Wear & Tear on your FWC?

Bombsight

Senior Member
Joined
May 4, 2015
Messages
721
Location
S.E. Texas
Where does the age show up first?

What screws rust, where did delamination occur first, which hinges needed replacing first, how long before water pump, refrigerator or furnace needed parts or replacement ... etc, etc?

A comprehensive input from everyone could help our rigs last longer and look better over time.
 
Some of the roof latches are rusting and yet others show no sign of it.Treating the rusty ones with corrosion block spray seems to help. Weather stripping is losing its profile allowing water intrusion. the worst was the front seal for the roof when its shut. Repaired by inserting a small dia. length of vacuum line into the hollow section to return it to the original shape/size. The clear plastic on the windows is shrinking, velcro barely seals at the top. If it gets any worst I have to remedy.
 
iowahiker said:
We store our camper inside but use the camper over 150 nights a year and so we have a different wear pattern than others. Meanwhile, FWC changes the design and materials routinely. Also, our camper is simple without a refrig, solar system, water system. Also, our camper was never exposed to salt. Four years and 600 nights of wear:

- After one year, we repaired the seat (couch) cushion fabric by reinforcing the inside corners.
- After three years, we replace the seat (couch) cushions. I suspect FWC does not use our fabric anymore.
- One long run of external black trim came off while traveling and was reinstalled.
- The paper covered interior wood is shedding the paper on the roof because of condensation and staining everywhere else. My understanding is FWC switched to "painted" wood.
-The camper door window seal leaked because the oem sealant did not have a continuous bead. We added caulk.
- The camper started "walking" around the truck bed as the oem turnbuckle system did not work on our slick truck bed and so we shimmed the camper against the bed wheel wells with good results.
- The camper underside needs a coat of paint because the original paint was thin which we will do when we replace the truck in another four years (our camper stays on full time). FWC uses a different wood for the underside.
- The new composite roof lift panels have a slight bend at the top hinge because of the recess cut at the hinge. My guess is they will fail after the warranty ends.

The OEM batteries are still going strong (Exide?) but we do not have a heavy electric load since we deleted the refrig and water system. The furnace is trouble free but we do not run the furnace at night (too loud). The exterior vinyl has no leaks and initially wears rapidly (break in) and then does not change. We fold the vinyl the same way for all 600 nights. The "new" one piece roof has no leaks and no screws since we have a "slick" top.

The good news: we "payed off" the camper in usage. We estimate the economic value of each travel day at $100 less $50 in expenses (coast-to-coast travel, gasoline, campground fee, park entrance fee, no food). 600 nights "earns" $30,000 while our camper cost $17,000 including sales tax and shipping. Economics was my favorite topic in college (my degree is chemical engineering) and I spent most of my career working in economics. The economic value of a travel day at $100 is low since two people would spend $200-$500+ on foreign travel or cruise ships or... The "cost" of the truck is neutral since our heavy duty 4x4 regular cab work truck cost the same or less than a Subaru SUV which is the alternate no FWC vehicle for a day hiking traveler who lives in snow country.

Our camper is simple (no refrig, no water system, no solar, no salt exposure, slick roof, stored inside) but still requires steady attention but delivers good value. We have no regrets on our choice and still feel the alternatives (class B camping vans, hardside truck campers, trailers...) all come up short compared to our rig given our purpose of camping and hiking coast-to-coast.
Wow! Awesome input. Thank you so much.
... You too Beach. Your input is what I was really hoping for since a lot of my time is spent at the beach surfing.

Keep the upkeep info. coming. I feel this could help everyone (including FWC's themselves) a LOT.
 
Use model, camper age, use environment are factors in an evaluation. My camper is 8.5 years old. Kept outside in the wet and cold Northwest. It is always on the truck. Used about 5-8 full weeks out of a year. It was bought as a Eagle shell and I did all of the inside work (cabinets, etc.)

Our rig has been very reliable. Here's a few factory item issues:

  • Had to replace the Atwood furnace at about 7 years (too many failures)
  • Roof clamps are starting to rust
  • The paint is peeling from the aluminum siding along the edge near the back door (small area). Apparently a known issue.
  • Replaced the battery at about year 5 (normal)
  • The wood trim that hold the ceiling pieces up is a bit stained and warped due to condensation and ice that forms there periodically.
That's pretty much it. For eight years of being outside, that's not bad at all. I love my camper.

