Using an utility trailer

[JoeKan]

How does an Alaskan fit onto a flat bed trailer? I'm wanting to use a tandem axle utility trailer for my 10' NCO. This will be her permanent place on the trailer so no more taking it off/on. My question is with the width of utility trailers being wider than a pickup bed, how would I be able to steer the trailer underneath it without hitting the jacks?

 

[Keith in Co]

If your trailer isn’t more than 8’ wide, you can use jack extenders for dual wheel trucks.
When I had a Chevy dually and a 10’ CO Alaskan, I built two extenders for the front jacks out of 3/16” wall 2x2” angle iron. Each extender was made of four 6” long pieces of angle welded into a square, the bolted in between the jack and the camper mounting plate.

 

[Jim in Idaho]

When I put my 10' NCO on a trailer, I narrowed the axle to match the Dodge's wheel track. Don't have jacks permanently mounted...the camper stays on the trailer 24-7.
Jim

 

[Philthytoo]

I've done that type of thing before, using beams and blocks. You'll need a couple long beams, say 4"x6" maybe 10 ft long, depending on how wide your trailer is. Lift your camper high enough so when you slide the beams under it they will clear the highest point on the trailer. Set the ends of the beams on blocks: cinder blocks, chunks of railroad ties, whatever you have. Remove the jacks, position the trailer, then you should be able to set the jacks on the trailer deck to remove the beams and set the camper where you want it.

 

[JoeKan]

Thanks y'all! I read somewhere that tandem axle trailers ride better than single. I.e. won't have the swaying or bouncing going down the highway. Any truth to this?
Stay safe!
Joe

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

I believe so, plus you have a bit of protection if you have a flat.

 

[Keith in Co]

Thanks y'all! I read somewhere that tandem axle trailers ride better than single. I.e. won't have the swaying or bouncing going down the highway. Any truth to this?
Stay safe!
Joe

My tandem axle trailer can sway under some conditions, although if loaded with an appropriate amount of tongue weight it rarely sways.
I agree with Sagebrush that tandems are safer with a flat. Had a blowout last month on my tandem while on a two-lane highway, but the trailer stayed up on the other tire on that side until I could pull off.

 

[JoeKan]

One more question concerning the tandem axle trailer. Can a 1/2 ton pickup pull it okay? The trailer I'm looking at weighs around 1400lbs and you add the weight of the Alaskan at 1700 lbs plus gear and it will be around 3500lbs. I'm thinking it "should" pull it without problems. It's a 2011 Silverado 4x4.

 

[CougarCouple]

As always check the manufacturer specs for the answer. But I can’t imagine a 1/2 ton truck wouldn’t. Your motor isn’t a 6 cyl ?

Russ

 

[JoeKan]

As always check the manufacturer specs for the answer. But I can’t imagine a 1/2 ton truck wouldn’t. Your motor isn’t a 6 cyl ?

Russ

Thanks Russ, I think you're right, it shouldn't have any problems with it. It's an 8cy.

 

[Denver Alaskan]

Does your Owners Manual or Service Manual have any towing specifications in it for your truck? If not, then Google can be your friend. I typed "Silverado 1500 4x4" in Google's search box and got a lot of conflicting information. The NADAguides.com web site states the Max Towing Capacity is 5,500 lbs. An answer to a "Question people ask" has a much different answer: "The 2011 Chevy Silverado 1500 can tow up to 10,700 lbs. with the 6.2L V8 engine and MAX Trailering Package." Of course, your Silverado may not have that particular engine and may not have the MAX Trailering Package, so check your Owners Manual, Service Manual, or data sticker for the towing capacity of your truck.

The more important question, however, is can your 2011 Silverado 1500 4x4 STOP a flatbed trailer with your 10' NCO Alaskan on it? You will have to install a brake controller in your Silverado and properly wire it to your trailer to have the truck and trailer brakes work together. IMO, stopping is more important than pulling.

 

[JoeKan]

Good points, thank you! Another question popped into my mind. I'm thinking that I should get a tandem axle trailer with the axles located more toward the middle of the trailer rather than towards the end of it? This, IMHO, will help balance the load. Is this correct or am I off on this one?

 

[Denver Alaskan]

You want 10-15% of your trailer's total loaded weight on the front coupler that hitches to your truck to provide stability. A different way of approaching this is to put 60% of the load's weight forward of the axle centerline and 40% behind the axle centerline. If there is no weight on the front coupler the trailer will tender to wander side-to-side traveling down the road.

You also want the bed of your loaded trailer to be level when towed. If you truck's receiver tube is higher than your trailer's coupler, use a drop hitch to lower the top of the hitch ball to be even with the inside top of your coupler. If vice-versa, flip the proper size receiver upside-down to raise the ball the required distance.

The trailers I see swaying the most on the highway usually have the coupler raised much higher that the trailer bed and have the load towards the rear of the trailer, exactly what NOT to do.

Here is a wikihow web site that covers the basics of loading a flatbed trailer:

https://www.wikihow.com/Load-a-Trailer

The text on how to determine the amount of receiver hitch drop or rise says measure to the top of the hitch ball and top of the coupler, but the diagram inconsistently shows measurements taken to the bottom of each. Just use both tops or both bottoms to be consistent. Bottom measurement are likely easier to take.

 

[JoeKan]

That was great! You've answered my questions and settled my fears, I appreciate it.

 

[Igottasail]

 

[Igottasail]

Just weighed mine and it came in at 2300 lbs.

 

[JoeKan]

My thoughts on hauling my Alaskan are constantly evovling. I'm thinking about getting a utility trailer (82"x16') to haul her in. I can use this trailer in a lot of other areas too, such as hauling my trucks and tractor in. I would appreciate your thoughts on how this will ride. Since it is 48" wide in the front and 56.5" at the rear that means I'm going to have a lot of space along the sides of the camper on the trailer. Would this look "interesting"?
I plan on building side lockers so the bottom half and top half will be flush with one another.
Do you think there's anything wrong with doing it this way?
The Alaskans I've seen being pulled on a trailer all have the sides flush or even with the sides of the trailer.
Thanks for any feedback! Time's getting short and I need to figure this out fairly soon.

 

[Maxsterblaster]

Do not try to balance the load. You want a 40/60 weight distribution. Otherwise you get tail whip.

Good points, thank you! Another question popped into my mind. I'm thinking that I should get a tandem axle trailer with the axles located more toward the middle of the trailer rather than towards the end of it? This, IMHO, will help balance the load. Is this correct or am I off on this one?

 

[JoeKan]

Hey another update. I just came home tonight with a used tandem axle utility trailer. It's 16ft long, got a great deal on it. My Alaskan is sitting on my 68 Ford f250. One of my sons who is in college is coming home this week to help me lift it off the 68 and put it on the utility trailer. My construction job is winding down here so I'll be hauling it up north so I can keep working. I'm planning on living in it all winter.

I did decide not to redo my seat cushions because it was very expensive. So I took a carpet cleaner and went over it a few times. I don't think that help to get the dusty musty smell off so I took a can of Ozium and sprayed one of the cushions and it actually took away the dusty smell! I'm going to see how long that will last.