Using existing propane connections for Mr Heater?

[fireball]

Greetings all,

Does anyone know how to tie into the existing propane fittings and connect a Mr. Heater?

Our Hawk has two capped propane Ts - probably for a 3 way fridge and a heater, neither of which my camper came with.

I'm wondering if there is a connection I can purchase that will allow me to go directly from one of the unused Ts and into the Mr Heater.

Here is a photo of the two connections inside the camper:




And here is the hose I would use to go directly between the propane tank and the Mr Heater. My finger is pointing to the side that goes into the heater.



Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks.


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[OSUFlyer]

I believe the Mr Heater requires a high pressure connection to work correctly. The interior propane connections are low pressure. You could always install another hose upstream of the regulator.

 

[WyoIDI]

If you're referring to the Mr Heater "buddy" heaters, I know for a fact that the Little buddy will not work with the low pressure LP (I know because I tried). But, I'm pretty sure the big buddy heater has an extra port for low pressure LP. Not positive on this tho. I just bought a Wave 3 which runs on low pressure LP and I'm going to plumb in a T just like the one in your picture. The T has flared fittings for either copper or the rubber LP specific hoses that will thread on there with appropriate propane teflon tape. Mr Buddy makes the fitting that connects to the heater and has an adapter that fits several different hose connections. I think this may be what your after on Amazon:


Mr. Heater F273716 22' Propane hose assembly 3/8'' Male pipe thread x 3/8''

It seems like a lot of folks use a quick disconnect system too, to make it easier to take it out of the camper.

 

[Old Crow]

fireball--

The Mr Heater Big Buddy model has a low-pressure connector and here's an article about using it in an RV.

According to Mr Heater's accessory page, item F271802 is a 12-foot hose to connect a Big Buddy to an RV or camper's existing regulated (low pressure) line.

If you read the description, it says this hose also works on the Tough Buddy model.

My guess is, though, that you're thinking about using the Portable Buddy. As far as I can tell there's no low-pressure port on that model.

Also-- I see there was a recall on the Big Buddy and Tough Buddy heaters. Newer ones are probably ok but you'd want to research carefully before going that route.

 

[fireball]

Thanks for the replies. I should have mentioned that I have the smaller Buddy unit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002G51BZU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

After doing some more reading I believe you guys are correct that the Buddy units need HP lines... they have their own internal regulator and thus do not need a regulator when connecting directly to the propane tank.

It sounds like the best way to do this might be to add a T and split before the regular in the exterior accessed propane box, but this might be more effort than it's worth for something that'll only get used a handful of times.

Anyone else have any good ideas? The Buddy will get set on top of the stove if/when we use it. It would be nice to make the connections quick and easy. After all, the whole point of buying a FWC was to make camping quicker and easier and more enjoyable for the family!

 

[idahoron]

I don't know how you are routing now but what I do is open the LP cabinet and hook the

F273704 hose up to the tank. That hose is the one you use without the filter. The other end I slide the hose over the area of the rear taillight and go between the bed and the camper. Then I open the turnbuckle hole that it is near and hook it to the buddy. A guy wants to have the turnbuckle hole hoen anyway for some air circulation. The I go back out and hook a bungee cord to the door to keep it semi closed.
This is what works for me.

 

[Old Crow]

I don't know how you are routing now but what I do is open the LP cabinet and hook the
F273704 hose up to the tank. That hose is the one you use without the filter. The other end I slide the hose over the area of the rear taillight and go between the bed and the camper. Then I open the turnbuckle hole that it is near and hook it to the buddy. A guy wants to have the turnbuckle hole hoen anyway for some air circulation. The I go back out and hook a bungee cord to the door to keep it semi closed.
This is what works for me.

EXCELLENT! Thanks for posting, idahoron! That's exactly the setup I was looking at earlier today because of this thread. I remember reading somewhere that the hose that doesn't require the fuel filter is stiffer than the one that does and wondered whether it's too stiff to be routed to and through a turnbuckle hole.

In my case I prefer to use the one-pound disposables so would just carry the hose as a backup, i.e., in case I unexpectedly run out of disposables. That almost happened on our last trip West. We were camped in snow with more snow coming in and it wasn't clear we'd be able to get out the next day. If we had had to spend a day or two there we would have run out of cylinders. Fortunately, the snow stopped and we were able to drive out the next day.

 

[fireball]

The 1# bottles and the hose routed through the turnbuckle and perfectly acceptable solutions, just not quite as elegant as what I was looking for.

With the Mr. Heater on the countertop, it's a bit hectic running the 10' line around the propane cabinet and in through the turnbuckle access panel and then up the cabinetry and onto the c-top.