Chris
 
iowahiker said:
gallery_5179_277_2109399.jpg
That photo deserves a compliment! Very nice!
 
I can't add much because my Grandby is probably older than some of you (built in 1976). And the interior was stripped and replaced by a PO before I got it. The interior was gutted and insulation, walls and ceiling were replaced due to mouse infestation.

But I can add the following:

  • The roof doesn't leak. It looks like someone went after it with a ball-pien hammer but I have found not water intrusion.
  • Still has the original soft sides. Again looks like crap and it has a number of small repairs but it doesn't leak.
  • The clear plastic 'windows' have shrunk so the velcro barely attaches in the top middle.
  • Rain was being forced in through the front between the roof and overhang when driving in the rain. A compressed rubber gasket solved that issue.
  • Front lift panels were replaced by PO. I will be replacing them this winter.
  • Rear lift panels are original (I think). The are very brittle and are delaminating. I am worried about them failing so they are to be replaced this winter.
  • After lifting the roof I support it with 2X4s so it cannot collapse. I also added 40 lb struts in the inside front, since I have 35 lb of solar panels in front.
  • All the (old style) latches have been repaired and the two front ones (has 6) were replaced by me. The four old ones are rusty but still work.
  • I have had to rebuild the door as it rotted on the bottom from the (old style) rear window leaking. The window leak was also fixed.
  • The main floor is still original with no protective coating on the underside. PO installed linoleum covering the whole floor inside. The floor is soft; I would not dare step into the camper with the floor unsupported.
  • One corner of the floor about 8" diameter was rotted where the rear door leaked. It was repaired with Minwax Wood Hardener. Holding up OK.
  • The camper is not air tight. I think it is the louver windows. I do not get any water intrusion, even in driving rain.
  • The aluminum sides look old, have a number of scrapes and patches; but again no leaks.
  • Some of the edging has been replaced with aluminum angle.
  • I have an old (1982) Norcold refrigerator. Still keeps things cold. Uses > 40 AH per day (25 AH in 70ºF). I added 36 sq.in. of forced air ventilation in the back and it helped a lot.
  • I do not have a water system, furnace, stove, or sink, so I cannot comment on those.

jim
 
Yukon said:
Use model, camper age, use environment are factors in an evaluation. My camper is 8.5 years old. Kept outside in the wet and cold Northwest. It is always on the truck. Used about 5-8 full weeks out of a year. It was bought as a Eagle shell and I did all of the inside work (cabinets, etc.)

Our rig has been very reliable. Here's a few factory item issues:

  • Had to replace the Atwood furnace at about 7 years (too many failures)
  • Roof clamps are starting to rust
  • The paint is peeling from the aluminum siding along the edge near the back door (small area). Apparently a known issue.
  • Replaced the battery at about year 5 (normal)
  • The wood trim that hold the ceiling pieces up is a bit stained and warped due to condensation and ice that forms there periodically.
That's pretty much it. For eight years of being outside, that's not bad at all. I love my camper.

Chris
Totally agree with Chris...as is often the case an issue with a FWC is discussed without stating the model [with options listed], year, amount of use, how stored and in what environment was it used...without this basis there can't be an accurate comparison or discussion of issues. Often just apples vs oranges.

Oh...that photo is awesome...where was it taken?

Phil
 
Wallowa said:
Totally agree with Chris...as is often the case an issue with a FWC is discussed without stating the model [with options listed], year, amount of use, how stored and in what environment was it used...without this basis there can't be an accurate comparison or discussion of issues. Often just apples vs oranges.

Oh...that photo is awesome...where was it taken?

Phil
My intent wasn't to compare year models or others wear to others ... although stating year model and what it is subjected to should be stated. The purpose of this thread is to maybe let others know what to look for and compensate for ahead of time. It might save somebody a lot of headache and money.
 
On my 2014 Eagle I've had the front lift panel and the co/propane detector replaced. Since my camper is on full time and I part outside the roof is hail pocked but doesn't leak.


