated tires on my small truck with such a small payload capacity/GVWR than just a standard load tire?
pvstoy
Senior Member
Whatever tire and rating you end up with don't forget air pressure. What is stamped on the the tire is the max load the tire will handle at the max air pressure.
So throwing numbers out there: If tire is rated at load 2800 lbs with 55 psi then with that you would adjust so the thread pattern is flat. I see soo many tire places putting in the max air pressure with a empty load. All that will do is give you a bouncy harsh ride and wear out the middle thread.
Most of us have changed tires and sizes from stock so the door tag is not valid anymore.
A quick way to determine tire pressure: Take chalk and draw a line across the thread on each tire. On a smooth pavement (concrete) drive striaght to wear off some chalk. Look at the where the chalk is wearing off and adjust air pressure. Middle--lower the pressure, Outside--add more pressure.
I'll put more air in then do the test so as I just remove air.
So throwing numbers out there: If tire is rated at load 2800 lbs with 55 psi then with that you would adjust so the thread pattern is flat. I see soo many tire places putting in the max air pressure with a empty load. All that will do is give you a bouncy harsh ride and wear out the middle thread.
Most of us have changed tires and sizes from stock so the door tag is not valid anymore.
A quick way to determine tire pressure: Take chalk and draw a line across the thread on each tire. On a smooth pavement (concrete) drive striaght to wear off some chalk. Look at the where the chalk is wearing off and adjust air pressure. Middle--lower the pressure, Outside--add more pressure.
I'll put more air in then do the test so as I just remove air.
craig333
Riley's Human
You really do need to adjust like pvstoy says. On my Jeep, its so light I only need 20# of air on the street.
My old camper, which was a heavy beast, was too much for the tires I had on it. I had four blowouts on that thing, two of them with relatively new tires. When in doubt opt for a higher rating.
My old camper, which was a heavy beast, was too much for the tires I had on it. I had four blowouts on that thing, two of them with relatively new tires. When in doubt opt for a higher rating.
erod
Senior Member
- Joined
- May 7, 2007
- Messages
- 664
rossandwendy
Member
- Joined
- Oct 14, 2007
- Messages
- 20
Based on everyone's experience, will a P rated tire on an '07 4WD Tundra carrying a loaded FWC Hawk be stable enough? I've had excellent results in the past with the Bridgstone A/T Dueler Revo on a smaller truck (especially rain traction) so am leaning towards getting those but in the size for my truck, 275-65R/18, they only come in a P, not an LT, and even though the max inflation load rating of 2601 pounds per tire appears to be more than enough on paper, I am concerned with the P's not having as stiff a sidewall and thus not supporting the load as well. They also only have 11mm of tread depth compared to most LT tires being around 17mm tread.
My other choices would be the BFG T/A KO in an LT 285/65R-18 with load range E and I suspect it would be a lot more stable with the loaded camper due to its 3-ply sidewall (but probably also a noticeably stiffer ride) or would perhaps consider the Toyo Open Country A/T in a heavier-duty LT type.
Thanks in advance for any comments you can share,
Ross
My other choices would be the BFG T/A KO in an LT 285/65R-18 with load range E and I suspect it would be a lot more stable with the loaded camper due to its 3-ply sidewall (but probably also a noticeably stiffer ride) or would perhaps consider the Toyo Open Country A/T in a heavier-duty LT type.
Thanks in advance for any comments you can share,
Ross
Marc
Fire Proof
Like alot of other people here, I too have also run BFG AT's on all of my previous trucks with no complaints. However, on my present rig I am running Toyo Open Country AT's in a 285/75/18 E rated. Needless to say I prefer these over the BFG's. Quieter ride and they do alot better in the mud.
Marc
Marc
rossandwendy
Member
- Joined
- Oct 14, 2007
- Messages
- 20
Like alot of other people here, I too have also run BFG AT's on all of my previous trucks with no complaints. However, on my present rig I am running Toyo Open Country AT's in a 285/75/18 E rated. Needless to say I prefer these over the BFG's. Quieter ride and they do alot better in the mud.
Marc
This is great feedback Marc, thanks! The Toyo looks like a nice compromise between the Revo and the BFG's and getting the E rated version for better stability with the FWC would be nice.
Cheers,
Ross
Marc
This is great feedback Marc, thanks! The Toyo looks like a nice compromise between the Revo and the BFG's and getting the E rated version for better stability with the FWC would be nice.