The 1# disposables don't last through the night so connecting to the big tank is much nicer.

That said, does anyone know the proper way to make a penetration through the propane box and into the camper? You could use that same hose and route it behind the fridge and up under the c-top. That would make hooking up the Buddy quicker and easier.

 

[LuckyDan]

My Grandby is old, but if yours is anything like mine the propane box is basically sheetmetal. The appropriate hole saw should do. To finish and re-seal the breach I'd look to the Granger catalog or the like for a bulkhead or through fitting.

Good luck with however you proceed.


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[Yukon]

Just a comment in general. I bought, and considered using a small Buddy heater when I was having troubles with the factory installed Atwood. I gave that idea up when I was advised by our local Atwood service rep that putting a high-pressure gas line "inside" a camper is pretty dangerous. If anything happens, that gas is going to fill camper pretty fast. Something to consider. I chose not to do it.

 

[Bseek]

I thought the whole point of the propane box being outside was to keep the fumes out. I wouldn't penetrate the box.

 

[fireball]

Our propane boxes are already penetrated by the line coming into the cabin.

Here is what it looks like on my 2014 Hawk:





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[K7MDL]

Propane is heavier than air and so the box is sealed to the interior, including any piping pass thru points. Vents must be located at the bottom. For marine they must be minimum of 1/2" dia - usually a tube that goes overboard. My 2013 Hawk has relatively large screened vents in the propane box floor under the propane bottle. The louvers in the outside access door allow fresh air to help flush gasses out the bottom. No problem passing piping through the propane box walls, just have to seal up the passage.

 

[PokyBro]

A little off topic, but while there is a good discussion going on about propane use and routing, I have a question. Does anyone know if the propane enclosure/ box has to be sheet metal by code, or are some enclosed in a wooden box? I have seen older campers with the wood enclosure.

Also, there was a build on WTW or possibly Expedition Portal (SLO), that showed a long 20 foot extension, to run a little portable propane fire pit to the side of the camper, running off of the main tank, using a tee. I thought that was a cool idea, no need for firewood, and yet, you get to enjoy an outside fire.

Mr Sage, thanks, that's an even better enclosure. Lightweight, no rust, no rot! Thx!


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[Wandering Sagebrush]

I will have to go out and check, but think our hard side has a poly box. I need to lock it up, so stay tuned...


edit: yup, poly.

 

[idahoron]

Just a comment in general. I bought, and considered using a small Buddy heater when I was having troubles with the factory installed Atwood. I gave that idea up when I was advised by our local Atwood service rep that putting a high-pressure gas line "inside" a camper is pretty dangerous. If anything happens, that gas is going to fill camper pretty fast. Something to consider. I chose not to do it.

If you go to a baseball game you could get hit by the ball. Or if you go to a car race the car might fly over the wall and land on you.
A lot of things can happen. If you live your life worrying about what might happen you miss the stiff that that is fun.
Those hoses are meant to be used in a tent. So I am thinking that they are tested and safe.

 

[Old Crow]

Just stopping by to attach a link to this Mr Heater Propane Accessories Installation Guide to the thread.

Good resource when searching for just the right hose assembly. Part numbers ; connector types and sizes ; available hose lengths; sub-assembly part numbers ; typical applications, etc.

I find it easier to browse than the web site.

 

[camper101]

I would also be a little freaked out about adding connections and cutting through the box. If you do cut through, it seems like higher in the box is better than lower (as somebody said propane is heavier than air, so if your seal isn't 100% you've got slightly better chances). I had the guy at the local propane shop do all of my connections - didn't trust myself. But I carry leak detector and use it occasionally.

 

[K7MDL]

You can cut a hole anywhere in the box, just seal it up, pretty easy. The picture earlier showed large washers likely used as a clamped flange, likely with sealant inside. If there was a leak, with a proper bottom vent (sufficient size) any pressure in the box would be low.

Poly boxes are quite common. My Hawk is, my boats were, an occasional fiberglass one shows up. It is not critical, just seal the edges and have a good bottom vent outside.

 

[Bill D]

You can cut a hole anywhere in the box, just seal it up, pretty easy. The picture earlier showed large washers likely used as a clamped flange, likely with sealant inside. If there was a leak, with a proper bottom vent (sufficient size) any pressure in the box would be low.

Poly boxes are quite commonly. My Hawk is, my boats were, an occasional fiberglass one shows up. It is not critical, just seal the edges and have a good bottom vent outside.

I agree. Cut anywhere, seal reasonably well and have an unobstructed egress vent on the bottom of the propane box.