Charlie

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Squatch said:
I'm noticing the vinyl window shrinkage as well on my 2012 Eagle. I need to put a coat of paint on the wood bottom. I don't think that has been done since new.
How long have we known about the window shrinkage and has FWC's done anything to compensate (make 'em about an inch bigger) since discovery?
I'm thinking about x-lining the bottom of my Hawk. Cant see where it could hurt other than always needing a rubber mat under it. Planned on always using a super thin one anyway.
 
Bombsight said:
How long have we known about the window shrinkage and has FWC's done anything to compensate (make 'em about an inch bigger) since discovery?
I'm thinking about x-lining the bottom of my Hawk. Cant see where it could hurt other than always needing a rubber mat under it. Planned on always using a super thin one anyway.

What about using the Rhino or Line-X spray on inside the bed of the truck? We have had it since the truck ['05 Tundra] was new; works great for securing the Hawk. Again when we bought our Hawk in 2-16 a rubber mat under the Hawk was not recommended by FWC.

Shrinking of clear vinyl window covers [sealed by Velcro] is new one on me...perhaps they have developed folds or wrinkles due to folding when top is lowered? That could pull them away from the Velcro. Crimping of these is an issue depending on how the fabric folds down and if it catches these plastic windows against a hard surface such as the top of the passenger side high narrow cabinets above the side window, or dinette in our case. Arctic Pack insulation adds to this problem. Our right rear window ['16 Hawk] gets wrinkled when it get sandwiched along with vinyl siding and Arctic Pack material between the top of that cabinet and the end board as it comes down and is latched.

Phil
 
I copied this from the fourwh.com website.
-Service -Used Camper Support

It's a pretty good indictor of what to expect to maintain.



USED CAMPER CHECK LIST — BASIC THINGS TO LOOK FOR:
Check to make sure all of the roof screws are tight, if not hand tighten them and re-seal them with a dab of marine grade silicone once you get the camper home. Note: ALL of the newer FWC’s have a one piece, no seam, no screw roof, so you won’t have to worry about re-sealing the roof attachment screws on new Four Wheel Campers.
Check to make sure the roof does not have any holes or tears in the exterior aluminum roof skin (from trees or misc. items poking through it over the years).
Check the soft sides (pop-up up portion) of the camper for unusual wear, tears, or large holes. If there are just small pin holes, those are pretty easy to seal up or patch if needed. Our service department sells patch kits as needed.
Check the inside of the camper roof (head liner) for rips or tears, stains from possible leaks, or for mold.
Check the front and back wooden folding panels (hinged panels that allow the roof to go up & down). Check to see that the rivets are intact and that the wood is not rotten or wet. Note: The newer FWC’s use a black composite folding lift panel in the front & rear of the campers.
Take a look at the aluminum skin all the way around the outside of the camper. Check for scrapes or punctures.
Check the exterior wooded camper base (usually it is painted grey) for any abnormalities.
Check the camper tie down eye nuts in the camper base (outside of camper) to see if they have been over-tightened or might be pulling away / pulling out / crooked or bent. If you do find a bent eye nut, don’t worry, it can usually be easily replaced. Note: the newer FWC’s use a 3 bolt, stainless steel tie down brackets on the camper base. You won’t have to worry about checking these for potential fatigue on the newest FWC’s.
Check the propane box and see if everything looks as it should. Not many things to go wrong with this.
If possible, have the seller turn on items inside & outside of the camper for you.
Example: see if the lights work, see if the furnace lights, see if the refrigerator lights, see if the water pump turns on, etc.
This might not always be possible, but it is always good to poke around and play with things in the camper for a few minutes if you have the opportunity.
Check to see if they have the keys for the rear camper door.
Check to see if the camper jacks look solid and not too bent.
Check to see if the awning cranks (or manually pulls) in & out properly.
Check to see if the roof vent opens and closes and does not have any cracks in the vent lid.
But the best thing to do is just spend a few minutes looking over the camper, sitting inside, and see if you feel comfortable.
Does it look like the owner of the camper has taken care or the camper ?
Or is it abused and beaten on ?
Has the seller made any attempt to clean the camper out and make it look presentable for the new buyer ?
Will the camper fit your truck properly?
Check the used camper camper fit guide here … “Used Camper Fit Guide“.
If we were looking to buy a used camper for someone on our staff, we would probably look at the following items above, and then just sit inside the camper for a few minutes and ask ourselves things like … “Will I be comfortable camping in this camper? Does it look nice inside ? Is it clean, or just dirty & gross?”
Or, when you are sitting in the camper, are you telling yourself … “Hey, this camper is pretty nice. It is clean. It looks to be well taken care of. Yes, I would probably be very happy & comfortable camping in this camper!”.
 