Cheers,
Ross
I don’t get the thing with BFG A/T I have used them in the past and they are noisy and rough ridding. I blew on out in Montana and couldn’t find a dealer anywhere and had to purchase two Goodyear's. I was in baja and blew out a BFG and again could not get one but Goodyears were everywhere. Goodyear has ten times the stores than Goodrich. I have had nothing but great success with the Goodyear wranglers, including replacement in other countries and Alaska. there is nothing worse than cutting down a tire and having to buy two to match because you can’t find one matching tire. get the load rating E and then you don't have to worry about the load.
craig333
Riley's Human
Check on the Revo's again. I hear they came out with some more sizes.
rossandwendy
Member
- Joined
- Oct 14, 2007
- Messages
- 20
Check on the Revo's again. I hear they came out with some more sizes.
I re-checked Bridegstone's own website as well as that of three tire sellers, and they all show only two 18" size, both Passenger rated...
I re-checked Bridegstone's own website as well as that of three tire sellers, and they all show only two 18" size, both Passenger rated...
Stan@FourWheel
Senior Member
I don't know all that much about tires, just a basic understanding from customer feedback and personal experience.
My last truck had "E" rates tires (Ext.Cab, Short Bed F-150) and it rode pretty rough / bumpy down the road.
The truck I have now (Ext. Cab, Long Bed F-150) has "D" rates tires and it seems to ride a bit smoother. But that might just be because it is a different truck and suspension ?
A co-worker here bought a new 2006 Tundra last year and we looked at the stock tires that came on it. The tread looked good at first glance, but if you looked at the specs, they were cheap tires. The treadwear rating was really low, the speed & temperature ratings seems low too (B ratings).
It seems like the better tires have the "A" ratings for that stuff (speed & temperature).
I like the idea of having the stiffer side walls and upgraded tires when carrying a camper on the truck. I think it will also help take some of the tire sway when driving with a heavy load.
It seems like the "E" rated tires are over kill when you are just looking at putting a small FWC pop-up on the truck.
If you were going to put a full cab-over camper on the truck (Six-Pac, Lance, Bigfoot, Alpinelite, etc.) I would highly recommend the "E" rated tires.
But for a small pop-up camper, you have a bit more wiggle room.
.
My last truck had "E" rates tires (Ext.Cab, Short Bed F-150) and it rode pretty rough / bumpy down the road.
The truck I have now (Ext. Cab, Long Bed F-150) has "D" rates tires and it seems to ride a bit smoother. But that might just be because it is a different truck and suspension ?
A co-worker here bought a new 2006 Tundra last year and we looked at the stock tires that came on it. The tread looked good at first glance, but if you looked at the specs, they were cheap tires. The treadwear rating was really low, the speed & temperature ratings seems low too (B ratings).
It seems like the better tires have the "A" ratings for that stuff (speed & temperature).
I like the idea of having the stiffer side walls and upgraded tires when carrying a camper on the truck. I think it will also help take some of the tire sway when driving with a heavy load.
It seems like the "E" rated tires are over kill when you are just looking at putting a small FWC pop-up on the truck.
If you were going to put a full cab-over camper on the truck (Six-Pac, Lance, Bigfoot, Alpinelite, etc.) I would highly recommend the "E" rated tires.
But for a small pop-up camper, you have a bit more wiggle room.
.
Sam
Senior Member
Too bad they don't make the Dueler Revo for your truck. In my opinion it's the best tire you can get.
I have had the BFG A/T KO. I got them for the stronger side-wall, and they lasted a long time and worked very well off road. I found them to be horrible in heavy rain, it's easy to see that the tread pattern allows no way for water to get out.
You can get a tire that lasts 80k miles but it will howl and push around the corners, you can get a tire that sticks like glue but it will only last 20k miles. You have to decide what you want in a tire and what conditions you will be using them in and make your decision based on that. Usually it's a compromise.
I think a lot of people buy light truck tires based on looks. The BFG looks mean and they sell a lot of them.
I have had the BFG A/T KO. I got them for the stronger side-wall, and they lasted a long time and worked very well off road. I found them to be horrible in heavy rain, it's easy to see that the tread pattern allows no way for water to get out.
You can get a tire that lasts 80k miles but it will howl and push around the corners, you can get a tire that sticks like glue but it will only last 20k miles. You have to decide what you want in a tire and what conditions you will be using them in and make your decision based on that. Usually it's a compromise.
I think a lot of people buy light truck tires based on looks. The BFG looks mean and they sell a lot of them.
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