Turnbuckle replacement size?

[Holmes]

Unfortunately not with the 4 wheel swift at the moment and installing camper next week. I'd like to replace the aluminum turnbuckles with steel and a jam nut while I'm installing the camper. You guys know the size turnbuckle used? Thanks, Nick

 

[longhorn1]

Curious why you want to replace yours. 8 years with the original turnbuckles. Never had one come off, never an issue. The turnbuckles we're designed to be the weak link. Better to have a turnbuckle break or Bend than to rip your camper or truck apart. My 2 cents.

 

[Holmes]

Curious why you want to replace yours. 8 years with the original turnbuckles. Never had one come off, never an issue. The turnbuckles we're designed to be the weak link. Better to have a turnbuckle break or Bend than to rip your camper or truck apart. My 2 cents.

That's interesting. They were actually designed to be a weak link? First time I heard that. I can understand your theory. I would also want to trust my bracket, bolts and camper not getting destroyed from a turnbuckle that holds it strength. There's been quite a few complaints of the aluminum turnbuckles failing and potentially losing a camper, which I've seen. Most complaints are campers shifting and the loosening of turnbuckles. I'm sure you're aware of this. But you do have me thinking about it a bit more from your perspective.
I suppose it also depends on were you're taking your rig and the road/trail conditions as well. Thanks for the input, maybe I'll just see how it goes before and if I change them.

 

[kmcintyre]

I doubt there's a default size as it depends where the eye bolts are located, etc. Upgrade them IMHO. Don't let them fail.

 

[Lighthawk]

Jam nut is a good idea whichever way you go. We still have the aluminum FWC turnbuckles. Once I got a nylock wingnut on one side, they stopped loosening up on trips.

 

[Beach]

I measured and ordered accordingly and got the highest load rating within the size limit. I don't want the turnbuckle to be the weak link, although I understand the concept.

 

[Jon R]

I measured and ordered accordingly and got the highest load rating within the size limit. I don't want the turnbuckle to be the weak link, although I understand the concept.

Hi Beach. I’m curious what else you would want to be the weak link. I don’t want a bracket ripped out of the camper, and I don’t want an eyebolt ripped out, so that leaves the turnbuckle or some kind of inline fuse. I want to put something like springloads in but haven’t yet found workable hardware that will fit in the short length available. Do you have a different fusing approach in mind, or are you just going with “hell-for-stout” and hoping nothing ever fails? Thanks

 

[Lighthawk]

I decided to upgrade my FWC aluminum turnbuckles with Torklift brand.

Torklift S9012 Hook To Hook Turnbuckle S9012 4 $19.99 $79.96

The hooks are forged and the body has rounded corners, compared to the machine cut aluminum hardware. I use gorilla brand gloves to tighten by hand, then give another half turn or so with a small tool to tighten my turnbuckles. I've added a nylock wingnut to jam one side of the 'buckle, shown on the Torklift unit in the photo.

One factor that tipped my $80 purchase (bought through Tweety's in June) was how loosely the bolts rattled inside the existing aluminum 'buckles. These are 13 years old and we've given them a good workout.

I like the overall beefiness of the Torklift brand, and will now have one or two spares to carry along on the trail for ourselves or others in need!

I swapped the jam nut and wingnut in preparation to install. Torklift includes left and right hand thread nuts.