Bombsight, I have no idea if the window shrinkage is a big picture problem or just isolated. I have 2 windows I have to stretch pretty good to make the Velcro meet well.

I intend to use this to coat the bottom of my camper and the platform I built to set it on. This product is very similar to Herculiner but is water based and doesn't sun fade nearly as quickly. It has the ground up car tire in the mixture. It's made for a marine environment. I coated the topsides of my bass boat with it 10 years ago and it still looks good.
http://tuffcoat.net/





I hope to get this done as soon as it warms up in the spring.

My truck has line X in the bed. Good stuff but awful expensive to have the camper done with it.
 
Squatch said:
Bombsight, I have no idea if the window shrinkage is a big picture problem or just isolated. I have 2 windows I have to stretch pretty good to make the Velcro meet well.

I intend to use this to coat the bottom of my camper and the platform I built to set it on. This product is very similar to Herculiner but is water based and doesn't sun fade nearly as quickly. It has the ground up car tire in the mixture. It's made for a marine environment. I coated the topsides of my bass boat with it 10 years ago and it still looks good.
http://tuffcoat.net/
Thanks, Squatch.
I'll definitely look into that product because I really didn't want to spend $300-$600 on X-lining the bottom.
 
* Already, the board under my side dinette seats edge has peeled away because of its premature split. More than likely due to insufficient amount of adhesive.

* I'm seeing considerable oxidation on the tension tabs of the rear roof access steps.

* I had to remove all of the running lights and put black silicone between lights, seals and camper wall to keeps water out of lights and camper. Found 2 holes holding lights in place stripped upon installation.

* Had to re-glue main rear door seal back in place. Poor adhesive by seal manufacturer. More than likely will have to do it again somewhere else along it.
 
Bombsight said:
* Already, the board under my side dinette seats edge has peeled away because of its premature split. More than likely due to insufficient amount of adhesive.

* I'm seeing considerable oxidation on the tension tabs of the rear roof access steps.

* I had to remove all of the running lights and put black silicone between lights, seals and camper wall to keeps water out of lights and camper. Found 2 holes holding lights in place stripped upon installation.

* Had to re-glue main rear door seal back in place. Poor adhesive by seal manufacturer. More than likely will have to do it again somewhere else along it.
Use a hair dryer, heated right up and ove glove to press tight. Two minute fix. jd

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longhorn1 said:
Use a hair dryer, heated right up and ove glove to press tight. Two minute fix. jd

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It split too much to repair. I taped the edges and rubber coated the problem area. Most likely will have to do the entire edge.
 

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We had our first season in a 1997 Eagle. Overall, not bad at all!

Cosmetics:
Paper wood grain is peeling in several areas of the cabinetry.
Some roof screws show a little rust.

Functional:
The 3-way refer will not stay lit on propane when it's windy or on the road.
The water system needs to be gone through - brown scum is visible in the connecting tubing.
Pinholes here and there in the tent fabric - but they don't really leak at all. Bought some sealer to apply.
WHEN the top is down, minor roof leakage in two spots. Water seeps between the tent and outside trim. When the top is up, that's exterior. When it's down, the water is trapped in the folds of the tent. Fixed one side by repairing the PO's roofing tape fix for a branch ding. Will get on the other side when the weather warms up... by recaulking (no branch ding there).

That's it! IMHO not bad at all for a 20 year old camper. 2 cosmetic issues, 2 maintenance issues, 2 that relate to the tent material and installation. I could only wish FWC had used a different surface finish for cabinets, and was more consistent in caulking/sealing the roof/tent seam. As I understand it, both these issues have been addressed in manufacturing.


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Bombsight said:
It split too much to repair. I taped the edges and rubber coated the problem area. Most likely will have to do the entire edge.

Pictures? I forgot, what year is your FWC?

Thanks,

Phil
 

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